2008 Prius with 3/4 warning lights and no codes

Your car has codes, but the reader used was not able to read them. This happens quite often, as not all readers are able to recognize hybrid codes.

 

This thread compares a number of scan tools and apps, and indicates which ones are the good bets for reading all your codes:

Gen2 OBD2 app review | PriusChat

 

How old's the 12 volt battery? Checked it's voltage? (car off, first thing in the morning)

 

• Note: I never noticed the oil can symbol pop up
• Note: I’m due for my oil change within the next few weeks

pretty sure there is no "low oil" light. makes no sense other than to force owners to consistently check the oil level.

when it does get low, you might notice the red-triangle flash when turning sharply. I think it means the oils goes to a side with momentum and triggers that flash. if so, stop and add oil.

 

There is an "oil can" symbol, though many would more succinctly describe it as "Aladdin's Lamp" symbol. It's for low oil pressure though, not low oil level. Problem with that, it usually comes around the time you're already screwed.

The dipstick dimples are about 1.6 quarts (1.5 liters) apart, and there's about a pint (0.5 quart) from the bottom dimple to the tip of the dipstick. With OP saying oil was just registering on the tip of the dipstick, and his estimate of around 2 quarts added to get it back to top dimple (assuming that's what he meant by "healthy level"...), he probably had at least 1.5 quarts in there still. By no means ideal, but better than nothing.

If "healthy level" means somewhere between the two dimples, that'll cut into that estimate of how low he got.

 

In my generation twos I've never noticed Aladdin's lamp or the oil can either I'm now have to go out and look I know that when the '09 which uses oil gets low on oil it will set the red triangle especially in corners and then of course when it's low enough when the car is not turning which is not good but this engine has been doing this since I got it so maybe at some point I'll put the other one nz that I have in it . But it may not make it if everybody keeps running into deer with it.

 

Take the car to a few different auto part store and have them check for the trouble codes. Maybe you will get lucky, and the scanner that they are using will report trouble codes.

My guess is the hybrid battery. Once you get the trouble codes, you will know.

 

I would be hoping actually that is the case because then that solve the business Man oh wait car now is what 14 years old I know when my hybrid battery was falling on its face in my '09 I could step on the gas and make the car rev 3500 RPMs and go nowhere like the transmission was slipping in a regular ice vehicle exactly like it actually soon as I change the battery all that nonsense stopped gas mileage went right back up to 47.1 which was factory rated in 09. Put the bad battery falling on its face I was getting like 39.

 

Replacement time. After driving it should actually have a bit of "surface charge, be higher than a "healthy" level, say 12.8 or higher. 11.9 fresh after driving, and quickly dropping, doesn't bode good.

 

My wise-guy split personality is about to show up....

when checked after driving, it had a 11.9V max and dropped to low 11s / high 10s with headlights on.
Weird that it's called a 12v battery, not an 11 volt battery. Although, if those voltages were read from the MFD (not a voltmeter on the batter terminals) they may be relatively normal.

I wish there was a low oil warning
There is, but it requires an open hood, a paper towel and a stable periodicity for best results .

 

You have some hybrid code, most often the hybrid battery but there are others.

You need to get the diagnosis and THEN step forward and ask questions here. If you can resist the charms and scare tactics of the service advisor. Often there are lower cost value added repairs depending on your location and sometimes your knowledge of local shops.

As a side note, there are low cost Bluetooth obd2 hardware interfaces that work with phone apps to access most codes. Such as Car Scanner or Dr Prius. Maybe $50-$100 (hardware and upgraded app)but not totally comprehensive with less detail. Usually enough for most owners.

$500+ scanners include XTool D7 or D8 and the Launch X431 CRP919X especially if you need a brake booster and diy installation.

Toyota Techstream is the standard (which is going away) and still excellent for older Toyotas. None are magic bullets but used by experienced eyes help isolate the issue.