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Knocking at startup, turns off after 10 sec, please help!

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by LanceM, Feb 15, 2024.

  1. LanceM

    LanceM Lance

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    Hello everybody, I am in great need as I’m confused and unsure of what to do at this point.

    I’ve got a 2010 Prius III with 243k miles. It’s had a knock before and after cleaning the manifold/egr all seemed well for about 75k miles. The knocking is somewhat new and I suspected (still do) that it could be the head gasket. Well I went ahead and looked over the intake manifold and egr and they were all gunked up, so I thoroughly cleaned them, I mean really went to town until getting completely diminishing returns and brake cleaner no longer did anything. Lots of pressure washing and grease removal spray/ cans of brake cleaner. Anyway, I put all that back on, tried firing it up and the car shook much worse, had three codes and turned off after ten seconds.

    Engine codes were (via Dr Prius app) P0102, P0113, and P3190. Well it turns out my MAF sensor wasn’t plugged in. I cleaned both my MAF and MAP sensors with MAF cleaner and also really cleaned up the throttle body well with a rag and parts cleaner/ a pick and rag over it to get it all. Anyway, with all that done it’s still acting up, will start, shake like crazy for 10 seconds or so then shut off. Electrical still on but engine off, same codes still.

    I’m very open to try whatever, I’m not a mechanic but up to learn and try, also already ordered the head gasket kit from Toyota and will give that a shot if I can figure out how to attach the coolant pressure tester from o reilly to the coolant fill opening and use a cheap boroscope I bought recently.

    I’ll try and load a video of trying to run the engine recently. I know it’s dangerous to keep on trying this so I’m trying to minimize what I’m doing, also I plan to clean this engine bay up over the next few days. I love this car and know the easy answer is send it out to the farm but if there’s a way I can fix it I would absolutely favor that option. Thanks for any help!

    - Lance
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Now unscrew the cap off your Degas bottle That's where you put the radiator fluid this will not let pressure build up in the bottle and force water into the cylinders to cause them to misfire and start the rattle so now let the car sit all night and in the morning with the digest bottle still uncorked a few turns start the car does it rattle when you just started the car step on the gas whatever and we're just get in the car back it up and let the engine start all by itself Is it rattling No okay drive and do your business now when you get back home tighten the cap on the bottle If you didn't when you left or if you did when you left leave it tight let it sit five or six hours with the cap tight now when you come out with the cap tight does it rattle Yes the pressure in the bottle leaked through the head gasket pushing water with it into the cylinder that you just ignited and it rattled then it clears up when you step on the gas. So for a few days you can keep the bottle with coolant in it a little bit below the full mark leave the cap on but leave it unscrewed about two turns so no pressure can build up in the bottle now you will notice you almost get no rattle for a little while maybe a week or two then it'll get to a point where it'll do it even with the cap open and then it's time to run.
     
  3. Danno5060

    Danno5060 Active Member

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    Read the codes, monitor the cylinder misfires to see which one is giving you the trouble.

    Check you've got the injector wires plugged in.
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    keep an eye on the coolant and clean the egr again
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Clogged EGR is a cause of head gasket failure. Once the head gasket has failed, you get the shakes (due to uncompressible coolant leaking past head gasket into combustion chambers, and EGR cleaning at that point, I is not going to somehow “heal” the head gasket.

    if you’ve just recently acquired the car, with those miles, chances are very good somones used gasket sealer in the coolant, then dumped it.

    diagnose the head gasket first, then ensure EGR circuit (including intake manifold) is clean.

    see my signature for various relevant links. On a phone turn it landscape to see signature.
     
  6. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    When the engine runs for ~10 seconds and turns off that usually means the engine failed to start and your High Voltage battery that starts the engine is being drained down. You'll have to get a high voltage trickle charger to charge up your HV battery if you try to start the engine too many times. So fixing stuff based on the error codes is what you want to do, before spinning the engine again.
     
    Brian1954 likes this.
  7. LanceM

    LanceM Lance

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    All injector wires seemed secure, I’ll be off work tomorrow and can double check.

    The miles are almost all mine, I bought it in 2012 with 29k, now I’m at 243k, no gasket sealer ever used. The egr and intake manifold are in extremely good shape now, it does seem like I need to see if it’s the head gasket. I loaded a video on to the media pages, or maybe it can be viewed from looking at my profile? I’m still very new to figuring out how this site works but it shows the engine starting and running for about 12 seconds. I’ll try using the pressure gauge tomorrow while looking in the cylinders as well as just cleaning up the engine and double checking that I don’t have any cracked hose lines.
     
  8. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    As Camper said it’s probably not starting. Sometimes the pcv hose can be disconnected in addition to the maf issue. Hopefully it’s not late stage head gasket where the coolant is dropping fast. The borescope needs to be high quality dual camera for best results.

    See Car Care Nut HG Borescope at 7:40


    Your media video does not work. The best way is to upload to YouTube and provide the link.
     
