3-door smart key feature on v ( lowercase v) five retrofit for v three?

Just bought a used 2014 P V 3 after owning a 2008 for ever, still and got swindled by the dealership that sold it as a V. Took awhile to figure out what all we didn't get but by far the moooooost annoying thing is the "one door SKS"!!!#$%^&*(

Just joined Pchat and hoping anyone else out there can update us that this does indeed work for a 2014 wagon so I can get this $%^&*( fixed!!!!

Thanks!

 

You can change it so that all the doors unlock with the drivers. Is that good enough? Press the Lock and Unlock Buttons, at the same time, on your remote for 5 seconds. It will go to all doors unlocking or will toggle back to just the drivers.

 

Hmmm. That may be the fallback solution but what I was hoping to hear was that the “passenger door/passenger door wiring harness /trunk 2 button switch/trunk antenna” retrofit-fix noted earlier in this thread (and wiring codes) apply to a 2014 wagon?

 

Hi
Thanks for the great thread on the sks retrofit.
We have a 2008 with 3 door sks and just bought a used 2014 V that was sold as a v trim but after checking the VIN turns out to be a 3 trim package (I.e. one door sks).

Can you tell me whether your fix will work on our new baby?

Thanks!!!

 

The odds are about 99 to 1 it will work as the 2014 v3 was virtually the same as a 2012 v3. However one of the first things the combined instructions say to do is the 5 second all doors open command listed above. It won't work otherwise. So you should try that now for no cost and see how it works for you. Most of us find it is fine that way.

Second, realize that the 2012 v3 instructions here note that a door wiring harness that was in the standard Prius modified in the original instructions is not in the Prius v3, so you have to find that standard Prius part and install it.

Third note that many wires have to be spliced using a tap connector and at least one guy later had problems with those connections.

Fourth note that another guy had a third party shop do the work for $650 labor and it still did not work and had to be diagnosed. So he had a $1000 dollars into it with parts.

Finally, even though it is highly likely the combined standard Gen 3 instructions and this thread's 2012 Prius v3 instructions would work in a 2014 v3, I would go to the subscription TIS system and pull the schematics of the three cars in question, compare all with the first standard Prius' instructions and note what colors change from car to car so that the chances of burning something up by a mistake is reduced.

This change is a major job, reported to take a period of days in the first car and at least six hours in the second.

 

Thanks!
Just called the shop where we've had our 2008 serviced since new and they didn't seem to have any confidence that this would work, hadn't heard of any other customers that tried it or complained about the one key sks (that's the part I really can't understand!) and were not interested in taking the job on.

Having specifically done a retrofit door lock system mod using the BMW clubs forum I find all this a little bewildering, since the other stuff worked fine.

May reread the whole thread again and see if maybe I can just do the rear hatch switch and antennae.

Thanks!

 

I will try to do the hatch door myself on a gen3 and I am trying to get as much info as possible.

Appart from any differences to cable coding, you have to decide if you are going to connect the 2nd antenna in series or parallel with the existing one.

This really is troubling me as I don't want to overload and fry any circuit longterm.

I don't have any deep technical knowledge for electronics but maybe if those antennas behave like resistances, it means that serial connection will result in double total resistance and parallel connection will result to half than the original resistance.

I hope someone with more knowledge can throw some light on this dillema.

 

I'm stuck on this part as well, which black wire is it? There are 3 that I can see

 

Anyone know? Please I have my car half apart already

 

The original instructions are referring to a bigger connector with a light green conductor inside a black “sheath” or cable cover. Almost all cables have a black sheath. You have to look for the connector and pull back the sheath to find the light green wire.



One of the big problems is the original author of this hack did not document the schematic. This can cause trouble when checking the documentation on a different year or model like a v wagon. Most of the time it’s the same but.. sometime the location or even unnecesssry wiring for a given trim can be moved or missing.

 

View of my 2012 v with headliner pulled slightly down

 

That light green wire runs to a red wire on the other side of the connector, I did find out which black wire it is, the black wire next to the thicker blue wire is the one that is needed, it runs to the light green wire on the other side of the connector, I did verify this through a wiring diagram, but thank you for your responses and help

 

I've got everything hooked up, and it all locks from every door handle, but I can only get it to unlock from the driver door or with the key, what am I missing?

 

Assuming the wiring is all correct especially at the certification and body ecus, did you switch the system to open all doors from driver's? Did you use a 12v zener diode as suggested rather than a normal diode?

 

Yes I did do the open all doors, I've had it that way for a long while now, and yes I did use a 12v zener diode, my question is, the wire that comes from the driverside shows voltage when locked, but nothing when unlocked is there supposed to be voltage the other way around? If I disconnect the wire for the diode it will still lock just not unlock

 

As I suggested in post 50, the problem with diagnosing this non-standard wiring is no one has documented the mods on a schematic.

Since it is fresh in your mind, how about marking up the linked drawing perhaps by printing and marking up. Then scan the markups and pm me for an email or link the scan from your google drive or similar. At that point diagnostic steps would be easier to determine. We could then make a cleaned up version.

Note that *2 single door sks wiring is your factory setup. *3 is for factory 3 door sks but your mod will be different with cut or tapped wires.

 

Looking at the wire diagram you sent, it's the same I've been looking at, but on 17, we're it is *2 for pin 23 and the Grey wire, it says for I doors sks, I don't have that wire in my harness at all, I tried the Grey wire in pin 7 like native said to use, but wondering if that is the wire I need but missing from the connector

 

I have the handle wiring harness connected the same way it is written, and even the passenger door handle hooked up and it doesn't unlock either, it does recognize that the key is there, because the dome lights come on when I approach the door, and they all lock

 

You are looking for it on the Main Body Ecu correct?

 

Yes