Gen3 warming up stages

You can always put the car in B Mode at red lights or coming up to stop signs in the "warm up phase only" to force the ICE to run until it hits S3 above 140 degrees temp, then run in normal "D" mode (especially in colder climates or if your front door is next to a busy street where you need to gun the engine to move into fast traffic. Also, a dash gauge run by OBDII like Ultra Guage or the like wouldn't hurt so you watch the temps.

 

Hello Ken1784,
I realize these posts are over 13 years old, but hopefully I can ask you a question relative to the warmup cycles, relative to my 2011 prius US model, relative to the fact that my hybrid battery has good cells that have over 200,000 miles on them, the dealer I bought the car from a few years ago removed some bad cells, relative to my cleaning of my busbars, relative to my use of nexcell regeneration systems, and the fact that my hybrid battery does not hold charges very well overnight and I have learned to move slowly for at least 50 yards while stopping repeatedly to use the braking regeneration to bring up the battery charge above two bars after most startups when my engine and inverter Temps are likely not very warm. I plan on replacing my hybrid battery because I'm having to do all of this to prevent the code P0A80 from happening. I'm retired and am delaying replacement while seeking to fully understand as much about my inverter as possible due to the possibility that the age and milage on my inverter could be a problem even though I have not registered any of the failure codes associated with the known problems with the gen 3 that caused Toyota to provide at least a 15 year warranty. So, Ken can you confirm that my use of braking regeneration is one of my only options until I replace the battery? And, Ken can you help me determine if my inverter is likely ok?(I have a functioning pump, but should find a way to flush the inverter besides draining and refilling it because I don't know the time or milage since the inverter coolant was changed) And, Ken can you comment on the use of a nexcell LiFeP04 replacement battery? I have viewed threds from prius owners who have made the change, and technical threds that show that type of battery is able to fit well with the needs of my 2011 and my inverter. I did have to have my head gasket replaced, but everything was good, and I do get the codes that come from misfires that happen because my EGR system is dirty. So far I have been depending on system cleaners to make sure the misfires are occasional and have used a catalytic converter cleaner that helped also. I have a known oil leak at the pan gasket, and also in the oil pressure sending device. Temporarily I have added a two part oil stop leak to my 0W 40 mobil 1 synthetic oil, and this seems to have stopped the slight drops in oil level even over a recent 700 mile highway trip. Other than mpg results that are not as good as before general functionality of my Prius is manageable until I make the effort to pull some savings out to purchase the new battery!! Thanks for reading my long winded writing! I hope the Japanese translation will be ok! Thanks for being a person who cares and is very helpful to so many of us prius enthusiasts all over the world !!!+

 

Okay, you need paragraphs.... Everything blends together and it makes it very hard to read.

 

Ok...here's the synopsis; gen 3 over 200,000, original battery with a few bad cells already replaced, no inverter codes, just P0A80 when the old battery is low after it sits hours and cools down....unless I use brake regeneration short stops in about the first 50 yards, inverter coolant flows, needs changing, I want to flush the inverter, Toyota charges 199, Toyota uses the in and out hoses at the radiator to pressure flush, flushing chemicals probably ok, I'm not sure what to try.
I plan on replacing the hybrid battery with a nexcell LiFeP04 in about 2 months. I have seen posts that show it does a great job. I have to make sure the inverter is fine. I want to do my own work to save money.

 

It has a drain plug (there's a couple good videos on Youtube) on how to do it then "burp" the system upon refill. It's fairly easy if you have basic mechanical skills. $200 is outrageous when you see how easy it is.

 

best thing on a cold day. start the engine, set your seat belt, connect your bluetooth, choose the right track, song or radio channel, turn the lights on if not on auto, side mirrors. 3 minutes warm up and drive lol

 

In those three minutes your MPG is zero.

 

My ultra gauge shows 0.01 gallons used from crank over to first shut down. I'd take that over a premature head gasket failure any day.

 

cool