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Weird Overheating Issue

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by JimJitsu, Aug 21, 2023.

  1. JimJitsu

    JimJitsu Junior Member

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    Hello everyone. Long-time lurker, first-time poster. This is a long post, but I'm stumped, so here is all of the info. I've got a 2014 Prius with approximately 270,000 miles on it.

    Original Issue

    About a month ago, the temperature warning light came on as I was coming down a large hill after driving about 100 miles with no issues up and down hilly areas. I saw the light come on and I was about half-way DOWN a 1-mile steep decline. To my knowledge, the light had never come on in the past and it only came on for around 10 seconds.

    The light never came on again and I made it home. I checked the coolant and it was low (there may have been coolant around the reservoir, but it was raining so I may not have noticed). I topped it off and continued to drive it, checking the coolant before and after every trip more than a mile or two and it was fine, though I did not take it on the freeway much and generally was driving under 50 mph.

    About a week later, after doing a 120-mile round-trip drive to the airport (including up some steep grades where I watched for the light like a hawk just in case), the light came on again about 2 miles from my house. I slowed down and it went off, then it came on again a mile later, I slowed down some more, it went off, etc. until I was driving 40 mph the last half mile on the freeway. When I got home, I took a look and there was coolant all over the outside of the reservoir and it was half gone.

    I topped it off and called my usual shop, but they couldn't get me in for several days. Out of necessity, I continued to drive it at low speeds without issue for trips of a mile or less, except even then the same thing happened one time after several short trips in a row. Half the coolant came out of the top of the tank and got all over the day before I took it into the shop.

    Repair

    I asked the shop to perform a leak test to check the head gasket, though I could see where the coolant was going, so that was unlikely the culprit. They agreed and it passed. They eventually diagnosed it as a bad water pump and thermostat, which I expected was coming. They wanted to charge me $1,400 to do the job, but I did it myself with a new OEM pump and thermostat for less than $300. I discovered that the thermostat was indeed stuck open, so I assumed that was the problem.

    The water pump looked ok, spinning freely with no evidence of cracks or broken off bits and there was never any check engine light or codes, but I changed that too to be safe.

    The car has been running fine with no issues for two weeks of local freeway driving and I also have been using an ODBII reader to monitor the temperature. The highest I've been able to get it is 206 degrees by pushing it, but then it drops, usually hovering in the 190's.

    Overheating Again Yesterday

    Yesterday, I drove 80 miles to a Jiu Jitsu tournament and was monitoring the temperature the whole way, since it was my first long trip since the repair. It performed great and there were no issues. Highest I got to was 203 on the long, uphill grade where the issue first appeared.

    However, on the drive home just one mile after leaving after sitting in a parking garage for 11 hours, and less than 10 minutes after starting the car while driving on flat ground, the temperature warning light came on again. The ODBII reader was reading just 186 degrees and when I slowed down, the light went off. I pulled over and checked the coolant ant it was still full. I got back on the freeway and drove it the 80 miles home without any further incidents. When I got home, I again checked the coolant and it is still full.

    Questions

    I'm at a loss here as to what could be going on.

    1. It really seemed like it was the thermostat and that's been changed. The only other obvious answer is the water pump, which is also new, so...?

    2. The temperature warning light came on, but it was only at 186 degrees, so why would it even come on? Isn't the light triggered directly by this value? I know that sometimes mechanical things can cause this light to come on, but then wouldn't there be a check engine light or code thrown?

    3. If it was a faulty sensor, then the temperature would be reading "wrong," but still high and here it wasn't even in the overheating range, so that doesn't seem likely.

    4. I suppose it could be an air bubble, but I bled it pretty good in maintenance mode after I changed everything and refilled the coolant. Plus, this wouldn't have been the cause before I did the repairs.

    Any ideas?
     
  2. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Can you please give a short history of the car.
    1. When did you buy it?
    2. Any problems with the head gasket or stop leak added to the coolant?
    3. Was the engine coolant replaced at the recommended 100,000 miles and every 50,0000 miles after the initial change?
    4. Etc.

    The high temperature warning light can be triggered by two separate sensors. One is the sensor that you can see with the OBD2 reader. @ChapmanF has described this in other threads on this forum. Do a search to see if you can find the thread, or maybe he will see this thread and explain it here.

