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P0A80 Code- but is it really the hybrid battery

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Mellyman666, Mar 9, 2024.

  1. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    Alright well half of that is already done; my hybrid battery is currently 'exposed' (the metal cover isnt off, just the plastic one is) because I had removed and cleaned the blower fan. I will look into this option; thank you!
     
  2. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    And normally when you do this does the code PA080 go away or will I need to remove it and just pray it doesn't come back? Like how can I test to see if I actually did it properly (if I do go ahead and recondition it myself). I'm just worried since I have continued to drive with the PA080 light on (albeit 4 weeks it just never came back on) as this is my only car, so I'm worried I'll buy the kit and for X reason it won't work (cause I keep seeing everyone everywhere saying you need to stop using car immediately with PA080 etc etc
     
  3. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    I have no experience with trying to recondition a battery with a P0A80 code and also a Delta SOC like you have. I also have not read about anybody doing it. If I were you, I would call Hybrid Automotive and ask them if they think a reconditioning will fix your problem or not.

    The 4 charges and 3 discharge cycles take me 4 to 5 days to complete.

    Did you ask the battery shop that is local to you if they can do this process and how much it would cost?
     
  4. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    I've reached out to a few and still waiting for some answers, so far don't have any place that does; will give them a call tomorrow as I emailed them because I worked all day. I will also reach out to hybrid automotive. I found an independent dude who does them on facebook so might check that out. Also looking for used prolong kits. Cause if I will need a new one at 650$+, I think for the extra 400$, I'd buy a refurbished battery with a warranty... Am just looking to prolong this car for another few years
     
  5. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    A new Prolong deluxe system is $719US +shipping. I know that sounds expensive, but you can always sell it used on eBAY when you are done with it and recoup some of the cost.
     
  6. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    How many times do you want to replace the battery?
    So it has a warranty, "when" it fails, how long before they come to change it?
    How long will your down time be? Where will you be when it fails.

    All they do with "refurbished" batteries is find "ok" modules and stick them together
    and run the prolong system on it, or some similar system.

    Either buy a NEW pack and forget about it for a decade or so, or "invest" in the Prolong system.
    Since you just want to be able to use the car for a few more years, it's probably the best
    and most cost effective thing to do.

    If you watch it, you can do the complete cycles in 3 days. Each portion takes about 3-5 each.
    I don't know exactly, because I only checked it every few hours. The final charge should be longer
    because it's the final balancing of all the modules.

    It's your car, and your money...

     
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  7. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    Thank you for the input.
    I am going to call the prolong system place and ask if my car is a candidate albeit the delta soc of 35.50% (today's reading).

    I appreciate the input and advice
     
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  8. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    When I did my life expectancy test on Dr Prius, it told me my battery was at 40%. When you used the Prolong system frequently, was the battery at a high 'life expectancy'? Asking because I'm wondering if the fact that it's at 40% will mean that it will 'recondition' less or something like that
     
  9. Carall

    Carall Member

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    If your battery pack does not have modules with a voltage below 7 volts then there are at least 2 very weak modules in the battery pack. Doing a life expectancy test while delta soc is above 0% is a waste of time.
    Your battery needs to be checked and... possibly repaired.
     
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  10. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    I did my first HV battery reconditioning using the Prolong deluxe system in July 2021. I only did two discharging cycles because i did not have time to do the third cycle. My battery life expectancy was 60 to 68% capacity left in the 6 months' time frame before I did the reconditioning. It was 68 to 70% of the capacity left two months after doing the reconditioning, so I did not see much change.

    I did my second battery reconditioning in February 2022, third in February 2023, and fourth in February 2024 (all with three discharge cycles). I did not keep records of the before and after life expectancy test between these times. The battery meter on the dash was very stable (no fast charging or discharge shown) during those years, which indicates a good HV battery. The last test I did was in March of this year (7 weeks after the last battery reconditioning), and it had 102% capacity left (not the 104% that I wrote earlier).

    The HV battery reconditioning will increase the life expectancy values in the test, but for how long in your case is unkonown. That is why I was hoping that you could find a shop in your area that can do this service for a reasonable cost so you could try it without buying a grid charger and discharger.

    Edit: You can build your own grid charger and wire harness yourself if you want to:Build Hybrid Battery Maintenance Gear For Under $100 | PriusChat
     
    #110 Brian1954, Apr 14, 2024
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2024
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  11. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    @jeff652 , can you please read this thread and comment if you think a HV battery reconditioning will help the OP battery that has a delta SOC and is occasionally triggering P0A80 trouble code. Thank you!
     
