2 Bolts Sheared off on Intake Manifold when trying to reinstall

My approach is always to make sure that screws bolts whatever Go in my hand in the designated threads they're going to go in when assembling the pieces while the engine parts are off the car intake manifolds off the car I check my bolts in each one of those holes that I can put them in finger tight If I can't I clean them off and or I chase the thread holes with the thing called the tap either a blind hole tap or the pointed one depending upon the type of hole I'm dealing with there are a few until those threaded fasteners can be screwed in by my hand strength pretty much all the way in and me take them out with just my fingers they're not getting assembled by my tools I haven't used the torque wrench in 35 years there's three of them sitting in the drawer oh well I've been assembling Toyota engine since I don't know 20 years old something like that so it's kind of second nature but that's neither here nor there but for the machine is handbook for threaded fasteners and all that they should be able to offer up be screwed up and removed by your fingers first before anything is assembled or reinstalled It's always work for me so I guess we just continue to do it doesn't seem to be any slower takes a few seconds to do that to the holes before you start offering up parts and breaking bolts now you've got to get out the drill the left hand drill bits if you know what all that's about and have at it.

 

Good to know and thanks for the links as always Mendel.

I just found a mess of sludge in my EGR Pipe and Intake circuit from over filling my oil I'm guessing. I didn't take the time to drain back down or wait until settled to confirm. I put about 500ml in from a half level.

I'm suspecting using a bottle of Techron in two full tanks in a row maybe also as cause? I can't complain with ~288K miles on this 2013 though and maybe last performed around 150K or sometime I don't recall and the dealer performed the intake change and cleaning I guess for recall or warranty or original contract service.

I also would have thought the PCV Valve was the sole suspect, though after seeing the sludge in my EGR Pipe, I'm guessing the Techron did it or the overfill of oil or all three. The PCV Valve was definitely stuck with not rattle at first and barely any without a struggle to shake a few. Hard carbon deposit in the PCV Valve tube as well.

Well, now I have to torque specs so will head back out to clean the head intake ports which are a sludge fest albeit with nice clean injectors and where those spray.

Thinking I'm not going to get away with an easy in place EGR Cooler cleaning or not doing at all with the gas oil sludge present where I guess the gas and oil is from the P0301 and P0304 codes incidents. No more carbon compact buildup. That sludge will turn into hard carbon if I don't remove I'm guessing?

On another note, anyone know if the 25620-37110 EGR Valve can be swapped in when a 25620-37120 part number is already installed?

I lucked out finding a yard 54 ending part intake manifold, though the EGR circuit valve is the previous revision part number.

 

This exact same thing happened to me two days ago. Torque wrench didn’t click, meaning I wasn’t even close to 21 ft lbs, and one of the mounting bolts snapped right off as I was tightening the nut.

Any idea of the part number to order a replacement?

 

That stud if you call the Toyota dealer he'll tell you the part number right over the phone it's probably $3.30 or something silly You want the intake manifold stud not the bolts a nut goes on a stud a bolt has a protrusion with threads on it to go in a hole with the same threads I do not know the part number off the top of my head You can probably also buy the stud from a decent auto parts store You would need to know the metric size of it which the Toyota dealer or amiyama or anybody with schematics online will probably show

 

Any hardware store also will have a thread gauge, usually hanging on a string back near where the bolts are, where you can thread in your broken-off piece of stud and say "oh, yes, it's one of those".

Just make sure to use the metric thread gauge. There are certain sizes and pitches of metric thread that will also manage to go into a non-metric thread gauge, so in those cases you have to use your additional knowledge (like "this came out of a Toyota and it's not going to be non-metric*") to make the right choice.

But still, I'd just go to the dealer and get the stud that goes there. It won't cost a lot, and anything else you get is going to stick out for different length or different plating or what not, and look like you went hunting in the junk drawer.

* exception being their oil pressure switches, which for some reason use a British pipe thread standard, of all things.

 

I remember in elementary school in 1977 our teacher told us we're joining the rest of the world and adopting metric and giving up so called, "Standard." But never happened. So how about we create a third way to measure things so it could be even more confusing?

 

@Mendel Leisk kindly shared the official instructions. There’s a “hint” and that made a connection after reading it. The hint basically states that if anything looks afoul with the bolts and or studs to replace them, like damaged threads and/or bent. It’s hard to tell from the angle but that stud in the image doesn’t look straight.

As noted Aluminum bolts are one time use, as they are “torqued to yield”. Toyota would have put the ️ for that. (Hopefully you replaced all gaskets with that dot)?

 

None of the fasteners between intake manifold and cylinder head are aluminum AFAIK. It's a little puzzling that you'd break one, with a torque wrench at 21 ft-lbs. Could anyone have had the manifold off, over-tightened the fasteners?.

@ChapmanF asks a good question early in this thread: what's your torque wrench size (1/2, 3/8, or 1/4 drive?) and torque range? If it's a 1/2" with 20~150 ft-lb range, it's not unusual for torque wrenches to be off near their limits. Still...

 

Want to snap a bolt off use a torque wrench. At the very least if you must use a T wrench on something test it on a tire lug nut first there at least good for 90 lbs.

There's nothing on a car that needs a torque wrench precision except the cylinder head bolts then its pattern and torque.

Cheap torque wrenches are a disaster they have vague feedback. It doesn't help that some people on this site are obsessed with T wrench's since they do not have alot of wrenching experience and are extremely OCD.

Its not going to war just tighten it down. I have a nice Snap On T wrench haven't used it in years nothing but trouble.

 

Yep no need a that one .. tq wrench has been in it's presentation case all its life. Ready for e bay it's 40 plus years old.

 

I'll take that torque wrench if you don't want it.
There is torque for a reason. Just because someone misreads the amount doesn't mean it's bad.
Good for hubs, and clutches....

And not using it correctly doesn't help. Walfart does NOT know how to use a torque wrench.
THEY ARE HORRIBLE! They bounce on it! They always stripped out the lug bolts on my van.
They over torque, and then have two other people bounce on the wrench again!!!!

I had the wheels swopped and balanced yesterday. I had to remind them 76ft# not 90!!!!
And do not BOUNCE the wrench!!!! I really just want to break them all loose and torque
correctly right in the parking lot! But I wait an hour after I get home to do it.

Plus, nuts and bolts get old, and weak, so the normal torque is no longer good for it.

 

New model egr valve has longer pin bolts than in old model and appear same as those IM bolts. Impossible to install inner nut without loosening cooler and that famous ”nut from h*ll”. Decided to try winding the bolt deeper because the holes are through holes. Bad idea. It went in to some extend but not enough. Used quite a lot of force. Did not even cross my mind that bolt would snap. Those snapped IM bolts must have suffered from some fatigue. They’ve been loose?

edit: Must say OP has been very lucky because those bolts seem easily replaceable. When i have had snapped bolts they’ve usually been nightmare to replace. Drilling and other fun stuff involved

 

I have a digital and analog mail scale (I think they're for mail or at least fish) that I used to test my torque wrenches before using.

I've debated back and forth to measure mount in the vise and add known weights since I have almost enough for the higher range and enough for the lower and mid range.

Remember to measure back 1ft from the pivot point. You can also make a spreadsheet to see the performance at different locations to the 1ft (12in) reference. If you don't feel like adjusting, I've thought about using colored tape with some info that won't last since will rub away. Now thinking a label maker I guess?

 

What's a torque wrench (smirk)