    A thermostat that is stuck open will not cause an engine to overheat, but a thermostat that is stuck closed will cause overheating.

    Like you said, maybe there is air trapped in the coolant system.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #2 Brian1954, Aug 21, 2023
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2023
  3. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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    If your problem has not read a code, almost positive that your engine water pump is on its way out.

    In my case the high temp came on for a quick flicker then turned off. Happened again. Took it to my mechanic and read the code for the pump, which was starting to fail.

    you see the temp light come on again, get it read and you can be sure.
     
  4. AzusaPrius

    AzusaPrius Senior Member

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    @Brian1954

    Actually a thermostat that is stuck open will eventually allow an engine to overheat.

    As the coolant just circulates and continues to heat up depending on the use, it will overheat.

    The point of the thermostat is to keep coolant in the radiator long enough to cool down and then get released to keep optimum temperature.

    Free flowing coolant will always get to temp no matter what temp that is and have no chance to cool down.
     
  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I hate those pesky coolant ants.

    Seriously, do your radiator fans run? Generally they will run with the AC but a bidirectional scanner test is better.

    Has anyone put a sealer in the coolant? They are known to clog radiators and thermostats and are not that easy to flush out.

    Verify your inverter pump is good as well. Should see movement in its reservoir. Perhaps you are now getting a hybrid temperature warning, which usually produces codes and lights the hybrid system car icon.

    IMG_2652.jpeg
     
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I was under the impression that when a thermostat is stuck open it will still maintain pretty much operating temperature because it's still passing through the calibrated plate which is the hole that's exposed when the silicone or wax pellet is heated and the spring lifts the opening portion of the thermostat up to its maximum opening that opening is a certain size and with that sucker open all day long it should still maintain operating temperature now if you remove the thermostat and you have that 2-in hole wide open then yes the coolant could move so fast that it could not dwell in the radiator long enough to lose the heat but with the thermostat in place and it stuck open it should maintain its normal 186 to 205 or whatever it is no problem at least that's what I've noticed in all other cars that I've removed thermostats in the old days put restrictor plates in which is basically a good and thermostat but using the plate so nothing will open and close anymore just water will flow through that plate that's what NASCAR cars use or used to use.
     
  7. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    What ???????

    I think you need to do a little searching on the internet to learn the function of a thermostat in an internal combustion engine. It is not used to limit the coolant flow through the radiator. It is used to limit the coolant flow through the engine so that the engine heats up to optimum operating temperature.

    I agree with you that coolant can flow too fast through a radiator so that there is not enough time for the heat to be transferred to the copper or aluminum radiator fins and then to the air that is flowing through the radiator, but I am sure that the Toyota engineers designed the pump to create the correct coolant flow rate through a Prius size radiator. I learned this in thermodynamic classes in my first and second years in college.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #7 Brian1954, Aug 22, 2023
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2023
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    The thermostat assembly is sized to the amount of coolant flow that's going to need to run through the pipe which is going to feed the radiator which with the amount of flow passing through the pipe passing through the radiator and then to the other pipe going back to the engine all that is calculated to provide a certain amount of dwell time of the fluid in the radiator part of fluid dynamics and all this kind of nonsense No I don't study it. But I do know about restrictor plates that were put in the waterways of NASCAR automobiles I'm in the middle of NASCAR country and have NASCAR garages all around me. Back in the early days of Hilux trucks I had a Hilux truck with a 3-in thick aluminum radiator called the desert cooler and the thermostat that was removed and a plate was put in place of the thermostat I believe it was a 3/4-in hole so that that hole that used to house the thermostat now had a plate in it with no wax pellet no device lifting up or down closing or opening the hole and in that plate was drilled I believe it was a 3/4-in hole thermostat housing and hose and all that go back on now with that setup no matter what went on that engine ran about 180° 183 even in the winter it warmed up reasonably quick and had heat in 5 minutes something like that. How all that was calculated I have no idea doesn't matter I also had removed the fan clutch and added an electric fan this is like 1984 something like that We had an engine in the truck that wasn't available in the United States. And it was being used out in Baja this is in the days when TRD was just being founded they were in a little hole in the wall shop in Torrance California and I'm talking about a little place.
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    When the full Physics According to Azusa comes out, it's gonna be a sensation.

