Question on cooling channel difference in transmission

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Warelan, Mar 25, 2024.

  1. Warelan

    Warelan New Member

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    I purchased a JDM engine to replace my warn out 2015 engine/transmission combo... it looks like the one I got has a slight difference, I am guessing it is a cooling channel that was deleted on a later model? I am posting both pictures - the JDM has the hoses attached. If you look it has an extra plate on the transmission with hoses going out and back into the normal cooling passages. If you look in that same spot on the one that came out of the car it looks like that plate would have origninally gone on that same spot however it appears deleted. Is it safe to just leave this deleted "not hook up the hoses in this location?" if not - what year has these hoses as one of them is cut and I will need to get that replaced. First picture is the JDM engine/transmission the second is from my 2015.

    20240325_183347.jpg
    20240325_183405.jpg
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You've got a transaxle there from a Prius v (the station wagon). The case is the same aluminum casting as in the liftback car, but when built for the liftback it leaves off the motor water jacket cover and just leaves those jacket channels (purple here) open to the air and unused.

    [​IMG]

    If that were the only difference, it would be pretty much up to you whether you want to keep it, attach your car's hoses to the two jacket covers, and just pour in some extra coolant to fill it, or just hook both car hoses to the green cover as it's normally done in the liftback.

    But if your tranny came from a Prius v, it probably has the shorter Prius v final drive ratio also, which might be weird.
     
  3. Warelan

    Warelan New Member

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    Is there a way to tell for sure if it came from a Prius V (assuming that is the plate) and gear ratio vs another version? is there tag on it I can look at to tell what it came off of? I don't want to drop mileage 6 to 7mpg and will get with the person that sold it to me to get a different transmission if needed.
     
    #3 Warelan, Mar 26, 2024
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2024
  4. Warelan

    Warelan New Member

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  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    A true geek, of course, would do it by getting a resolver-to-digital converter, wiring it up to the MG2 resolver pins, and then turning the output shafts so many revolutions, and seeing how many revolutions MG2 makes. :)

    ... remembering that between the output and MG2 there is not only the final drive ratio but also the MG2 reduction gear, but both ratios are in the specs, so just multiply them ... and that the two output shafts are on a differential, so you'd have to turn them both together (or hold one still and turn the other twice as far).
     
  6. Warelan

    Warelan New Member

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    I was hoping they would have put a stamp on the case somewhere... the person that sold it to me just said he had never had anyone complain about them and they are all the same, all of them are like this from Japan. I find it hard to believe as they also have some shown in the listings on ebay that don't have this cover. His response - install it and let me know if there is a problem... no one complains it will work fine... easy to say when it is a long install and removal process but putting 50k on the car a year 7 to 8mpg adds up quickly ugh...
     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    #7 Mendel Leisk, Mar 26, 2024
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2024
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    was your transmission bad? I did the same thing thinking that would be smart to get a transmission with less than 300,000 Mi but it turns out that may not have been so smart I should have kept my original intact it looks like at the present time
     
  9. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    mine is also a JDM that came out of New Jersey and it didn't look anything like that the Transmissions both of them mine and the new one look the same as does the engine wasn't any differences of course I don't care. What I was removing was out of a 2013 persona and both pieces that were shipped to me looked and hooked up the same.
     
  10. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Do you really think he would say: "Well, half the people complain about them failing."?????

     
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Use your original transaxle. Which is what most people do. You will be disappointed with the higher numerical final drive on the wagon transaxle.
     
  12. Warelan

    Warelan New Member

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    When I got the car a year and half ago with appox 200k miles on it, I was told they had stayed on top of all the services everything has been good up until about 25k miles ago... at around 300k when I last changed the transmission fluid (now has 325k). It was thick and black... once I put in new fluid the transmission started clunking when starting and stopping - has been doing it for the last 15k to 20k miles.... could I keep going on it? Possibly, however as I need a new engine at this point I am choosing to replace it due to this clunking that started presenting this noise. I replaced all the suspention parts hoping it was something other than the transmission. New axles, struts etc... all bushing look good but the ones that didn't get replaced will get replaced with the new engine (a arms being the only ones that didn't get replaced still servicable but starting to weather check/crack in some spots so going to do PM). All the engine mounts looked good at that point and still look decent (but putting in new ones with the engine swap). Only thing that changed between the clunking and no clunking was a fluid change and it was thick and black so I felt I was on barrowed time with it. While doing it, I am going for them both due to that clunking (and I did check the levels to validate it was full and it was the correct fliud got it from the local toyota dealer).
     
  13. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    In your profile you state the car is a 2016. Elsewhere you say 2015. Big difference as a 15 is a gen3 while a 16 hatchback is a gen4,

    Odds are good the clunking is a result of a common head gasket leak. Many think it is the transaxle but it is just a loss of sync between the engine and transaxle.

    The bigger problem is a Prius v transaxle has different gearing and cooling. Use the original transaxle or get one like it.

    On top of everything, the vehicles ecus may not like the different gear ratios and resulting speeds. There are very tight computer controlled rpm specs for the two motor generators and the engine to make things work without a torque converter, clutches or hydraulic transaxle pressure.
     
    #13 rjparker, Mar 27, 2024
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2024
  14. Warelan

    Warelan New Member

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    I don't recall entering the prius model however that is corrected to show the correct year as it is a gen 3...