    #8 rjparker, Feb 17, 2024
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2024
  9. LanceM

    LanceM Lance

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    Update: here’s a link to YouTube of the knocking noise after cleaning the egr and intake manifold very well and putting it all back in. Since then I’ve taken a lot apart, reached the head gasket to find… no much really. It looked surprisingly good and that was actually a little disheartening since I’m not sure what to do now. I don’t want to put it all back together (with a new gasket of course) and the knock still happen. I’ll post many pictures and clean the EGR again (it seemed to dirty up some more after only these attempts at stating the engine again) and replace the PCV as well as new spark plugs, my current ones looked pretty bad. Any thoughts at all on what I could do to help diagnose the problem with my engine fairly exposed would be extremely helpful.
     
  10. LanceM

    LanceM Lance

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  11. LanceM

    LanceM Lance

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    Pictures thus far. Head gasket doesn’t appear to have any obvious leaking points, I see no scaring in the cylinders either.
     

    Attached Files:

    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  12. LanceM

    LanceM Lance

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    Another little bit of info here: I probably have about 2 gallons of fuel in the tank. Before I parked the car in the garage it would shake for a few seconds and then stop, but after I lifted the front end of the car up and cleaned the egr/intake manifold it just shook the whole time and the engine would stop. In wondering if there wasn’t enough fuel getting where it needed to go since the car was/is on an incline. I’ve heard of some people replacing the fuel filter/pump setup as a possible culprit also but I know that’s a contentious issue since Toyota doesn’t actually recommend changing it. Just throwing out anything I can think of here.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Adjoining wall between cylinders one and two looks surprisingly good. Maybe this zone at cylinder four, intake side:

    upload_2024-3-12_9-34-6.png
    (View as you'd see head gasket, standing at front, before removal. I think...)
     
    #13 Mendel Leisk, Mar 12, 2024
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2024
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    BTW: last link in my signature is full Repair Manual engine section.
     
  15. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    I couldn't positively say that head gasket wasn't leaking, but I sure don't see the classic signs of a "Prius blown head gasket" in these pictures.

    Notably, none of the piston crowns look steam-cleaned.
     
  16. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    As stated before, your engine is not starting. A hybrid uses a high speed electric motor in the transaxle to spin the engine very fast for ten seconds before it gives up. Many people think it starts but then quits when it’s actually wiring, hoses or similar keeping it from running. Your engine is probably trying to start and has severe misfires for whatever reason making the start attempt knock.
     
  17. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Shocked that no one has mentioned anything about spark plugs
     
  18. LanceM

    LanceM Lance

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    @rjparker - I sure wish I would have just accepted that obvious truth before my deep dive but I was too far gone before realizing it all. I had a mobile mechanic come by when the car was torn apart before installing the new head gasket just to check and help me make a plan. Then I had the head resurfaced and cleaned out, new plugs, etc. ($300). After putting her all back together she still had a rough time knocking and the mechanic came out again and it actually sounded much better that time and he concluded it was probably a lifter that was getting lubricared over time and getting better.

    Something was still wrong though, she just felt like she was sluggish. I had new spark plugs, new ignition coils, new o rings on the fuel injectors, clean manifold and egr, the head gasket was great the battery with less than 1,000 miles on her (replacement lithium pack I got a while back) and importantly no more engine or battery codes at all.

    I drove around for a few days, back and forth from work, probably put 300 miles on her in a week then the last test was to do a run to some family land 150 miles away. I was averaging about 38 mpg at 70 mph and knew it was off. Well on the way home I heard a big BANG!!! White smoke behind the car, red triangle light, check engine light. I pulled over, looked under and it was leaking oil like crazy. I limped about a half mile into a small town parts store where they showed me the hole in my block where a rod had shot through. 243k miles in, and she’s done. I’m super bummed and unsure of what to do with the car now. I bought the battery pack a year and a half ago, the first one had an issue and was replaced, I had just put the new one on after the head gasket replacement so it’s like like I just shelled that cash out for the battery but still within the past two years.

    Now what to do with the car/very new great battery. I’m reluctant to spend 5k on a new engine job since besides the battery the rest of the car also has a quarter million miles… and besides my wife is highly against it.

    So the original knocking noise… spark plugs? Ignition coils? Who knows. But it was all for not. At least I learned a lot in the process. Thank you all for your input on this, it was helpful and kept me going.
     
  19. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Sorry to hear it. I am sure someone would buy your battery for $1000 or so.

    At this point it’s an engine or the junkyard. If you find you have to get an engine I would avoid a straight out junkyard engine. Some might go with a JDM engine especially if you could find a reasonable installer.

    IMG_5045.jpeg

    But your wife if probably right, fixing this high mile car is a risk if buying a newer low mile car is an option. Particularly if you can move up to a 2017 or newer with full safety systems.
     
  20. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    This is exactly what happened to the persona in about almost the exact mileage uncanny and like clockwork. I heard the rod break myself got the engine sitting out back here to look at etc and then after I went over the condition of the rest of the car it was a crap shoe My wife or other half really wants the car she should know better everything she wants is a money pit and turns to absolute darkness she should know this by now. Now she's in a Chevy Volt with 36,000 mi on it and loves it thank God she's a redneck Chevy girl and she's in what she needs to be in not in my prii.
     
    Danno5060 likes this.