Just changed the Brake accumulator on my 2013 Prius, it was hissing air and causing an accumulator leak detected dtc . I’m going through the brake bleeding procedure, using Ts, and it fails every time at the step you need to bleed the stroke simulator. And then when I retry it alarms out at different steps. I tried going through the linear offset and no dash lights never blink. Currently have c1202, c1345 and c1368. I saw in other post that the mini vci could be an issue? I have one of those cheap eBay ones
Don't worry I have a generation 3 solar roof card that my tech stream dealer computer cannot access no matter what I do I have access to before and have read the codes cleared the codes worked on the car and all of a sudden in the last few months I can plug up the dealer computer and it does nothing doesn't detect the car doesn't see the VIN nothing The cable plug and on the OBD2 connector lights up like data wants to move then nothing everything in the car is as it was when it was scanned and used and worked on the last time The car's not been anywhere but this driveway and on the road with Uber eats DoorDash and Amazon flex quite strange all the other cars here in the driveway five other Toyota Prius different generations all scan and work perfectly done the brakes brake bleeding all of it with the same Toyota computer It's a CF-13 toughbook and the original Red Mongoose looking VCI cable it's quite weird If your part that you're using is used It may be a problem with the part I've done this two or three times on my generation 2 and the linear valve offset end or the stroke simulators seem to be an issue I don't know whether something goes bad with those parts internally or how it all works don't really care I just need the working part to bleed the brakes to drive the car but I did notice on my generation twos that the car is going to stop no matter what happens I think they've designed at least the generation two so that you cannot not stop I'm not sure about that with the three I haven't had a failing one to test yet but it seems very similar the backup system for the brakes and all that very similar in design so I'm imagining you may have lesser breaking with the lights and the beeping and the nonsense going on but the car will stop. It may be the part that you're installing It's possible it could be bad from the dealer if it was new It is possible.
That's very cool I can't wait to see what the resolve is for this sounds like a bad part or some communication problem with the car and the computer. Interesting for sure thank God we're not going to have to deal with this.
God is that really true In other words you buy a part from Toyota brand new install it on your car can't get Toyota software that I'm not sure if you're allowed to own or not but other computers can do this now and you can't get through installing the part on your car because of the computer glitch or problem that's on me John q customer no kidding boy I'm glad I'm out of these things or this model anyway that that sounds completely crazy I thought somebody had got warranty on a generation too break actuator that they bought with a similar problem in the install that they were doing at their house this is Not specialized work by any stretch of the imagination that would require the dealer other than you know this is what big business and companies want their fights all over the US right now with air conditioning techs and diy folk . Get some more interesting by the minute. So then Toyota's thinking would be that only a dealer could do this specialized type of work to their vehicles pure bunk. The Toyota dealer is about the last person in the world that I would allow to touch my vehicle they're mostly children and girls working there are you kidding me they sell pink bags and TRD stickers.
It was giving me fits with a Mini VCI, and went more smoothly when I tried with a different dongle (a Tactrix for me; if you buy one please spend the money on a real one from Tactrix, otherwise the same thing that happened to XHorse will happen to them, and we'll all be really screwed). The dongle that Toyota recommends is more money, but that's the only one the Techstream help line will want to talk with you about. Also, make sure the 12 volt battery has a good high charge, and/or support it with a 12 volt power supply during the bleeding. Sometimes the voltage just gets too low partway through. just incidentally, that threw me for a moment, reading your post. I'm sure you meant Techstream, but Ts is the actual name of one of the pins in the car's diagnostic connector, and my first thought was "wait, where'd they find some bleeding procedure that uses Ts?".
Chapman thanks for the response. I was finally able to get through it after multiple attempts. Man I sure hope I never have to deal with this again… lol I was abbreviating for techstream