Keeps going into Traction battery protection.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Kats_Pajamaz, Jun 28, 2023.

  1. Kats_Pajamaz

    Kats_Pajamaz Junior Member

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    It's been a while since the last update on this, but I was dealing with getting the traction battery charged up enough to even attempt to start the ICU, and between that and work, it has taken quite a while.

    I did end up changing the crankshaft position sensor. Once I was able to attempt to start the car, the ICU does seem to be turning on, and the crankshaft position sensor code has become inactive.

    With that being said, the ICU seems to kick on for about 30ish seconds, then turns off. after about 30-60 seconds it will kick back on, but it doesn't seem to be charging my traction battery. I wasn't sure if maybe the ECU just needed time to figure stuff out, so I let it run for a little while, but then I got the traction battery protection mode again.

    Using my OBD2 app, the only code that I was getting was P3000. I am a little confused though, because if my traction battery is low, even if it is going bad and won't stay charged, wouldn't that mean the ICU would just stay on once it kicks on, instead of cycling? Am I correct in assuming this is probably still an engine problem, and not necessarily the traction battery?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    P3000 is a very generic code. Usually, there will be other codes at the same time giving a more specific cause. At the very least, a scan tool that shows the "INF" subcode for the P3000 would be helpful.
     
  3. Kats_Pajamaz

    Kats_Pajamaz Junior Member

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    It looks like I will have to get a knockoff techstream so I can read the subcodes.

    With that being said, I feel like I am missing something that may be obvious to somebody more experienced with cars. After I had charged and balanced my traction battery and reinstalled it, the car came on, and I was able to put it into drive and scoot it forward abouyt 10 feet(it was a little in the way in my parking lot). The ICE also kicked on (or I think it was kicking on. It might have just been the HV battery trying to spin up to get the ICE started.) After a little bit, the traction battery went into traction battery protection mode because it was getting low.

    I guess what I don't fully know if I understand is, even with a P3000 code, if the traction battery starts, and tries to spin up the ICE, wouldn't the ICE still start at that point if there were no other issues? Once the ICE is running, shouldn't I be good to go? I am just feeling really lost here with the ICE not seeming to kick on and stay on, but also not having any codes that seem to actually be related to the ICE.
     
  4. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    Yes, get a knock off Techstream. With a little effort they work great. I got mine by searching VCI mini cables on eBay and Amazon. Some people are concerned about using a knock off version on their regular laptops, but I use mine on my regular Windows 10 with no problems. Basically the knock off guys hack the Techstream files and insert an exceptionally long valid until date (you might have to follow directions to replace a file in the Techstream folder). Of course you can't try logging on to real Techstream Toyota with a hacked version. This will get you all the codes and subcodes once you have it up and running.

    Priuses are very complex cars. There are a few people on PriusChat who understand the complexities very well (not me). With them helping you you have a good chance at getting to the root cause of your issues.

    In my case the HV bat (as long it is reasonably high voltage) starts the ICE and the ICE runs constantly. Every single time I park I disconnect the 12v bat to "reset" the fault codes. To start I hook up the 12v and have to push start once, wait about 30 sec and then push and hold start. A lot of relay clicking but so far the ICE has always started.

    Good luck amigo.
     
  5. Kats_Pajamaz

    Kats_Pajamaz Junior Member

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    Upon further troubleshooting, trying to confirm my crankshaft was actually spinning, which I should've done before changing my crankshaft sensor anyways, it was definitely spinning, and the ICE did turn on, and was on for around 15-30 seconds solidly, running like it normally does, then traction battery protection mode kicked on and shut off my ICE. So while in park, with the ICE running, it went into protection mode. That being said, according to my Dr Prius app, my batteries current SOC is 15%, so i dont know if maybe it still tripped a low charge signal or something.

    Other info from the app that idk how much it matters, but I've seen some people mentioning it, my Delta SOC% is at 0.00% and my volt diff is at 0.13v. I'm not sure if any other parameters are currently useful for this. The modules themselves, after I charged and balanced them were at 7.96v.
     
  6. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    You might want to build yourself a grid charger - quick easy and cheap - to avoid having your HV bat voltage go too low to start the ICE
     
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  7. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Go back and read posts #11 & #12 again.

    Your internal combustion engine (ICE) is NOT starting. You may think that it starts for 20 seconds or so, but it is NOT starting. Every time that you try to start the ICE, you are draining down the hybrid vehicle (HV) battery. This is why you are getting the message about protection mode for the traction battery, also called the HV battery.

    The Dr. Prius app is good for diagnosing problems and trouble codes for the HV battery, but it is not a good app to diagnose problems for the ICE. Your main problem is that the ICE fails to start.

    So, you need a better OBD2 scan tool to diagnose the reason that your ICE does not start. Techstream is the best one to get, but there are other other good ones like Autel Maxi AP200. Take a look at the link below for a review of different OBD2 scan tools: https://priuschat.com/index.php?threads/232741/

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  8. Kats_Pajamaz

    Kats_Pajamaz Junior Member

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    I received my knockoff techstream and have it installed on a laptop. With that being said, I got no new information from it.

