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Gen3 Booster and Actuator

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Radioactivelight, Aug 16, 2023.

  1. Radioactivelight

    Radioactivelight New Member

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    I have questions….
    I plan on replacing the Booster and Actuator myself.

    I’m fairly handy under the hood, I just removed all the battery busbars, cleaned, polished and replaced them. I got rid of the corrosion and cleaned the filter and fan.

    My blown inverter is being replaced for free because I never got the softwares update.

    My tip to you is don’t rush to the dealership for the recall to update the hybrid system software!
    If you get the update and then the inverter breaks you have to pay for it.
    If it breaks before the update is installed on your car Toyota covers the repair!

    Now back to the brakes…

    DTCs C1253 C1256 C1391

    What are my choices for an inexpensive scan tool that does the bleeding and linear valve offset?

    Has anyone tried the Ancel TD700? ($130) or any Ancel scanner?

    Do you have any suggestions for buying Techstream cord and software? What worked for you? Vender name?

    I’d like to hear from anyone who has done this job and find out what you used?

    I’d like an under $200 scanner that works on all brands but most importantly my Prius and I’d like it to handle all the technical stuff like the brake service and keyfobs to name a couple.


    I’ve been told by a dealership that I need:
    47050-47310
    47070-47060

    Why are there so many part numbers for these two items?
    I have a 2015 Prius 3 15in wheels 164,000miles
    JTDKN3DU1F0467350

    What part numbers do you suggest and why?

    Are these parts fairly interchangeable?
    Is there one that is beefed up? More reliable?latest version?

    I suspect the internal software in the part itself has to match the car, but I don’t know this to be true?

    Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated!

    I’m on my second Gen3, my 2010 went 250,000miles before the first thing broke.
    All I did was oil changes, brake pads and tires.
    And my oil changes were few and far between.
    The AC broke so I upgraded to a 2015.
     
  2. Radioactivelight

    Radioactivelight New Member

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    I did my brake booster and pump yesterday, fixed my 2015, Prius three
    I used Toyota Techstream that I bought off of eBay for relatively cheap
    There was a hiccup using Techstream that was cured by unplugging the battery and then trying again
    It’s not an easy job, but it’s not impossible to do, there are a few good YouTube videos

    My question is, I bought my parts from Bam automotive, my box for the pump had the part number 47070–47060
    But the part itself had this part number printed on it 47070–47050
    My question is, did I receive an inferior part?
    Did they swap out the more current updated model with an older less robust pump?
    It’s nearly impossible to get the answers on the Internet


    If anybody is thinking about doing this repair, please feel free to ask me questions.
     

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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Just to make sure parts are called the right names on PriusChat ... there are two things under the hood there:

    [​IMG]

    The top one there is the Booster, and also the Actuator (and also the Master Cylinder, and also the ECU).

    The bottom one there is the Booster Pump (and that's a different thing than the Booster), and also the Accumulator.

    And a lot of questions get posted here about part numbers, particularly because Toyota has this way of sometimes putting a number physically on a part, that looks just the same as Toyota part numbers do, but is not the part number for the part. Annoying, but just something to get used to. I had to get used to it with Ford also.

    And of course that's made worse by eBay and Amazon sellers all reading whatever number they see on the part and listing it as the part number. So you're right, it's pretty much impossible to get good answers from the internet.

    If you have the chance to order a brand new part from a Toyota dealer and see the part number you ordered on the box, and then compare to whatever maybe-or-maybe-not part number is on the part itself, sometimes at least you figure out what number on the part goes with what actual part number.
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the only issue on not doing the inverter recall (i haven't) is that it can die in a dangerous situation
     
  5. Radioactivelight

    Radioactivelight New Member

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    It happened to me, I had a semi truck behind me, but it wasn’t as bad as they make it out to be.

    I just immediately pulled off to the side

    But it was very unexpected

    if I had to pay for that repair it would’ve been around $4000
     
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  6. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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  7. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    I am confused and devastated! My Toyota dealed quoted me $1143.68 for the master cylinder (47050-47140) and $1115.80 for the pump (47070-47060). That is $2379.23 for parts, after tax and $4112 with tax and labor included. The same part numbers are $1080.52 for both parts at other online dealers. (Less than half price) So, you are saying that if I buy the parts online (for my 2010 level IV) that I will not know what I am getting unless it has a part number on the box? (I need to tell the dealer to label the box for the correct part.) That would eliminate ebay and junk yard parts. Please clarify.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    The softwares intent is to better protect the inverter? So you go with Toyota’s advice, get the update, and any subsequent inverter failure is your fault?

    why would that be?
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    As you rightly suspect, there is no such catch-22. The terms of the Customer Confidence Programs are covered here. There's nothing there about needing non-updated firmware.
     
