P261B code on 2013 prius C that drove to body shop w no faults but won't start month later to leave

well, the rear quarter looks better. Can't find any threads in the prius C forum on this so posting a new one while also glomming on to a P261B discussion in 3rd gen. These symptoms seem close to what I'm trying to solve except they manifested while driving rather than while taking a month off. took the car to body shop for rear quarter damage (bought it that way, drove it 4000 miles, now getting it spruced up). Went to get it and it wouldn't start the ICE. has a P261B fault which it seems shuts you down so maybe it prevents you starting although I don't know how it can know you have low circulation if the engine doesn't start or maybe this is just a derivative fault where you don't have circulation because the engine doesn't start. but I would think there would be some other code to explain why the engine didn't start. (also showing a P0453 evaporative emission sensor code but most crowd sourcing says that will not shut the car down or stop engine from starting. I do wonder where that sensor is. the body work was rear quarter and the guy doesn't think he unplugged anything. the tank is bank there. but I don't think this would stop it from starting . . . although i probably have to get it figured out in order to pass inspection.)

when I turn the key to Start (the equivalent of pushing the start button on standard prius, I believe, I hear a relay pull in the relay and fuse panel on the passengers side near fire wall. other than that nothing. dash is lit (battery went dead while the thing was sitting at body shop but put another battery in and dash is fully lit. shift the car to D or R and the indicator on Dash shows the change but engine doesn't start and a message pops up to shift back to park and check hybrid system.

anyone in the hive mind got any ideas? thanks, brian

 

@rjparker tried resetting codes with torque pro. not sure if they actually cleared though.

@bisco drprius wouldn't talk to my bluetooth yesterday so i couldn't check hybrid battery although i think it would set a code for that, no?

 

@vvillovv also points out that it is normal for body shop to disconnect traction battery although my guy says he did not. i feel like it should throw other codes if its got no traction battery but if i want to check plug, what is the location on the prius C. I could also unplug and directly check battery voltage if I can't get the dr. prius program workings. it has been a nightmare with the bluetooth adapter.

 

@Leadfoot J. McCoalroller and @vvillovv thanks for info. this dongle has worked with dr. prius in the past, its just moody. finally got it to hook up today. battery is showing 10 cells, one low but not off the charts voltage of 15.13 the others or 15.16 and 15.18. pack voltage 151.63 state of charge 58.83%. i haven't checked that plug yet. don't know if it's possible that the pack voltage can be read but poor connection to deliver amperage needed?

checking again with torque pro, only fault of relevance seems to be the the P261B. Folks seem to say that relates to the circulation from the belt driven engine water pump and not the electric pump for coolant of hybrid side electrics but should I be checking that electric pump? could that also be implicated. i try clearing the fault. not clear to me if it is clearing and immediately resetting or its not clearing.

still getting the message shift to park and check hybrid system.

thanks,

brian

 

@Leadfoot J. McCoalroller sorry, took me a snow storm or two to get back under the hood. OK, got it on the water pump. I just saw it bolted to the engine and presumed it ran off the time belt or some such but I see it is hybrid of traditional location and mounting with electric.

gotta charge the 12V and i'll retake the codes. don't think i mistook 8 and B but since you don't think the water pump code would prevent start, you got me wondering.

one of the few realtime sensors that torque pro can read without the engine starting is the water temp, and it ain't no 105 degree C.

more like 0 degrees C.

struck me as odd that if electric they would bolt the water pump onto the engine with a traditional kinda gasket setup. I would have just mounted it on the fender somewhere with good piping angles and used a radiator hose . . . but thats the way I think.

so when I just power up and turn the ignition, is the pump supposed to start before the engine does. maybe i can listen with a stethscope. or is there a flow reading of some sort, since you say it is looking for a minimum flow, i wonder if i can get that parameter with torque pro, or some equivalent.

thanks much