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  12. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    Hey,

    Just read the thread. It is a weird problem. I don't know for sure if a reconditioning cycle would help, but I do know it wouldn't hurt. But it's pretty understandable not wanting to buy an expensive tool that might not work. So what you could do that might be cheaper is buy just the grid charger and harness that the guys are talking about. That should be around $400-$450. Charge and balance the battery; that might lower your delta SOC, I really don't know for sure though. If it does, you might be on the right track. If it looks like that will work, then I would definitely buy a discharger after that and see if the full reconditioning process (4 charges and 3 discharges) solves the issue. Then you have the full set to keep the battery healthy for later. It might cost you a bit more in the end (because of individual shipping costs) then if you just buy the charger, discharger and harness in one pack, but if it doesn't fix anything, then you're not out $750+.

    Here is the link for just the Charger and Harness:
    Prolong Battery Charger – Hybrid Automotive

    Here is for the Discharger alone:
    Prolong Battery Discharger – Hybrid Automotive

    And here is the whole set, just so you have it.
    Prolong Deluxe Reconditioning Package – Hybrid Automotive

    Hope this helps!

    Garrett
     
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  13. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    Thank you all for your help!!
    Was able to get the battery out today, cause I have a 3 day long weekend before needing the car again.
    If worse comes to worse I need a little extra time, a friend will lend me their car but I thought I’d start with cleaning the bus bars and all that or whatever I can do in a weekend, and see if it helps. read a bit on cleaning or replacing the bus bars. Any other « fast fixes » I can do while having it out?

    I called the Prolong company as suggested @Brian1954 and the worker told me he really wasn’t sure that the system would work with a delta soc so high and recommended taking it apart to have a closer look (the garages around here were quoting me 400$+ to look at the battery).
    I’m hoping I can advance somewhat on the weekend as I would ideally like it to be somewhat fixed by Monday lol don’t feel like putting it back in and then taking it back out but I guess that may need to happen for me to do all these different tests.
     

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  14. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    I manually tested my modules last night with a volt meter (not under load) and a few were under 7(6.50 and 6.75). Is it recommended to change all below 7?
    My little plates holding the modules together on the bus bar were VERY dirty so I'm hoping cleaning those up or changing them may get rid of the code, as the majority of my modules were 6.8 and above
     
  15. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    I was watching a gentleman on Youtube explain the whole hybrid battery and he was saying that it happens quite frequently that very dirty bus bar plates will throw P0A80 codes. So far, all my modules are in relatively good health (will post pic with all their voltages). My dad will clean all my bus bar plates and bolts with electrolysis. I need to clean some of the bolts coming out of the modules as they also have corrosion, and some of the battery wires with the little metal lopp on the end are also corroded (do I just clean these with vinegar and baking soda as them recommend for the bus bar plates?) Then I'm hoping that if I put it all back together it might solve the issue before checking if not if I should change modules.

    Perhaps a dumb question but anyone have a thread or a good youtube vid on how exactly to test each module individually (I heard an under load test is best, but how can I do that if I don't have any special machine?)

    Again, can't thank you guys enough
     
  16. Carall

    Carall Member

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    a few... the majority...
    Could you post a list of the voltages on each module?
    When you measure the voltage, make sure that the contact is good on the multimiter leads, otherwise the voltage will be low.
    .
     
  17. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    Yeah I didn't have the battery in front of me at that point so my explination was shit lol

    So I tested the voltage last night about 30 mins after taking the battery out. I do not remember how charged my battery appeared on the dash but it never fulls 100%. Also I did some research and from what I find on Prius chat, the gen 3's module identification is reverse from the gen 2 one, so in this post, block 1 is the one closest to the ECU.
    Last night, with a non numericc volt meter, here are my results (that's all I had on hand), I got these numbers (rough estimates since it isn't numeric. Then, this morning, probably around 16h after battery is disconnected, I used a numeric volt meter and got the results in the bracket. (So number out of bracket=last night with non numeric, number in bracket in bold font=this morning with numeric volt meter).


    Block 1: 1-6.75 (8.14)
    2:6.75 (8.13)

    Block 2: 1: 6.8(8.14)
    2: 6.8 (8.12)

    Block 3: 1: 6.9 (8.14)
    2:6.75 (8.14)

    Block 4: 1. 7 (8.16)
    2: 7 (8.14)

    Block 5: 1-7 (8.13)
    2:7.1(8.16)

    Block 6: 1: 7.1(8.15)
    2: 7 (8.15)

    Block 7: 1: 7.1 (8.14)
    2:6.9(8.13)

    Block 8: 1. 7.1 (8.12)
    2: 7.1 (8.12)

    Block 9: 1-7.1 (8.14)
    2: 6.95(8.15)

    Block 10: 1: 7.1(8.15)
    2: 7.1 (8.11)

    Block 11: 1: 7.1 (8.11)
    2: 7.1 (8.11)

    Block 12: 1. 7.25 (8.14)
    2: 7.25 (8.14)

    Block 13: 1-7.1 (8.13)
    2: 7.1 (8.12)

    Block 14: 1: 7(8.13)
    2: 7.1 (8.13)


    My questions:
    1. is the difference from last night to this morning normal? I had read somewhere that the voltage changes the longer it's out of the car, so is it normal? Was it just cause my other volt meter wasn't precise enough?
    2. What's the easiest way to do a load test if I know very little of electronics and don't havce any special tools on hand? Is it even doable?
    3. How can I was the ends of the battery where I put the leads to test the voltage? They have some corrosion on them as well. I'll attach some pics in next post.