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  10. Mushtaq M

    Mushtaq M Junior Member

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    My pump goes on every second brake pedal press. I have checked the pump for resistance checks as per the manual and it looks fine. I am thinking of replacing the brake booster and get a local garage equipped with Software tool to bleed the system as per the manufacturers recommendations

    @Mendel Leisk , @ASRDogman , @Tombukt2 and other senior members - Do you know of any good links on Prius chat or youtube that helps with tackling as DIYing brake actuator replacement. I am thinking afterwards in getting local reputable mechanic shop to bleed the brake system using software.
     
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Wrong. They still change it assuming you have the right codes.

    That is the housing code not the part number.

    Since the ecu inside has specific software, the part number changes. If buying from an online Toyota dealer you will get the right parts as long as you supply your car’s vin. Otherwise used parts are risky considering the large amount of labor involved. We have seen some try three times. If you “have” to try used, be sure to get the donor car’s vin and check its brake booster part numbers against your vin specified part number.

    I would not change it based on this symptom alone. If you hear it running every 15 seconds or more then the end is near. It has to run periodically after you use the brakes.
     
  12. Mushtaq M

    Mushtaq M Junior Member

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    @rjparker
    thanks its now at a point the pump runs frequently every second time you had the pedal means its loosing the pressure every time i hit the breaks. This i thought was a clear sign of the module starting to fail. I have already checked the pump using a volt meter resistance check suggested on the Toyota manual its all within specs and the fact the the pump is running and pressurizing every time seems to suggest the problem is with the main module that houses the master cylinder

    i have found a reliable used JDM parts for 3rd Gen Prius. He is able to source the correct matching part once i confirm the number on my actuator. I think i need to get the actuator out as i cannot read the number in Situ
     
  13. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Good luck
     
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    No, it's using the pressure every time you hit the brakes. That's what it's there for.

    I'm not sure how many times I hit the brakes in mine before the pump runs, but every two or three times is not out of the ballpark. It also depends on how hard you apply the brakes each time. (That's what uses the pressure!)

    If you have no trouble codes, no braking symptoms, no repeated running of the pump when you're not braking, I would not be concerned about it at this point.
     
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  16. Mushtaq M

    Mushtaq M Junior Member

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    @Mendel Leisk Thank You yuo always come out with some good documents and the youtube link.- Thats a very helpful document with details on the pump assembly replacement. it alse shows the label of the pump is the way to check affected pumps
     
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  17. Mushtaq M

    Mushtaq M Junior Member

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    @ChapmanF - Thank you i am starting to question if i even have an issue here. I may have been a bit over cautious. One thing i did find out reading more documents on the issue . Brake fluid leaks or brake drag also can affect i may check for this in the first instance
     
  18. labryan7

    labryan7 New Member

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    I assume you have to do the calibration since it's a different master cylinder? I have C1252, C1253, C1256 and I found a electronic shop to rebuild the brake booster/accumulator and want to try it first before replacing the master cylinder. I can hear my pump every 10 seconds.
     
  19. Eric Allen

    Eric Allen New Member

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    I am a new member with a 2010 Prius that seems to run fine, but: the booster pump is running every 10 seconds. I have no warning lights coming on. I have watched numerous videos and feel I can do the work of replacing the actuator/brake booster assembly (and/or the booster pump and accumulator), and I have decided I should buy the part new, from Toyota, so I don’t have to worry about used part age or match. I am only going to replace the actuator to start. My concern is, how I can bleed the system correctly.
    1. Do I need to buy a scanner? If so, which one? ( I hope to keep this car for 10 more years so I would like to get a scanner that would be useful in the future ).
    2. If I get a scanner, will I still need the Techstream software?
    3. I have read that I can purchase 2 days of techstream (from Toyota) and download it to a laptop. Would that alone (ie without a scanner) solve my bleeding issue?
    Thanks, in advance, for any help!!
     
  20. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You would need to get a working cable, which is a 50/50 chance and install a pirated copy of
    techstream.
    It's all touch and go and very tricky. Most people seem to NOT be able to finish the bleeding
    process with it.

    I purchased the XTools D8 scanner. It will do everything techstream will do, and more.
    It will also work with other vehicles. I've used it several times and it works well.
    I've never done the brake bleed with it, yet.

    You can find it on ebay. I was lucky and found an open box one. It was under $500.