3-door smart key feature on v ( lowercase v) five retrofit for v three?

L7 Connector and not L8 of Main Body Ecu not Certification Ecu?

 

Yes on that connector, I tried pin 7, which is the same pin native said to use, but I do not have a wire in pin 23

 

The L8 connector only has 3 wires in it and it's not connected to anything

 

I would sleep on it and then check everything with new eyes.

Sometimes an obvious mistake is missed in the heat of battle due to assumptions such as this or that is right or “I already verified that step”.

Add lots of confusion with wiring changes between the hatchback and the v along with no definitive drawing.

I suspect most of the members who did this years ago (first posted in 2011) have moved on.

 

Fresh eyes on it, everything is connected, and has a good connection, all the antenna are receiving when I approach, all locks are working, driver door will unlock, pass and rear hatch will not unlock

 

Ok I got it fixed and found my issue, it was the purple wire on the verification ecu, my damn t tap didn't take enough wire insulation off, I redid that, and closed the gap, and boom, now everything works, I'm using the smallest t taps they make but still not quite small enough lol, if anyone needs help in the future I can help, I also found a rear hatch trigger in the verification ecu and didn't have to run a wire to the driverside, but the diode is still needed

 

first post.
Why is BrettS calling for a 12V zener diode instead of regular?
Anyone knows?
Thanks.

 

Normally you would use a 12v zener because you want it to conduct in both directions. But conduction* from cathode to anode will limit voltage to 12v at the cathode. A voltage regulation function a diode does not have.

*conventional current representation