Could some one provide me the techstream procedure to perform the rotation angle sensor value initialization on a prius 3? I have dtc C 1525 after a torque sensor zero point calibration failed due to communication error, and now the power steering light stays on and the power steering is not working anyome.
If your car is one with the brushless three-phase steering motor and rotation angle sensor (in the US, that would be a car in the V trim level, coming with the 17 inch road wheels), then the rotation angle sensor initialization is supposed to happen in the same process as the torque sensor zero point learning; Chassis / EMPS / Utility / Torque Sensor Adjustment. The manual does admonish to start with the wheel centered and front wheels straight ahead, not to turn the wheel sharply, and not to touch it at all during the 3 seconds it's learning the zero point. When the procedure successfully completes, both the rotation angle sensor and the torque sensor should be happy. All the manual says if you still have C1525 after 3 tries is to replace the steering ECU.
LKQ in the Southeast United States has had a run on V-Series vehicles in the last few months I've stripped a bunch of parts off bunches of them.
it' s indeed a 17 inch wheel, and trim 4 , before i can complete the calibration I get communication error , I use an ebay cable, I wonder if it could succed with toyota' s dealer equipment.
That sounds like the issue. It would probably work better with the Toyota-endorsed dongle, and might work better just by substituting any other J2534 dongle. (Sometimes, with the cheapest ones, even substituting another of the exact same model; the cheapest ones just plain don't always work.)
My Toyota dealer CF13 tough book came with the red OBD2 connector that has transfer green lights that light up when date is moving and when it connects to the windows computer and TIS it's listed as a Mongoose and the j number after it.
I have a mini vci cable, but after some research I found that tactrix openport 2.0 mightbe a better one. Like me some users complaint to be even unable to complete a brake fluid purge with Vci. I have contacted the nearest Toyota dealers and there are not free spots for calibration untill 11 september, amazing, and they told me they can 't prioritize since power steering malfunction is not considered a safety hazard. I booked an appointment in september, but I will buy an openport 2.0 which will arrive on 10 August, if the cable solves the issue I will cancel the dealer appointment.
Just know that if you do that, you will be making the same thing happen to Tactrix that already happened to XHorse, and then none of us will be able to buy a reliable Openport, made by a going company that supports them ... it'll be the same way it already is with Mini VCIs. The real one costs $169. That's what the real one costs.
I could opt for the expensive one then, but tomorrow I leave for a 3 weeks vacation and without powersteering won't be fun, it' s a 1400 km drive one way and 1400 back. I see there is a procedure for the gen 1 involving obd pins instead of techstream 2002 Prius steering torque sensor calibration | PriusChat is it the same for Gen 3?
I kind of doubt there is The Gen 2 was built like older Toyota's made to be fixed in the wilds like in crazy places where you can't even imagine unless you've traveled a lot The Gen 3 not so much That's the Americanized version of the Prius made for American roads and American pocketbooks specifically seems a Toyota does that with certain types of models I guess I can't really fault them That's what it seems like anyway. A lot of other products are showing similar attributes.
You found instructions for the yaw and acceleration zero point sensor, used by the vehicle stability control, which is handled by the brake/skid ECU. That ECU still has a lot of non-Techstream, do stuff with pins options in Gen 3. The power steering ECU is what cares about the steering motor rotation angle and the steering torque, and I am not seeing much in the way of non-Techstream options for any functions of that ECU, regrettably. As for dongles, the one Toyota recommends and supports is around $500, if I remember right. The Tactrix Openport 2.0 seems to work pretty well and is around a third of that price, which seems pretty good for something that is made by a company still in business in the US that it would be nice to have stay in business. There are also some other less-expensive options, like the VxDiag VCX Nano, I think around half the price of the Openport; I've heard it might work pretty well, but haven't reviewed it myself. My recommendation, for anyone wanting to spend less than the price of an Openport, would be to buy one of the other legitimate products that sell for less than an Openport ... in preference to buying a cheap "openport" that doesn't support Tactrix. (I don't work for Tactrix ... I just like having them around.)
I see that I posted that in a Gen 2 thread. I do not see any similar instruction in a Gen 3 repair manual.
Yes it probably would I don't know how you mess up a JIS standard but people will try apparently awfully hard I mean it's really seems tatd to me. But it's happening in all the arenas people just try to make up their own standards and wing it or just do whatever they want and put it for sale
Well, there are two levels. First, SAE J2534 is a Windows API standard. It says that any one of these dongles has to come with its own DLL file that Techstream can load and use to talk to the dongle. The DLL file has to be able to answer questions from Techstream like "hey, can this dongle do this, this, this, this, and this?" And if the DLL for one dongle answers "yes, yes, yes, no, and yes" and the DLL for some other dongle answers "yes, no, no, yes, and yes", then both dongles conform to the standard, as long as those answers are right for that dongle. You can kind of compare those answers using the "cable check" function in Techstream: or in more detail with the free tool from DrewTech: The other level is, even when a dongle is built to have all the needed capabilities, at the very low end of the price scale, they are often just flaky and don't always work. Sometimes I wonder if some of them just default to communication timeouts that are too short for certain things the car does. I'm not sure how to go about testing that though.
That's Why I just bought the whole assembly that somebody lifted or removed from a going out of business dealer ding ding cha ching.. this way here I wasn't fighting all the nonsense..