Gearing up to replace my 2007 Prius HV Battery with a brand new one.

No this sounds relatively reasonable given the fact that even at 88,000 you're about over the 10 years or 8 to 10 in normal hybrid battery last so you're in the realm of good thinking we've done this two or three times now You could play games with the battery if you wanted to and replace the modules in the block you're dealing with but personally like for my flashlight when it's time for batteries we go to the store and get new ones not try to refurbish or play with the old ones. Seems to work well. Once you do drop that in you're good to go and your batteries the least of your worries for a while. Where you found the water sitting in the 12 volt tray You need to take the 12 volt out of there for a minute and feel around there's some rubber plugs that you need to just push down on and they'll fall down into nowhere but will create a water pass through I've even drilled a few extra quarter inch holes in places where I put my garden hose in the water would still stand even with the plugs removed so when I got finished when I run my garden hose and turn it off now all the water passes right through that battery tray in the winter that water standing would freeze and ruin the battery I also did the same thing on the other side where the tool container goes where the battery is on the driver side but there's not a battery there same plugs few extra holes drilled water passes through under the spare tire right under the HV battery but in the spare tire well there's another plug push your finger through it let it fall on the ground If you must retrieve it just throw it in the spare tire weld and let it roll around now water will come in but it will pass through and cause you no grief I do this to all of my Prius generation 2 and 3 included have both models here on the property.

 

You could look at the freezeframe data for the P3018, or clear codes then monitor only block voltages and pack amps with that snap on scantool and go for a drive.

If you see that block 8 is about 1.0 to 1.5 V lower than the other blocks when accelerating (discharging at high amps) that's the "nail in the coffin" indicating that a cell in a module has failed. That same block will go higher than the others when decelerating (charging at high amps).

If you want to DIY the replacement, study the procedure - factory service manual and youtube. Use caution (and gloves) around high voltage. Torque all HV connections to spec (48 INCH-pounds) with a torque wrench. Take lots of pictures at every step for reference. Inspect the orange connector socket and pins on the battery ecu for corrosion - could be dull black or green stuff (bad) instead of gold (good).

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You also get an extra year warranty on the battery because they installed it.

For me the calculation went the other way, I wasn't going to pay $600 for something I knew I could do myself. Well, with a little help from my son to lug the battery around, as it is pretty heavy and is really awkward and bulky when it is in its shipping coffin. The only special tool I had to buy was a small beam torque wrench for use in the in-lb range, and that was on sale for $20 at Autozone. Piece of crap tool though, the beam bent after a couple of usages. The same wrench seems to be sold under different names at other auto parts stores. At least they look identical, other than the labeling.

https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/torque-wrench/p/performance-tool-1-4in-drive-0-80-in-lbs-torque-wrench/752621_0_0?searchText=torque+wrench

 

Try letting the car charge up the battery and then clearing the code. If it comes back within a week, go ahead and replace the battery.