Brake Light, ABS Light & Traction Control Light are on

Full disclosure: it's a Lexus CT200H. Customer Support Program 21LE01. Sorry to get anyone's hopes up, thought maybe Toyota would be doing the same thing.

 

Escalation to Toyota was a dead end.
Time to visit our independent repair people.

The 2012 PiP was my last Prius. I think I've personally bought 5 of them over the years.
They were ahead of the pack in 2005-2010.
The Prius is probably still the most efficient hybrid out there.
Roomy and lots of cargo room.
They lost me on the Prius Prime.

But I've moved on to electric now, and Toyota doesn't have a compelling product in that category.

Time for a glass of wine.

 

Pulling out all of the connections, my wife was able to get 15% off the bill for the failing parts, without the typical $ amount cap. So that helped ease the pain of just missing the cutoff.

Why don't they prorate the warranty down from the last 6 to 12 months so there isn't a sudden cliff in money you lose if you are just barely over the edge? I think people would "feel" better when they just missed the cutoff as they would be just missing a smaller amount. Perhaps go from 9.5 yrs to 10.5 yrs with a 10% decrease every month after 9.5 yrs?

Other than that the car has been trouble free. All of our Priuses have been really reliable. Although now that I think of it, two of them started burning oil at the 150,000 mile mark (I think this is not uncommon). But still, that is a lot of miles of carefree ownership.

 

I had a bearing go bad last month (on a 5,000-mile road trip, of course). Press it out with 2 or 3 long bolts and nuts. Hammer out a couple of the wheel studs, stick bolts through, thread nuts on, stick spare washers between the bolt and knuckle/brake shield so you don't chew them up, then cinch the nuts to the hub flange and keep tightening to press it out. 20 minutes, done.

 

That's more than I'm comfortable doing. Nice job!

 

2012 Prius. I forget the code but it was sensor left rear. I replaced the hub and sensor unit but it didn’t change anything. Same dash lights. Any other suggestions?

 

I just keep two gen three front arms on the floor with new hubs ball joints and whatnot on them and when it's time slap them on put the new stuff on the ones I took out leave them over in the corner for the next go round I try not to run them until they're grading and making metal to metal sounding noises not interested in having to do this on the side of the road.

 

My mother has a 2011 Prius and all the brake lights are on (ABS, traction control, etcetera). When I open the driver-side door and/or when the vehicle is running, there is a buzzing noise that is heard, and repeats. According to my automotive instructor, it turns out it is the accumulator pump, which commonly fails around 125k miles, according to reports on ProDemand. What's happening is there is an internal leak, and the pump keeps trying to build brake pressure, which is that buzzing noise that the pump is making, but since there is an internal component that has gone bad, it loses brake pressure, thus the pump will activate again, over and over, which I believe is the buzzing noise that it makes. Neither the ABS nor traction control will work when this fails, and brake pressure will be rather spongy. Also, the brake booster assembly could be faulty too, so it may be a combination of both.

What happened with my mother's Prius was that when the pump started to slowly fail, all of a sudden all her brake lights came on and she lost some brake pressure, but then things would randomly go back to normal. However, as time went by the pump just completely failed and continues to fail to build and hold proper brake pressure.

I used an OBD reader and error code c1391 came up. Also, on the OEM section on ProDemand, part of the directions says to use the OBD and activate the ECB Solenoid (SMC/SRC/SCC); I did that and afterward all the brake lights disappeared and brake pressure returned to normal. However, the accumulator still continues to activate like it has before, so it's only a matter of time until the brake pressure has leaked enough that it will be where it was before I did the solenoid activation.

Anyways, I hope this helps someone. It's a costly fix to repair, and is a bunch of work, because a good amount of parts have to be removed just to get to the accumulator. These two videos will give you a visual on what you just read, and how to repair/replace the parts:

 

Yes as you see the same thing has been posted many times this is generally how it goes pretty much the story The pump isn't failing there's an internal leak in the pump is running to try and satisfy the pressure requirement which it can never do because of the internal leak yep exactly and that's why most places want to replace both of those parts so they get the internal leak and the worn out constantly running pump all at one time replaced so they have a good chance of a solid repair lasting through warranty etc and there's always that.