Cleaned corrosion from buss bars now getting P3000 code

All the modules should be very similar in voltage, since you have 16v, 15v and even 14v voltage, you have some failed modules. I believe the Prius will tolerate a voltage difference of .3v, anything higher than that, you're just waiting for a failure to happen and the car to throw a code.

Next step is to buy a new battery or replace the failed modules. Ideally you would need to balance the entire pack so the modules are similar in voltage reading and capacity.

 

You can buy a balanced rack already squeezed up ready to drop on your tray on eBay and various and sundry places 650 or so for the generation too anyway which would cover the three. That might be something you ought to look into so what you're dropping into your case is balanced ready to rock and roll put up your bus bars that are clean and nuts spray all that stuff or whatever prep work you do and let it rip I just did this to the $700 '07 car we bought Raleigh North Carolina it's running like a top getting 51 miles to the gallon sometimes. It is worth it if your battery is failing and all of that sort of thing and you don't want to spend the 14-16 whatever it is hundred now on a new one.

 

$25 each for used modules that are balanced and ready? You probably won't need ebay for that @TMR-JWAP

 

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When replacing the busbars did you use a torque wrench on the nuts? The correct torque is 48 in-lbs (5Nm)
Also check the 14 block voltage sensor wires for damage

 

Just in case, note the “in” above: it’s for “inch”, basically a lever arm 1/12 of a “foot” pound. In a nutshell: the torque in foot-pounds (or pound-foot for sticklers?) would be 4 (48/12).

 

Funny, I most often seem to see people write newton·meter (force before length) but foot·pound (length before force).

But multiplication is commutative, so not really much to stickle about. A torque is a force times a lever length, whatever the order.

 

A number of years ago, McDonald's tried to standardize their "breakfast sandwich nomenclature". For awhile, the clerks would try to "correct" my order by calling a particular sandwich - an "Egg Mcmuffin with sausage". My response was "it's been a sausage Mcmuffin with egg for much longer than you'be been alive". Eventually they stopped doing that

By definition, pound-feet or pound-inches is correct, but I've had foot-pounds and inch -pounds in my head for so long that it ain't going to change.

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Why did you go after the busbars? Were you having problems before?

If those blocks have voltages that are lower than the others on accel (by around 1.0-1.5V) but go higher than the others on decel, that would point to failed battery modules.

There's many, many posts in the forums about battery "repairs". Most money and most reliable is a new HV pack (from Toyota). Next would be to find a (good) complete NiMH pack from a wrecking yard.

After that are various levels of "refurbished" packs. Some buy packs from companies or shops that "do" something to used modules that hopefully results in a pack that lasts a few years.

Others go DIY, and get used modules. Some "just" replace them (and cross their fingers). Some replace and use "grid chargers" to discharge - charge cycle the entire pack at once. Others replace and use hobby RC chargers to cycle modules individually.

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How did you clean off the corrosion on the fan connector? Some would replace the female pinned connector. Others might try some electronics contact cleaner like Deoxit D5.

Amazon.com: Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. : Automotive

Toyota Prius P3000: Check This Before Replacing Your HV Battery | Torque News

 

When I perform a HV battery job for a customer, I typically offer to just cut the connector out of the circuit and splice/heat shrink the wires together, at no charge, just to ensure no future problems. There's really no reason that connector ever needs to be handled.

 

Not good.