    It still pulled a P3000 code, but I don't see any option to allow me to pull up the subcodes. I think it is only giving the P3000 because the traction battery is low.

    I also have a non current, permanent code for U029A which was already there but I forgot about. That code specifically only popped up when I was doing my early troubleshooting, after I tried to start the car with the service plug removed, and immediately became inactive once I put the service plug back in, so I'm pretty sure that is irrelevant, I just haven't been able to drive the car for it to remove that from permanent storage.

    As far as ICE codes, I am still getting none at all.
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Was this ever answered?
    What’s it showing; post a screenshot?
     
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    no snowflake to click on?
     
  11. Kats_Pajamaz

    Kats_Pajamaz Junior Member

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    I wasn't looking at the very top when I clicked on the snowflake. I thought it was just telling me all the monitor specs.
    The code is P3000-388 which seems to be most associated with battery getting low.

    And the car is at 250k miles.

    Still pulling no codes that are ICE related, just the P3000-388 and the stored U029A.
     
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  12. Higgins909

    Higgins909 Member

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    250k is a lot of miles. What year? What kind of work has it had done? I would expect a HVB swap and maybe even a engine swap at that mileage. Maybe even a brake booster.
     
  13. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    What is your HV battery voltage now? If it gets too low it will not start the ICE
     
  14. AzusaPrius

    AzusaPrius Senior Member

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    You should never see only one bar.

    The hybrid system starts to charge it at two bars minimum.

    You are below the limit and need another HV battery.

    You can try to start it in the morning when it is coldest and turn the heater temp all the way up to keep the ICE running to get to temp, that may charge the battery up a bit while it is doing that.
     
  15. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Well sounds like egr cleaning is not a thing now.
     
  16. Kats_Pajamaz

    Kats_Pajamaz Junior Member

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    I cleaned the EGR a while back, I've replaced the head gasket, spark plugs, coils, and a lot of other small work over the last 2 years. I was originally guessing the HV might need replaced, but there are specific codes associated with the HV replacement that I'm not receiving, so not sure about that.

    I skimped on fully reconditioning the battery cells because it was going to take like 12 days with the setup I was using to do that, so I just did a discharge then charge on all my modules. Maybe I will just do the full recondition and see if it works.
     
  17. Kats_Pajamaz

    Kats_Pajamaz Junior Member

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    After another round of battery charging try to start it up again to pull codes, it attempts to spin up just like before to start the ICE, but the ICE doesn't start. I used techstream and a regular obd2 reader to try to pull codes, but I'm not getting anything. The P3000 code cleared because the battery is no longer low enough to trigger it, but I'm sure it will pop back up before long, without the ICE being able to kick on to charge it.

    Does anybody know if there are any common problems with the ICE that prevents it from starting, but doesn't generate any DTCs? I am just stumped and frustrated, because unlike a normal gas powered car, I only have a limited window of troubleshooting and startup attempts before I have to spend a few days recharging my battery.

    And for those saying it is probably the traction battery, shouldn't that be generating a specific code also? From what I have read, if it is the traction battery, I should be getting a P0A80 code, which I am not.

    I always do my own car stuff, and I am far from an expert. But I've usually been able to figure out and fix the problem eventually. But I've never had an engine not start without giving me some sort of code to point me in the right direction.
     
  18. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    If your car won't go into Ready mode when you press the power button then either your HV bat is low and/or you have another electrical/electronics issue (probably) With adequate 12 v power, even if it's from a charger, you should be able with Techstream to access codes and subcodes. The engine does not have to be running for this.
     
  19. Kats_Pajamaz

    Kats_Pajamaz Junior Member

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    It goes into ready mode. I can even put it into drive or reverse and start driving. But when the traction battery gets low enough to turn on the ICE, you can feel the ICE try to spin up for a few seconds, then stops. After a short pause, it tries to start it up again, at which point, the ICE continues to not start. After this cycle has happened 2 or 3 times, I tried to pull the codes, but there were none.

    I guess I shouldn't say none, necessarily. My air conditioning doesn't work, and I am getting a code from that. That has been there for roughly 6 months before any of this happened though. The techstream pulls a code from one of the air conditioning sensors just fine. But that is the only code it will pull. I really doubt that would be causing my problem. As far as actual engine codes or other related electrical systems, I'm getting nothing at all.
     
  20. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Have you tried spraying carb cleaner in the intake while it's turning over?
    If it starts the engine, you know you have a fuel issue. If it doesn't change,
    then it's not a fuel problem.

    That leaves spark. You can pull one of the coils and plug and lay the plug on
    the engine and see if it sparks. If it doesn't, look into why it won't supply spark
    Is the timing chain correct?

    Cam sensor, map sensor, maf sensor?

    Have you tried using TechStream to turn the engine over? Not sre where it is, but I know
    it will do that. It can also test all the sensors.

    There's probably nothing wrong with the hyrbrid battery, or it wouldn't turn the engine over.
    And sinceyou can charge it up and it does turn the engine over, you shouldn't worry about it.