Antifreeze replaced by dealer. Later same day the "engine temp" LED came ON then went off Virtually no warm air out of cabin vents, this from a car that would start to warm up in 1/2 mi +/- In all the miles 80k + is new problem No coolant leaks, no steam from the exhaust like a blown head gasket. Dealer is puzzled as am I, as to the cause They have been very helpful to their credit Both times the led came on I was driving at 65mph one time it was on for 1 mile The dealer has not been able to reproduce the problem I have seen cars get air bound when the coolant has been changed and the radiator cap re-installed before the thermostat has opened. The high temp indication along with no heat from the vents is odd, but not surprising if there's no coolant in the heater core. Seems like no one (at the dealer) has ever heard of this behavior. I anyone has something to offer, this would be the place to find "em! YOUR thoughts please. Many Thanks Shammo
Maybe have the dealer or yourself if you have the Toyota software to command the pump to come on leave it running on midrange RPM or high if you're so inclined with the degas lid off for a few minutes If the coolant level drops a little keep it where it needs to be and just let that rip for I don't know 3 minutes or something sounds reasonable I'm just listen and watch you don't need to have the car engine running or any of that nonsense just listen to your water pump listen at the Degas bottle lid if you like and after about 3 minutes of this command the pump off let the thing stand a minute while you go do whatever come back cap the bottle and go for a ride and see what you get sounds like you've got air trapped I would think not a bad sensor but if it's done this a bunch it maybe possible You can test the sensor there's some specs somewhere for it used to be common for temp sensors on engines to go bad but I wouldn't think so here on these newer sensors unless it's just a bad batch or something The light flashing on and off means it's all what the 240 for a second long enough to set it off but we really shouldn't be seeing those kind of temps in this choked up kind of setup maybe your pump impeller is starting to shed its plastic another thing to be looking at.
Thanks to all who replied to my posting. Oddly enough I found a YouTube vid that describes my problem to a T. In fact the guy who posted his problem, sounds as if he is reading MY post out-loud verbatim. For those interested, the URL for the YT page is : I will be heading to the dealer to replace the pump ASAP. I'd gladly do it my self but its too blasted cold in my garage and I am not a young man anymore <sigh> Seems a bit odd that of all places to find a solution, the DEALER would / should know??? Shammo
Tell the dealership that you want the old water pump to be returned to you. Inspect the impeller and see how it rotates. Is there resistant? If so, pull the impeller out and inspect the white plastic. Is it cracked?
Thanks to all who helped me diagnose the failing water pump on my 2011 Prius II. Sorry it took so long to reply, I haven't been well, Parkinson's SUCKS big time. Regards, Shammo!
