New Registered key is not being detected

Hopefully, he will send you the correct one this time. And THAT will resolve the problem you
are having.
Do you have a the cloned techstream, or the real thing? That also could be part of the problem.
That is what I have. It seems to do everything I have needed it to do, so far. Though kinda SLOWLY.
This week I received the Xtool D8. It's fast! Read the Prius quickly and easily.
I hope I never have to clone a key, but it looked easy enough.

I need to replace my tire pressure sensors. Seems 13 years is too long to explect the batteries to last.
It read 3 of the 4, which tells me the one battery IS dead. The 4th was in another section on the screen.
Which may be saying the D8 read it in the computer, but couldn't get a reading from the sensor.
I didn't play with it long, I just wanted to make sure it worked.

I'm going to use it to do a complete brake bleed soon. I'm hoping it will go smoothly!

 

I'm following this thread, and wish all the luck to get it right.

My son has 2 factory key, and one was low battery so he decided to use the 2nd key instead of replacing the battery..

Months later the 2nd key is low on battery, and now he decided to replace both batteries.

Only to find out that the one with dead battery no longer work with the vehicle after battery replacement...

Scratch my head still on how to rectify this key...

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Glad you finally got the correct one, and you were able to program it and getting it
working correctly!

You should be able to go to walfart and have them duplicate the key for you.
Or ace hardware maybe??? Worse cause, Toyota will do it.

 

Yes, they do car keys also. I don't know what they would do if you bring your own key though.
They are taking away things people do, and no one knows how to do anything anymore.
Ace or Toyota or a locksmith would be the better option...

 

Thank you, it's a Gen 3. And I've tried that, no luck..
Didn't know what happened to it, his mom and step dad changed the battery and nothing worked after that...
I may just buy a new key and program it for him...

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

There's an eerie quality of deja-vu here... I just ordered two new aftermarket fobs today, each around the same price, from ebay.

A few hours after they were marked as shipped, I noticed something I'd missed, buried in the fine print of the listing. I'd been staring at these listings in hopes of saving a few $100 until I felt punch-drunk, and the details blurred together. But this part seems important, not just something thrown in there for fun: "Need locksmith to program it by Lonsdor K518, Tango or Xhorse VVDI Key Tool Max. CANNOT be programmed by TechStream."

After reading this thread, I think I'm gonna take the seller's advice and steer clear of TechStream. Barring cheap access to one of the above alternative tools, I'll use an automotive locksmith proficient in one of those non-TechStream tools. These keys are strictly backups, and there's no way I'm dropping more than $250+ net** (see below) per key just because it's OEM. At that price point for a car key...well, no offense, but in the cold light of day, that price really does feel like joining a cult!

But I'd still be curious to know: Did the eBay seller for your aftermarket keyfob put any similar disclaimer, e.g., "CANNOT be programmed by TechStream" in the listing?

Really good to know this, and I'm 100% going to open up the new fobs and check their board #s before taking a single step further.

**The major difference in our situations, and the chief reason I reluctantly decided to buy aftermarket fobs instead of OEM, is that my 2011 Prius seems to require a cursed variant of key that has a different chip and different FCC ID than the majority of Gen3 Prius.

The inscription on the back of the only key I have (OEM) has been completely rubbed off...so, no obvious way of telling what it once said (especially as far as FCC ID #).

But on opening it up, the board definitely says 271451-3370. Based on A) 3370 board number, and B) the 06/2011 production date stamped inside the driver's door, I've extrapolated from this very informative thread and others that I PROBABLY should have this fob type:

1) fcc id: HYQ14AAB (has two chips, and not one, on the board - kudos to RobH for posting a photographic comparison)
2) oem p/n: 89904-47420 (mfg date is after May 2011, but it's still a 2011 model year Prius)
3) board #: 271451-3370 (type 'E') (printed in plain numerals on the one working key's board)

And yes, I know, I'm going to call the dealership too to verify the above...but when one model year has two different FCC frequencies, there's a nonzero chance they'll get it wrong...even Ace Hardware would not touch this $290+ potential piece of business after hearing that this 2011 model year is split between two different FCC frequencies.

The one good OEM key that I have is just three buttons. No trunk button, no A/C button. A good part of a day spent drilling the internet turned up an exceedingly poor menu of choices in my budget range for OEM keys that check all three of the above boxes (1, 2, and 3) and also have three buttons. So...I'm hazarding aftermarket and hoping Madman Marv's House of Transponders or whatever will have the non-techstream tool (or tool access) that's still cheaper in the aggregate than buying a used OEM..barring that, the aftermarket keys do have a good return policy.

