16" wheel weight

Larger diameter rims tend to be heavier. No idea about the mass of these particular rims.

 

I'd...the 22 is pretty close for the factory 16. Not steel . The Steelies will be the lightest things I think you can get unless you are buying rims that are extremely designed for extremely lightweight and even then I'm not sure that well I'm sure you could but they might be pretty weak

 

Dorman says they're 16x6.5 for a VW or 20 lb of pop I would tend to believe them they do relatively okay work and I wouldn't think they'd have any reason to lie about that but you never know.

 

Is that what you have on your car? You could weight the whole rim/tire assembly, then deduct the tire, tpms valve and balancing weights. Or some online seller may show the shipping weights if you start a purchase process?

Lesser diameter (if practical) would probably help the most: they tend to be inherantly lighter, have the mass closer to the center (always better), and suitable tires narrower/lighter.

 

Yes that's why the 15 achieves the best all around of everything now if you were to get some of those old magnesium wheels I can't remember what the name of them were all of the cool cars had them back in the day it'll come to me when I'm least expecting it not enkei or any of those . Not cragar. But craiger had a style of mag wheel that was a direct copy almost of the mag I'm talking about they were extremely lightweight easy to damage and all that they would spool up almost instantaneously.

 

No I wouldn't put wheel spacers or adapters I would just change my wheel bearings and use the wheel bearings that are 5x100 bolt them in place and be done do the same in the back if that's what you're doing I'm using TRQ bearings off Amazon and eBay for like a whopping 49 or $59 a pop and so far working very well on a few cars a few years in so we're good so far cry from the 180 160 for the originals no need for that at this stage of the game I don't think. But that would eliminate spacers and all the nonsense you'd have the regular concentric circle in the middle of the hub and all that for the five by 100 save your old ones in case you want to go backwards and just knock them out both the other ones in It's really an easy job too man

 

Think you mean change hubs, not bearings, but why?

 

The bearings have the spinning plate that has the bolt circle and the studs that match your wheels instead of fitting spacers and nonsense I just unbolt the wheel bearings out of the hubs usually the hubs I take off the car because it's faster to do this beat the other bearing out with the stud sticking out of it that has my 114 or whatever wheel pattern on it now I bolt in the hubs that have the 5x100 pattern they bolt right into the hubs generally the same hub used to be you could press the bearing apart and press the plate in with the bolt pattern of your choice but now everything is throwaway so there's always that I have the hub sitting out right here from a generation 3 with the five by a hundred and it looks like if I want it I could buy the 5x114.5 or whatever you said it was and they would bolt right into my hubs The bearing assembly doesn't change just the face that spins that has the studs sticking out is what's different so rather than have all these spacers and longer wheel studs and all this kind of nonsense going on to me it just seems cheaper and quicker to change the bearing assembly or the hub to what I want so then I reuse regular lug nuts studs and all of that to hold the wheels on there's not an extra 3 lb of spacer or whatever it is to me it would be cheaper to do that less parts to keep track of all of that at least here anyway.

 

Yes my bad use of terminology The hub is the big aluminum thing that comes with the car that the bearing and the plate with the studs it spins that your wheel attaches to. I take the hubs off the car because usually when I do this I'm doing some other things It's only like five bolts and then I can knock the bearing assembly in and out of the hub very quickly but the four bolts in stick the mess back on the car now I have no spacers no funny business no extra parts on my front wheels or back wheels whichever and the wheel just bolts right up with the four or five nuts and them finished If you want to leave the hub on the car and lay on the ground and knock them out that way well by all means have had it this just eliminates all the extra metal and parts out there on the very end of your rotating mass the wheel.