Please show me where the floor jack suppose to go!

You have to jack up the car much higher to get the unloaded wheels off the ground. I find the rear jacking point less than ideal, due to its off-center position, raising one side of the car higher than the other. Makes placing jackstands a bit harder, having to move from one side of the car to the other, while the car is lowered to ensure that the car comes down on the intended support points.

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I was on a tight schedule today. Hadn’t anticipated finding the front jack point was going to be a research project.

 

Wow, you’re not kidding. I just got under the car to take a look. If a good few inches to the left of center. Too bad the exhaust pipe wasn’t moved to accommodate centering the rear jack point.

 

Made my own adapter.

I had some 5 x 5 x 0.25 inch steel plates from a project I never completed.

Ordered this:

METALLIXITY Solid Aluminum Disc (M10x55mmx10mm) 4Pcs, Glass Table Top Adapter Aluminum Circle Disc - for Tea Bar, and Other Glass Furniture Accessories https://a.co/d/bzLAHbO

Also, ordered some M10 bolts.

Drilled through the aluminum disc and steel plate, tapped the steel plate and the rest of the aluminum disc so both were threaded through.

I also purchased some 0.25 inch HDPE sheet, but haven't decided whether or not it is needed to go between the disc and steel plate to protect the paint on the suspension when jacking.

I found that a 10mm unset rivet nut threaded over the M10 bolt threads is the perfect adapter to fit into the hole in my small 2 ton jack.

If I ever want to use my larger floor jack, I can substitute a shorter M10 bolt that sits flush with the steel plate so that the adapter will sit flat on the rubber pad on my floor jack head.

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Mine is made of PEEK or polyetheretherketone plastic. PEEK is a ceramic amorphous high temperature plastic that is replacing alum and titanium in mant aerospace and medical implant applications. It is one of the most stable, most durable and probably the most expensive commercially available plastics.

Mine is made to fit any of the inexpensive two ton trolley jacks like the $33 one sold at Walmart, as well as any of the widely available flat top low profile racing jacks.

It is made to fit into the center hole of the Generation 3 Prius lower spring mounts, as well as ant TNGA Toyota including the Gen 4 Prius, the Gen 5 Prius, the Corolla, the Camry, the RAV 4, the Sienna, the Venza and all others.

Photos are uploaded for some of these rear spring suspension spring mounts.

 

I was surprised that my 2016 Toyota Corolla S plus does not have the rear suspension with the round holes.


Our 2010 Toyota Camry SE and 2011 Toyota Prius has the rear suspension with the round holes.

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Added a 1/8 inch high density polyethylene (HDPE) layer on the 1/4 inch steel plate to protect the finish on the suspension when jacking.

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I love those adapters for lifting at the spring!! Point of clarification, though. When you lift the car at the usual jack points, it's not the spring that's supporting the wheel and axel once the tire leaves the ground, it is the shock absorber. Pull that bolt out of the bottom and the axel and wheel will drop allowing the insertion of a lift kit spacer. (Just be sure to first remove any clamps that might be holding brake likes or wheel speed sensors to the axel so they don't get broken.)

 

I just saw this thread and interestingly I've always done my own summer/winter tire trades. Every time I jack it from the suspension arm. Front or rear. I've always done this for a couple of reasons: the suspension arm is made to carry that weight, it's extremely heavy duty, and if something slips it isn't going to wreck the bottom of the car.

 

I ended up purchasing low profile ramps to lift the front end (barely) high enough for me to reach the oil drain plug and filter. My original plan was to get the car on the ramps, then raise it further from the front jack point. When I slid my borescope under the Prime I couldn’t convince myself that there was a crossmember directly on the other side of the metal underbody panel where I believed the jack point was. There appeared to be an eighth to quarter inch air gap between the two so I didn’t want to chance it. I don’t understand why Toyota had to make the front jack point near impossible to find. Why didn’t they clearly mark it?

I’m fairly skinny, and it ended up being a tight squeeze to reach the plastic panel, drain bolt, and filter. But it’s doable with low profile 2.75” ramps.

 

My routine of up in the air, is to drive up on ramps, Jack up the back then I slide in the jack stands. Then I Jack the front and slid in two jack stands on the side.





I leave the car with the weigh spread out on 2 jack and 4 jack stands. I am on an incline here so more is better.

 

This is what I do as well. For the same reasons. I've bent jack points in the past because they weren't strong enough to carry the weight of the car. I don't know why manufacturers make it so damn difficult to have solid jack points when it is a requirement to lift cars to do work to them.