 

The guy that used to do all my key work up in Maine USA one of the few people in the States that could clone my transponder key for my Italian motorcycles uses some of the devices you have listed above in your statement about programming the keys. No locksmith in the right mind is going to own tech stream never met one yet. And most of them are able to do a lot of this work I don't know about Prius specific but on my van on my Corollas and all of those vehicles never been a problem I am not sure that the Prius is all that difficult or separate from all of those other cars in similar years as they're using similar electronics and everything else I don't care how many chips or signals or any of that any of them have The machine the locksmith uses is quite expensive and generally can handle whatever he's trying to do He hasn't told me that there's any specific normal cars he can't mess with as far as the key goes there's a few Bentleys and Lamborghinis and things like that a few Audis that are very tricky but Toyotas and Nissans and all that pretty much not an issue unless there's something new that I don't know about All lock and key I think is also no longer as the guy is liking his 80s but there are others I have used a few in Texas and what have you so the machines that the locksmith have are pretty flexible and pretty stout and have very decent coverage by the manufacturer themselves they have classes on that mess. There's also a local guy here that claims he can do whatever I personally haven't had to go see him yet this is one thing I try to make sure I do not have to deal with so far luckily every car I've bought even the recovered stolen vehicles and cars coming from shops that can't be repaired I at least get one good remote if not to My bust them open the FCC Gray and or black label with the silver writing is always intact and I photograph it and put the copy of the photo in the glove box so I have all those numbers those numbers are what the locksmith usually needs He doesn't care about your buttons and the year making model of the car so much he needs those FCC transponder and ID numbers then he can make everything happen That's been my experience so far I would usually let all lock and key in Maine handle the fob business because he would know what fob to acquire so that he can have a successful programming He never charged me any serious money I mean these things are like 79 80 a hundred bucks. I've also seen him take some old cars and use a completely different transmitter and remote to make the car work because he couldn't get the parts or whatever once he knows the frequency it transmits on and all this and that he can use one of the four tools mentioned up above in your post It's a program another type of remote with a similar or same broadcast frequency and at least get the doors unlocked get in the car remove the panic button mode that sort of thing so at least the car can work but this was not on Prius this was on older cars that were falling off the parts list almost classics.. But I did not know the 2011 had dual or more than one I see chip on the board I don't look in all the remotes I have 2013 here We did case up the fobs boards in new outers or cases but kept the same boards new batteries and transponder chips and they both work perfectly.

 

Unfortunately that one has FCC ID # HYQ14ACX / Transmitter/board # 271451-5290; mine has FCC ID # HYQ14AAB (probably...) / transmitter # 271451-3370.

Every OEM keyfob listing that seems reasonably priced turns out to have the wrong FCC ID, HYQ14ACX, or the wrong transmitter number, usually 0140 (not 3370).

Actually, struggling to find ANY OEM HYQ14AAB keyfobs that also have a 3370 transmitter.

 

Sometimes, you just have to spend the money to get the right stuff.

 

It took some doing, but I got confirmation about the transmitter number from two longstanding ebay sellers who do accept returns, and was able to order two unlocked OEM HYQ14ACX / 3370 keys (one Toyota, one Lexus) with an uncut emergency blade. One was $49 and the other was $53. rrg confirms you can absolutely use Techstream to mate an OEM Lexus key with a Prius, provided that the FCC ID matches, and since the transmitter number also matches, I'm going to give these a shot. Including tax and return shipping on the aftermarkets, it's still only about $23 net more than for the aftermarket fobs.

And every locksmith I called here in Chicago about using a more advanced programming tool to set up the aftermarket fobs wanted about $200 per fob for what I understand is a 5 to 20 minute task. Meaning that the net cost of getting the aftermarkets programmed is actually much more than programming the OEMs with Techstream.

I already have a 32-bit laptop from the mid to late 90s (cost me nothing, was a giveaway from an old office job), and I've ordered the mini VCI + Techstream for about $25. Cutting new blades is still a question mark as far as cost, but that would've cost the same with aftermarkets.

So, ironically, OEM actually turns out to be the cheaper option!

Absolutely, I'm a refugee's kid, bargain-hunting is hardwired for me.