Gen 4 JDM Motor Flywheel Difference?

There are pieces missing I believe You're showing the back bolts of the flywheel or where the flywheel would go You're a gen 3 equipment should bolt right up to that just like you took it off your again three engine both of these engines are the same as far as the series goes. Everything should bolt up there's no need to try to use the Gen 4 torque plate unless you have the Gen 4 transmission and that stuff there's no problems with the torque plates really

 

Mine was clean like that too.

 

Is that what the sprag clutch of a Prime looks like?

 

The flow-shutting valve isn't in all Gen 4s, just the ones made for EU and JP markets (as far as I know). If you look up the water outlet fitting on the (US) parts.toyota.com, you get the part number for the one with no flow shutting valve.

The ECU doesn't have any 'read' of the EGR valve position. The actuator is just a stepper motor, and the ECU only drives it. When it wants the valve closed, it just sends a whole lot of drive pulses in the 'close' direction and assumes the valve eventually got there and went no further. Then when it wants the valve opened n steps, assuming it's closed to start with, it just sends n steps in the opening direction. There isn't any actual position feedback to confirm that it worked. (There is a manifold absolute pressure sensor able to detect that something happened; it's used in the test for P0401.)

So you'd be making some kind of stepper-motor interposer that would pass through some proportion of steps and drop some. I guess building that wouldn't be the hard part, but figuring out the right map might be. I'm not enough of a fluid dynamics wiz to even know if the right correction should just be a linear proportion or something else.

 

So my question is are you using the sprag clutch torque plate or are you putting on the normal Gen 3 setup that's on your original engine?

 

It seems to me that the area of greatest need, from the retrofit threads I've read at least, is for somebody to buckle down and determine the actual reason these Gen 4 into Gen 3 retrofits seem invariably to overheat. If I'm not mistaken, it's not all down to the flow shutting valve, and has also plagued people who have used the US-spec water outlet without it (or who have drilled through the flow shutting valve).

I've got a nagging suspicion it's something very fundamental down to the way people are adapting the Gen 4 to Gen 3 plumbing. There seem to be at least a couple different diagrams floating around (this one and this one, one of which clearly has most of the flow indicated backwards and one of which at least looks more plausible) and most overheating threads don't say whether they followed the first one or the second one or did something else.

Sometimes the threads seem to start off promising, but always end up exasperatedly hoping that fifteen more rounds of air burping or cutting the jiggle pin will fix it. Which, from a distance, looks way too much like throwing random actions at a non-understood problem.

It'd be a super-valuable contribution for somebody to get to the actual bottom of that.

 

That line is present in the same regions that get the flow shutting (or, in that diagram, "selector") valve.

As you can see, when the selector valve is shut (and the main thermostat hasn't opened yet), Gen 4 coolant from the block and head goes nowhere. (Except in a small amount, because I believe the selector valve has a small orifice open, even before a person takes a drill to it. ) Instead, the water pump is just pumping coolant right around the engine, through the bypass loop (where it mostly picks up heat from the EHRS and the EGR cooler, while delivering some to the heater and throttle body). This surely hastens warm-up.

The small orifice in the selector valve should allow enough coolant from the engine to be flowing past to ensure the ECT sensor gets a good reading. And when the ECM decides accelerated warmup is no longer needed, or more engine heat is needed for the cabin heater, it can open the selector valve, and then the coolant from the engine gets to participate in the bypass loop (still in competition with the flow coming around the back).

And when the bypass loop is hot enough to open the main thermostat, then the radiator comes into the picture.

That appears to be how the Gen 4 (with selector valve) is meant to work (though I don't know all the ECM's rules for when it opens and closes the selector valve).

I think most people doing the swap are just capping off the extra line at the timing cover, and (I hope) buying the US water outlet without the selector valve. (Drilling the selector valve seems so uncivilized.) That much seems sensible to me.

The post-swap reports all seem to describe such awful cooling behavior, though, that I'm suspecting the answer is going to turn out to be something less subtle than we may be thinking.

 

Maybe I can post a picture, but after the flow shutting valve, there seems to be a Y splitter. The Y has an electrical connector on it, that I suspect is just some sort of sensor. I wonder if you could delete the valve with the US water outlet flange but still include the coolant bypass tube that comes around the back of the motor along with the Y. I'll get a picture later and show you. But then there's no shutoff so I'm not sure how that would, possibly negatively, affect engine temperature.

And if blocking the bypass tube, does it matter where to block it? At the outlet from the timing cover, or at the end of the tube over by the EGR/Coolant outlet?

 

Maybe I can post a picture, but after the flow shutting valve, there seems to be a Y splitter. The Y has an electrical connector on it, that I suspect is just some sort of sensor. I wonder if you could delete the valve with the US water outlet flange but still include the coolant bypass tube that comes around the back of the motor along with the Y. I'll get a picture later and show you. But then there's no shutoff so I'm not sure how that would, possibly negatively, affect engine temperature.

And if blocking the bypass tube, does it matter where to block it? At the outlet from the timing cover, or at the end of the tube over by the EGR/Coolant outlet?

 

Maybe I can post a picture, but after the flow shutting valve, there seems to be a Y splitter. The Y has an electrical connector on it, that I suspect is just some sort of sensor. I wonder if you could delete the valve with the US water outlet flange but still include the coolant bypass tube that comes around the back of the motor along with the Y. I'll get a picture later and show you. But then there's no shutoff so I'm not sure how that would, possibly negatively, affect engine temperature.

And if blocking the bypass tube, does it matter where to block it? At the outlet

 

wait... you took the sprague clutch off Do you still have it?

Do you need or want a lightened flywheel for the Gen 3?

I need that Sprague clutch so that with the Gen 5 swap to Gen 3 Plugin, I can attempt to achieve the higher EV mph like the Prime in my Plugin! With the work I've done to make this swap possible, it has enabled lightened flywheels for the Prius to have been developed.

 

This is correct, heh, lets just say I have many flywheels for the various engines all in the name of attempting to get some performance gains that others haven't attempted to venture into.

 

That's what I was wondering so the plug-in hybrid car has some kind of a sprauge clutch involved . My Italian big bore scooters have this item located in essentially the same area although this is on a motorbike not a motor car but the same principle I was wondering if the Prius plug in used something like this Not sure what this is going to have to do with the Gen 3 but certainly you're going to try to Evie the car like the plug-in hybrid then you're going to need all the bitch and pieces.

 

Differences between V and non V CVT? | PriusChat

I think this is the thread, I thought it was another specific to the Prime and that clutch where the folks here helped me determine in order to get into Prime MPH of 80+ in EV mode, I would need that clutch. I've been holding off on finishing the 2.0L swap with the hopes I can obtain a used one to install and worry about the ECU stuff later just... don't know if I can wait any longer.

 

2litre what engine is that ?

 

the new Gen 5 Prius motor, only I got mine out of a UX250h before it was announced the new Gen 5 would have the same motor.

 

when you press play i made the video start right before the 2.0L stuff