Kilowatt

Googling produces 13.6 kWh for the battery capacity of the 2024 Prime, vs. 8.8 kWh for the earlier Prime.

How much you put in when you charge it can be a bit more or less (more, from charging losses; less, if it wasn't at 0% when you started, or if it has lost some capacity with age).

 

That's about 60% of an 8.8 kWh battery.

I wonder how much capacity the 2017 Prime likes to retain when it tells you zero.

 

2017 Prius Prime's EPA-rated electric range is 25 miles.

FWIW, as a reference point on a different Toyota PHEV, my new RAV4 Prime uses about 60% of its battery capacity for EV range, according to Toyota's mobile app. I.e. when 'full', the app lists 100% charge, when EV range drops to 0 miles, the app lists about 40% charge (or slightly less), and I have noticed the charge dipping down to 31% during hybrid-mode function. Though beware, I haven't yet determined how this smartphone app scales its battery charge readout. In past threads, other tools and measures have used different scales of what 0% and 100% mean, i.e. with or without margins set aside for safety and aging.

 

Using Hybrid Assistant to view the battery's SoC, the car switches from EV to Hybrid mode at 15% and stops charging at 85%, so 70% of the battery, which on a 8.8 kWh battery, is 6.16 kWh. As a battery degrades over time, you'll get less capacity and might explain why you're only putting 5.3 to 5.8 kWh (including charger and converter loss) into a 6.16 kWh battery capacity.

 

Sorry, don't take this the wrong way, but you can NEVER get the traction battery to ZERO. You're ECU holds back a set reserve capacity, so the car can continue to run in HV mode. If you change your MID display to the one with a battery status symbol, you'll be able to see that. When the ECU kicks the car over to HV mode, your running like a "normal" Prius with a full charge. No-one can give you the answer your seeking unless you can tell us EXACTLY how much total battery you've left over when you plugged in. At that point it's simple math.

Please re-read your operators manual of your car.

 

You are reading correctly, but assuming your cable display is accurate. There is variation from other factors, I see it also. Heat maybe or I don’t know what. There isn’t much can be done about it.
As you see, you have a wide variation, so it isn’t a precision measurement, and the battery degrades steadily, not up and down from 5.3-5.8 session to session. I guess take the highest value and go with that as what it is until a higher number is seen.

 

Plus .... you have loss going in (converting from AC to DC battery) and going out (converting DC battery to AC) .... maybe 10%.
.

 

By "zero", I presumed that he meant "0 EV miles" remaining, which is very different from the whole traction battery being at zero charge.

We should also note that "0 EV miles" is not a single point on the battery charge scale, but could be anywhere on the hybrid-only portion of the battery scale, which is below the EV-operating portion of the sale. So it would be no surprise to see a significant variation of kWh added from the wall plug, because the charging must fill not just the full EV range, but an undetermined and variable amount HV range too.

 

If the OP really wants to bake his noodle, then consider one's traction pack capacity is somewhat a misnomer. It's in a state of change, as a result of time & usage cycles. Capacity when new versus 1? or 5 years old? It's a downward spiral ... so picking nits, we are theoretically speaking of when a plugin is 1st manufactured.

.

 

Actually, there is a way to run the traction battery down to real 0%: run out of gasoline (so the ICE cannot run), and then keep driving after the traction battery charge level goes below the usual transition to HV mode. When the traction battery is discharged too low in this way, it has to be reset by proprietary charging equipment that only Toyota dealers have. Just adding gasoline is not good enough.

 

I thought that was a Gen2 thing, fixed in Gen3.

Gen3 ceased propulsion while there was still enough charge in the traction battery for a decent number of engine restart attempts. In the intentional out-of-fuel tests on Gen3 by a well known member here, just adding gasoline was good enough to get going again. Other members who just kept trying to restart without adding fuel, found a point where restart attempts were locked out until the ECUs were reset by temporarily disconnecting the 12V system. But even then, adding fuel was still sufficient to get it going again, without needing to have a dealership recharge that the traction battery as the Gen2s needed.

Didn't his test of a Gen4 Prime also find a lockout before the traction battery was dead enough to need a dealer recharge?

 

And I had thought it was a gen 1 thing, already fixed in gen 2. But I don't remember that so clearly that I'd insist on it.

 

^ not having owned either generation, I could be mis-remembering as well. But it was certainly fixed before I bought a Gen3, shortly after it was introduced.

 

It would need a dealer recharge on Gen 2
Car ran out of gas, won't start | PriusChat
.

 

Am I reading that thread different than you? At first skim, I'm not seeing any traction battery recharge, just 12V recharge, code reset, code clearing by disconnecting 12V, etc.

And:

 

I yield to Patrick's Superior knowledge & memory. (We used to just live a couple miles apart) .... although long ago i somehow miraculously won a prius trivia game against him at one of the Prius events

.