    The transaxle clunking being a gasket leak? wouldn't that present something else like loss of fluid or some other symptom over 15k+ miles? You could at times take off easy enough to not get the noise to reproduce and stop slow enough that it wouldn't clunk but it wasn't always the case.

    I think that all here agree the final drive ratio is an issue, and I will need to re-program the computer to sync up correctly with the transmission most likely if I did end up using that one. The vendor that sold it to me isn't moving on it until it is installed and proven it is incorrect - and that means I will either be out ~600 dollars or ~12 to 16 hours time... either way I need to figure out the best plan here. Removing and replacing isn't a small task. Looking at the manual it appears the replacement procedure of the transalxe is also removing the engine unless I read that incorrectly.

    His respose is - this isn't for sure out of a prius from Japan - this engine and transaxle combo comes in multiple vehicles in Japan and it should be geared the same. Everything I am reading indicate the same things people are seeing here, however what he is saying also holds true they do have these engine/transaxle combo's in different vechiles in other vehicles from what I tell. Does that mean they are geared different? I don't know and is it worth finding out? I don't know that is the 600 dollar question...

    When I came and posted here - I needed to understand where to get a set of hoses if I did choose to use this transmission and also know what potiential issues I would face. One issue was one of the hoses are cut and cannot be re-used that was a hose going between the purple area and green area posted above. The second is the connection of the hoses going from my cooling system to the transmission connect to the green area instead of one to the green and one to the purple so I would need to replace one of the hoses going to the green area and have it go into the green area. So I would need to get 2 new hoses. As it was posted, I do have the option to just use the cooling for the posted green area as that additional cooling was used because of the heavier car. Now that choice was mine, I would be able to source the hoses knowing now what it comes out of potentially.
     
    #14 Warelan, Mar 27, 2024
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2024
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Coolant leaks past head gasket into cylinder(s). Piston coming up encounters increased resistance making it over Top Dead Center, due to this (uncompressible) coolant, causing abrupt deceleration of crankshaft rotation, causes compression/tension (and ultimately breakage) in the springs in the damper twixt engine and transaxle.
     
  16. Warelan

    Warelan New Member

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    How much coolant would you have expected to leave the cooling system in 15 to 20k time with an issue like that? I would imagine you would have built up pressure in the cooling system and/or a considerable loss of coolant? The only thing that changed between the time of the clunking and not clunking was changing the transmission fluid from thick black to clean fluid again.. and it was noticable on the first drive after changing the fluid.

    I say 15 to 20k as somewhere between 20-25k is when we started noticing other issues that indicated the engine might be having other issues...
     
  17. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I guess you are looking for affirmation rather than advice.
     
  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Before there is anywhere near enough coolant entering a cylinder for there to be any "increased resistance making it over Top Dead Center", it can be enough to simply mess up the ignition of the fuel/air mixture. A simple misfire, that is to say.

    And a simple misfire is all it takes to give a Prius transaxle a horrible clunking racket. Any misfire; the reason doesn't matter. This classic article recounts a Prius whose owner let it go for scrap price because the clunking racket seemed so catastrophic, and the cause of the misfire in that one was later traced to a single spark plug.

    The end of the article includes an explanation of why misfiring in a Prius (whatever the reason) leads to such an awful racket.
     
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  19. Warelan

    Warelan New Member

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    Thank you that makes me think even more so that I might have had something else going on.... and possibly not my transmission.

    If it is indeed a head gasket related issue vs a transmission issue then I am more likely to use my transmission. As I have personally never seen a head gasket present this way, I need to understand the best option... if my transmission is failing using the original one isn't really a great option. I haven't started the re-install on the unit but I don't want to put my old unit back in if it is indeed failing like I suspect based on how it was acting prior to needing to replace the engine.

    When the JDM engine did finally arrive and I pulled the car into the garage for the final start (as I had parked it to wait for it to arrive) the engine was not only showing a check engine light with a failure on cylinder number 3 it was obviously clanging and shaking. It sounded like something let go inside the engine and I know that wasn't the transaxle making that noise as that didn't start until the gas engine kicked on. Could it have been the issue presented in the article you sent? Possible, this obviously didn't go through the side of the block, I am not sure if I will crack the head when all is said and done or not. I will be using the new engine for sure... the transmission, likely not based on what people are saying here and then reading that list bit you posted I am leaning more toward just putting my old transmission in an crossing my fingers the clunking doesn't come back.

    I guess I can crack the head and see if there was a bad spot in a gasket first (either way putting in the newer engine). -- Opinions on that? I don't know the material they are made from to know if it will show signs of blow by or not.
     
    #19 Warelan, Mar 27, 2024
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2024
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    As you could read in the article, the awful clanking (an interaction between the uneven rotation of the engine and that of the transaxle) naturally won't be heard except when the engine is running, and indicates engine misfiring irrespective of the cause of misfiring. While a head-gasket leak is one thing that can cause misfiring, it's far from the only thing that can (and is pretty much the most daunting possibility to start with).

    There are some relatively noninvasive tests for that (a leakdown test, or a borescope test with the coolant pressurized). Taking the head off to look would be pretty drastic without one of those results suggesting it's worth the effort; short of that, you're still just in a diagnose-that-misfire situation.