Prius 06 loses power 5 mins after I turn off the engine

That actually sounds pretty retarded pardon my French but holy Christ two or 3,000 I don't know I would think somebody spent an hour or two they get a pretty good idea of what might be happening so obviously there's some kind of load being pulled on your brand new 12 volt battery that was installed yesterday or last week? So the first thing to do is undo the negative battery cable and then when you have time I guess you can hook up a test meter put the cable back where it was and see what kind of load you're pulling with the remote away from the car all of that The hatch closed at least onto a towel. Put a little hoop in the locks of the lock is activated but it's not really locked and look at your meter through the window or have it sticking and the hatch closed on it the gasket won't hurt the wiring and see what kind of load you're pulling I mean in 5 minutes that's got like to be a direct short You got an in cabin heater or something plugged up holy cow even though the battery is small my goodness.

 

Suppose you're a person who doesn't feel much like a DIYer, or like wanting to go get wiring diagrams and learn to read them.

If the dealer says "2 or 3 hundred", maybe that doesn't inspire you.

If they say "2 or 3 thousand", now ....

Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

 

Get a copy of the factory service manual (& wiring diagrams). Start by testing all fuses (in the underhood and underdash fuse blocks). While I prefer a 12V "test light", you can also use a digital multimeter.

From your description, I would guess that some circuits in the car that are supposed to have constant 12V power do not.

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Could the replacement battery be defective?

 

Why in the world would you take your 18 year-old car to a business that specializes in maximizing the cost of warranty repair work to get better numbers with their contract with Toyota? They aren't in the business of keeping old cars on the road in an affordable way, it's why we call them stealerships.

The problem you have can be monitored on shut down. Carefully watch your speedometer as you power off the car. If the various lights go off all at once the problem has returned. If the lights go off in a sequence with gear shift indicator the last light to go out your car is behaving normally.

I've had this problem before and many others have as well. The fix is in taking apart and cleaning and inspecting all the wires and hardware that connect to your 12v battery. One of the connections back there is too loose and causing this problem. Have never been able to find the exact connection that causes it, but that's how you fix it.

 

unless I insert my smart key into the slot

If nothing works from the remote, but everything works from the 'slot'...and is consistently like this...the 12v should be fine.
Either the remote is not remoting or the remote is not being received.
Remote or receiver circuit.
Not to be a wiseguy, but have you tried installing a new battery in your remote?
The keyfob has an RFID chip in it that gets recognized when you insert it into the slot, so the battery is not required.

During normal operation, the FOB is alive and is constantly 'talking' to the car to let it know it's there. If the CR2032 battery inside the fob is dead, then there's no communication and the fob must be inserted into the slot for the car to recognize the fob is present. Typically, when the FOB battery is getting weak, the car senses it and makes a beep noise at you to let you know it's that time again....

And don't forget the SKS switch under the steering wheel. It should only affect the ability of the car to sense the FOB, (which then requires using the slot) but shouldn't affect the remote functionality for door locks, etc.

 

FINALLY! An intelligent response!

 

Lol... When you said "I can't turn on the cabin lights" your desire for an intelligent response dissipated quickly.

You presented the problem as your car having no power, when in truth, your car still had power, you just couldn't turn on the cabin light with your FOB. Acting like your car has no power because you don't know how to see if your FOB battery has no power is unintelligent.

If you want to come on here and insult the intelligence of people trying to help you, maybe consider that your way less than intelligent description of the problem is likely to illicit a way less than intelligent response due to not clearly communicating the problem.

We're trying to help you here and you never bothered to explain your car never lost power, only that your FOB wasn't working.

 

Make sure all the bolts you can access around the 12v are tight... Give everything a good shake to be sure... Also when you turn the car off, watch the speedometer and see if there's a sequence in the screen shutting down or if it shuts down all at once.

The only thing that I've never read on here is the symptoms happening after 5 minutes, usually it's immediate. Please verify that's true.

The other thing I've never read on here is all the problems going away by inserting the key fob, or now that you hit SKS switch when FOB is detected inside the vehicle.

It's hard to understand that the car has no power, yet starts up normally with FOB... That's something I've not read on here in a dozen years. Please verify the lack of power by testing all lights and listening for brake booster pump cycling when you open driver's side door.

 

So when you open the door drive her door or the hatch does the red icon on the dash indicating that the door or the hatch is open in red is on? Have you had trouble with the gas gauge and the speedometer? As in not lighting up driving dark?

 

Well, until some help shows up, Doug might have to do.

 

Really weird seems like maybe a circuit opening relay isn't working or something I don't even know how I could duplicate this.

 

Specifically check the 15A (DOME) fuse underhood and the 25A (DOOR) fuse underdash. Both of those feed power to the "BCM" which controls the power locks and the cabin lights.

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