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steering wheel off center?

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by ronlewis, Dec 27, 2023.

  1. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    Swapped in a set of tires and a strut on a car. The driver's strut had been bad for a while, and the tires were wore out. The parts car I got from Denver had new tires and it drove real tight so I used it's strut. Made a huge difference. Car runs quiet and smooth. I'm driving to StL tomorrow and will see if it's helped my mileage.

    Only deal, my steering wheel is off center now. And I guess it's pulling slightly to the right as well, although I've been in cars that pulled a whole stronger than this. Just a finger on the wheel keeps it straight.

    Does that sound like something I could have done replacing the strut? Or anything else? I've only driven it about 5 miles, and maybe the passenger side tire is just low on air. IDK, it was dark. Still, it drove beautifully as long as I kept that finger on the wheel. What else should I look at?
     
  2. Brock Turner

    Brock Turner Junior Member

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    Any time you do work on the suspension, it is recommended that you get an alignment.

    Generally, in my experience installing new McPherson it doesn't really change the alignment at all. In theory the parts should have identical geometry, but it sounds like either A- that is not the case in your situation or B- something else was inadvertently adjusted when the work was performed.
     
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well I'm assuming when you put the new strut assembly on you kept your front hub assembly your tie rod setting stayed the same you just undid the strut from the front hub at the two big bolts and then the three up top and the end link so you didn't touch your steering your toe your camber may not be completely seated if you didn't smack on the hub assembly after you put the bolts back in if you don't have camber or crash bolts installed You usually tighten them a little bit and then you smack it in so it's seated up against the strut assembly solidly and then you sock them down tight If you leave the hub out a little bit like it can you see it will move a little bit with the bolts installed You want to put it where it was when you undid it so to make me know on my cars where it is when I put the two bolts in I push my knee against the hub to push the hub against the ears that the bolts are running through then I tighten up the bolt so it doesn't move That's how I do all of the struts here on the property so when I take them loose and they pop out a little I need to make sure I put my knee on them and push them back in and tighten the bolts That's how my alignments done so when this adjustment is off you know that's an eighth of an inch or so that that thing is moving a little better what that amounts to in degrees is probably enough. I do know this my alignment guy tells me when I change my hubs or when I change a tie rod end the way I'm measuring and reapplying my tie rod end and putting everything back together he technically when he puts the heads on my wheels doesn't need to make an adjustment and rarely does He says that's how close or spot on I get it just in the driveway and I do have this checked when I replace struts tie rod ends and the like and that's what he's told me for 20 years .
     
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  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Have you got a way to measure / correct the alignment? It's not a bad idea any time suspension components have been changed.

    Firestone has (at least, last time I checked) this "lifetime alignment" program you can select. You buy that one time, and after that you can go into a Firestone any time and get the alignment rechecked. Handy for DIY.

    Lots of things interact. You can find a handy flowchart on page 8 of this repair manual supplement.
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Once you learn how to measure your tie rod ends and put them back where your alignment guy had em set when you took them off and pushing the hub all the way into the ear tabs before locking down the bolts and usually you'll get back to your original alignment to within like a 16th or a 32 of an inch
     
  6. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    Just got back from picking up that car in StL. Thanks for the info. Gotta sleep in right now and will check all this tomorrow and NY's day.
     
  7. Josey

    Josey Active Member

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    I would never only replace one strut.

    And after I do - even though on this set-up it shouldn't matter much - I always get a shop to put it on an alignment rack.

    That said, I'd swap the tires front to rear to see if anything changes. I had a weird tread separation once on a not-so-old tire.
     
  8. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    Preliminary update - sorry, I've been working on other cars so I can clear out one of my storage lot spaces before the contract comes up again. I did swap over the other strut to this car - so it now has a known-good matching set from a that car I drove home from Denver. And it does ride nicer, along with the new tires. But, it still pulls right, and shakes around 70mph. The strut didn't change any of that.

    Next, I'll balance the tires. They came off one of my cars that the PO had swapped out the stock wheels for steel rims. New-looking tires, but I noticed the tire shop had to use a lot of weights to get them balanced. I hoped it was just the steel rims, the cheapo tire shop I used didn't have a balance machine. Maybe one of the tires is defective - I never drove the car they came off of.
     
  9. zeng

    zeng Junior Member

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    The wheel alignment requires adjustment other than wheel balancing in this context.
     
  10. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    Yeah, I think so as well, but it also has that vibration at 70mph, which could be a tire out of balance. Since it wasn't done by the tire shop, and since they are used tires now on different rims, it seems like balancing is the best next step. Thanks!