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2016 Prius c 12 V battery dead, how do I recharge it?

Discussion in 'Prius c Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by BeeForToyota, Sep 12, 2023.

  1. BeeForToyota

    BeeForToyota Junior Member

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    I have 2016 Toyota Prius C. I was away in March and did not start the car for 15 days, the battery died. So I jump started, took it to the dealer and they replaced teh battery.
    6 months later I went on another trip for one and half months, the car died again. It does not start. I read online that the 12 V battery is discharged and can be charged.
    Can someone share the steps I should follow?
    Can the 12 battery be charged using a charger? If so can someone please share suggestions of the kind of charger I could use.
    As you know the 2016 model has the 12 v battery under the passenger seat and jumpstart terminals under the hood, where should I connect the terminals from the charger to recharge the battery?
    Any help would be apprecaited?
     
  2. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    You can use the underhood terminals to charge the 12v battery. You should look for a smaller one, or one whose output can be turned down to 2-3 amps.

    Harbor Freight sells a decent one for $29. 2A rating and has reverse polarity protection.
     
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  3. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Battery Tender Jr is about $35 and has an easy to use permanent cable that attaches to your battery and enables quick connects.

    Use for storage situations of ten days or longer even though a new battery can last three weeks.

    IMG_2877.jpeg IMG_2876.jpeg Battery Tender Jr features.jpeg
     
  4. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    I don't consider that charger from Harbor Freight to be "decent".

    While Battery Tender is a good brand, 800 MA max. capacity isn't
    very versatile; it is made mostly for small batteries like motorcycles and
    lawn mowers.

    Something with a 2 to 4 amp capacity is a better choice, in my opinion.

    IF.......you get a good automatic tender type charger......and the car is near a power
    outlet when not being used, then leaving it connected while you are gone would
    be a better plan than what you have been doing.
     
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  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Where was the car for these hiatus, at the airport, at home, and if the latter, what's your parking situation?

    If at all practical, connect a smart charger, rated around 4 amps or less, before your trips.

    I'm using a CTEK 4.3 (believe current itteration is CTEK 5); it's been very dependable. Our usage is very spotty now, as little as one drive per week, albeit decent length, and we try to consolidate shopping/chores with those uses. Yearly usage around 3000 kms.

    Our battery's just past 8 years old now, tests like new. It's on the charger 'round the clock, not detrimental: it runs a charging session, then subsides to light "trickle charge".
     
    #5 Mendel Leisk, Sep 13, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2023
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  6. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    All you have to is supply more than the 30ma the car continuously consumes. Once the car goes to Ready the inverter’s dc to dc does all the 12v heavy lifting up to 100 or more amps.
     
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  7. PriusII&C

    PriusII&C Active Member

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    Actually the first step is to measure your battery voltage. If it is very low (say, below 9V), many of the smart charger with limited capacity (a few amperes) may not be able to revive it. You may need a stronger charger to start with, or parallel connect your battery with another fully charged battery, then charge it with a smarter charger.
     
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  8. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    What will it take to get you to STOP using that incorrect terminology ??

    It does NOT "trickle charge".

    It does drop to the "float" voltage step in the automatic routine or stop charging completely
    as it monitors the need for additional charge.....depending on the model of smart charger.
     
  9. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    When do we get to vote?​

    IMG_2897.jpeg
     
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Sorry Sam.
     
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  11. BeeForToyota

    BeeForToyota Junior Member

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    Hello, My sincere thanks to everyone for your suggestions and advice. I'm happy to share that the issue has been resolved. The dealer replaced the battery free of charge, which unfortunately caused the aftermarket alarm remote lock to become very loud when locking and unlocking. I opted to have it disconnected rather than paying over $500 for wiring removal. The noise is now gone, and the battery is functioning well. Since then, I’ve taken two extended trips without any issues.

    However, I’m now facing a new problem with the standard keyless entry key fob. I tried replacing the battery, but it didn’t help. I noticed that CarandTruck sells an aftermarket replacement—would you recommend trying that?
    I read some horror stories about using replacement fobs and having to change the entire module.
    I can still open the car manually with the key but cannot use a remote lock/unlock.

    Thank you again for your support.
     
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  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    did you try the other fob?
     
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  13. ColoradoBoo

    ColoradoBoo Senior Member

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    So trickle is banned? Noted!

    I once had a Pastor who was very old-fashioned and hated the word "sexy" so I was sure to use it around him at every opportunity! (It's just how I roll.....maybe I'm trickle charged!)
     
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  14. BeeForToyota

    BeeForToyota Junior Member

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    I currently have just one fob, which also has a key attached to it. The additional key is simply a standalone key.
     

    Attached Files:

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  15. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    One of the (thankfully few) common failure points in the Prius c are the electromechanical door lock actuators. It is quite possible that your key fob is transmitting a good signal, the car is receiving the signal and putting some voltage down the door wires to flip the lock, but the actuator at the end of the chain simply isn't doing anything.

    Check that out before spending money on new keys.

    You might try using the double-click unlock on the fob to unlock all doors, then try them all. Fairly unlikely that all actuators will have died at the same time.
     
  16. BeeForToyota

    BeeForToyota Junior Member

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    thanks for the suggestions
    When I click the buttons on the fob, they do not do anything. How do I check the actuators?
     
  17. BeeForToyota

    BeeForToyota Junior Member

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  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    even a mediocre 12 volt can be a problem, or the replacement fob battery could be bad.
     
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  19. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    You can check them using the door lock/unlock button on the door itself. Roll down your window ahead of time, reach in to push the door lock button. Test the doors to see if they locked. Then hit the unlock button, and see if they all unlock correctly.

    You can also test your transmitter- some locksmiths and hardware stores have radio frequency field strength meters, usually right next to the replacement coin battery rack.

    They aren't terribly specific tests, all they do is light up when there's a sufficiently strong radio transmitter active near them. The idea is that if you hold your key up close and push the button, you should see the lights blink on the tester. The tester has no way of knowing if the radio codes being sent are accurate, on the correct frequency or anything like that, but it's a simple test that you can generally access for free.
     
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  20. BeeForToyota

    BeeForToyota Junior Member

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    Thank you.