    If thermodynamics worked like that, I'm not sure how any existing thermostat would be smart enough to cope. All they are is a pellet of wax that expands and permits more flow whenever the temperature is higher.

    Teaching that wax pellet how it really needs to keep the coolant in the radiator to cool down might be even harder than teaching an old dog new tricks.
     
    Brian1954 likes this.
  10. JimJitsu

    JimJitsu Junior Member

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    **** UPDATE ****

    After doing some digging, I was able to figure out that there are TWO sensors that can trigger the temp warning light. My app was already monitoring the "7C4" sensor, but not the "7C0" one. I added the 7C0 and finally have some more information, though even that's weird.

    I was able to make the light come on again yesterday leaving work with all sensors loaded up. On the freeway, the 7C4 was normal and didn't get above 190, but the 7C0 started shooting up about a mile into my drive (from a cold start after it had been sitting for 8 hours). It reached 248 degrees, the light went off and I let off the gas. It immediately started going down really fast and eventually settled around 205 degrees, never going up again even with hard acceleration.

    This morning on the way to work, the temperatures were fine, but then when I hit the freeway the 7C0 temperatures started jumping 10, 20 and even 30 degrees at a time (7C4 stayed normal and was barely even going up). It was about to hit 248, but then I hit traffic and it rapidly went down to 195 and stayed there the rest of my drive.

    Does this make any sense or sound familiar to anyone?
     
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    When the aging hippy writes the definitive Prius book I will gladly buy the audiobook version.

    IMG_2656.jpeg
     
  12. JimJitsu

    JimJitsu Junior Member

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    Does anybody know for sure which sensor the $7C4 and $7C0 each correspond to? I've found a lot of guesses and inferences, but haven't found any outright explanation of which is which.
     
  13. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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  14. JimJitsu

    JimJitsu Junior Member

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    1. Six years ago
    2. Not to my knowledge
    3. Not sure
     
  15. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    And post 5 (or we will just ramble about thermostats and audiobooks)
     
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  16. JimJitsu

    JimJitsu Junior Member

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    Sorry. I tried to respond to these posts, but the responses didn't post because I'm not allowed to "post links" yet, which the original posts I was replying to apparently had.

    1. The radiator fans were running when I bleed off after re-filling the coolant, though it took over 30 minutes for them to come on, which surprised me but apparently is normal.

    2. No idea about the sealer.

    3. I don't think it's the inverter pump, based on the new information I got about the $7C0 sensor that appears to be what's setting it off. Also, I was monitoring the inverter values and the all seemed to be within normal operating range.
     
  17. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I don't know those sensors by those 7C0 / 7C4 addresses, but one of them is the usual engine coolant temperature sensor, screwed into the cylinder head, and the other is for the coolant loop through the exhaust heat recovery system (that sensor screws into a fitting in a bend of hose that comes up behind the engine from the exhaust system below).

    I wrote in some earlier thread that there's "only one" thermostat. I meant the one in the engine, but down by the exhaust heat exchanger on the exhaust pipe there is a second thermostat-like thing. Its job, when the wax expands, is to push a rod that closes off that heat exchanger path, once the coolant is warm enough already to not need any extra heat from the exhaust.

    If that guy isn't doing his job, I could see that reading going up, up, up when the driving conditions make a lot of hot exhaust.
     
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  18. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Not sure anyone knows since Techstream doesn’t label them that way.

    A guy could monitor both with his scanner that shows $7C4 and $7C0 and then pull off the connector to the one on top that is easier to get. Then report back.

    IMG_2666.jpeg
     
  19. Rrrolfff

    Rrrolfff Junior Member

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    I had very similar issues. If there's no coolant leaking, it's going into the engine via the head gasket. That's the only way to lose coolant. This doesn't mean you need a new engine today - but it means you need to watch the fluid level. My coolant got low, that's I'm sure what caused the sensor to start acting up. Sometimes it worked, others not, others bad readings.

    I have a small head leak, but it's gone 30k miles without fault (except a little extra added coolant).

    Just my take - your mileage may be better (since I'm running a 150k battery pack).
     
  20. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    When you replaced the engine coolant pump and thermostat, did you use new coolant when you filled it up, or did you refill it with the coolant that you drained out? I know this is not related to your overheating problem, I am just curious.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.