    On the prius app, when it wasn't being super weird, block 11 always seemed fishy and more reactive as well as lower than the others. I noticed today it also has a lower voltage.... is it bad enough to change block 11?

    Thank you again!
     
  18. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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  19. Carall

    Carall Member

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    Your battery is a 2010 (possibly made in 2009) with only 80k miles on it. This battery is a good candidate for reсonditioning if it has not been used throughout its life in city traffic.
    In many of your screenshots published earlier, it is clear that the voltage on block 11 is lower than the others, but in one screenshot (apparently taken during acceleration) it is clear that block 7 is also weak. I see that 2 modules in these two blocks need to be replaced, they are causing the 35% delta soc.
    A little over a year ago I had fixed a battery on a 2010 Prius with 187k miles on it. The only code was P0A080. Having replaced 1 obviously bad module everything looked fine, delta soc was 0%, but when I began discharging it through the dr. prius app delta soc rose to 33%. As a result, two more modules were replaced. The owner said that as soon as the battery is repaired he will sell his prius, but he still drives it.

    As I see it, you need to replace 2 weak modules in block 7 and in block 11. In order to find out which of those 2 modules is weak, you can use a car halogen light bulb using one or 2 filaments (i use 2 filaments) and load with it the modules for one minute and compare the residual voltage of tested modules, or you can connect a multimeter in parallel with the light bulb and see what the voltage will be in a minute on the module under load. It may be enough for the battery to sit for several days and the voltage will show which modules are weak.
    Finding out which modules are bad in the entire battery is useless. In current condition of the battery most of them will be bad, but after using the prolong system the picture will change significantly.

    The main step in repairing this battery is to use the Prolong system. The easiest way is to buy a charger and harness for $429.00.
    I wouldn’t go the RC chargers route. You won’t get the desired result and you’ll be disappointed in the end.
    Having used the Prolong system on this battery, you can sell it, but if you are not going to sell your Prius, then it is better to keep it, since it will be needed again. It was necessary to use the Prolong system for the first time when the battery was no more than 10 years old. In a battery condition like yours, I would discharge it below 84 volts.
    You will need ~5 days to use the prolong system. After one cycle (below 84 volts), the battery will already become better. By installing the harness into your prius, the other 2 cycles can be done over the weekends.

    You can build a discharger yourself.
    Go to a hardware store and get 2 E27 lamp bases. Also buy 2 120v 40 watt incandescent lamps. You'll have to buy those online i guess nowadays. Mount 2 lamp bases on a piece of wood connecting them in series. You'll get ~350mA of discharging current with this set up.

    Since this is your only car, the only way is to put the battery back and drive, but the sooner the repair is done, the better for the battery. So far there are no modules with a bad cell in your battery, but this can happen at any time with one of these weak modules, and another weak module may appear if you drive like this.

    If you have a place to buy good modules locally, then it’s better to change these 2 bad ones now and then use the prolong system.
    A healthy module should not discharge below 7.7 volts after 3 months without using it.
     

    Attached Files:

    #119 Carall, Apr 21, 2024
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2024
  20. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    Hi!

    Thanks for your response!!
    Okay that reassures me a little about the delta soc!!

    I actually bought a 12v battery tester to load test the cells (as that's one of the methods I found online) and before reading this I was about to load test each module. Should I no longer do that? My battery tester discharges anywhere from 25 to 500 amps, I saw on several youtube videos and threads on PriusChat that I should apply between 50-100amps and see how long it takes to discharge to around 6.5v. Is doing this the same as the light bulb test you're referring to?

    Also, might sound dumb, but in the event that it would take me a long time to get modules online, would putting the battery back together and driving it (with same modules, only difference at this point would be cleaned bus bar plates, no more corrosion anywhere) a short while while I wait for both the prolong system and modules to arrive, be a TERRIBLE idea? I drive about 150km a week but have no second car. I red where you mentiioned only solution would be putting it back together but want to make sure we're on the same page that if I put it back together before getting the materials, I'm putting it back in the same state it came out as.

    It's been about 1.5-2 months I'm driving with this check engine light and triangle of death. I would definetly change the modules before using prolong if that's what you suggest! I have a week vacation in a month so could do the charge and discharge on those days.

    I'll wait for your input before load testing each module, as you are clearly much more experienced then me lol

    Also, is it normal the voltages change on the modules ever since taking it out around 32h ago? I planned on rechecking voltage just before load testing each one this morning. If I put it back in before changing modules, it would only be later this week as I was able to borrow my dad's car for the next few days.

    Again, thank you so much!