Hello, I've got a 2010 Prius that has me stumped. To start, it has 128k miles on the ODO, and it doesnt get driven much. Maybe 10k miles a year. Im new to this forum and its the reason why i made this account. What it did is that it decided not to start one morning. Could not lock or unlock with the fob. Does not show a green ready mode light when the brakes are applied. Cannot get into acc mode, no lights pop up except for the orange triangle. The only messages that show up are "Depress brake pedal. Place keyfob on start button to start". Nothing happens. Dome lights work and that part of the IC(instrument cluster) is the only part of the car that turn on. Car does have a refurbished hybrid battery, but it is 3 years old and out of warranty. What i have done and checked: New 12v battery(AGM) Multiple new batteries on key fob(locks still dont work) Checked all fuses, including 125A and 140A Checked and rechecked orange hybrid plug. This started a month ago and the 12v has been charged and load checked multiple times to make sure i had good voltage at all times. The "Check hybrid system" message never showed up. I could not check for codes since i am not able to even turn the vehicle onto vehicle start mode. I am mechanically inclined, so ask away. Ive dealt with electrical issues in the past but this is my first time dealing with hybrid systems. I dont know what the next step is so any and all input is appreciated. I havent taken a hybrid battery apart, but i aint no chicken. I just would rather avoid it lol Thank you.
Even when my hybrid battery was completely in the crapper. My generation 3 would at least turn on light up the display show me the car even if it didn't go to ready everything lit up headlights would work all of that so something seems very amiss a bad ground something not necessarily at the battery but something is very amiss obviously I'm not telling you anything I'm sure. But it just seems to me like you have no electricity the 12 volt electricity that runs the car. So then to be clear with the door closed car just sitting there you determined with a voltmeter flukey meter whatever that you have 12 volts sitting at the rear terminals of the battery door's closed not necessarily locked You should be able to lock the car with the button with 12 volts at the battery and the door open you have the remote standing near the car you have the door open you can't lock the door with the button even interesting so go around and manually lock all three doors and then lock the door with the key the driver door You don't even see the red light for your alarm on the dash yeah I would say you have a serious grounding issue no flow.
Check the 12v battery voltage at the battery and also at the jump point inside the fuse box under the hood of the car. What are your readings? Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Hey yall sorry it took me a while to reply. But yeah i have 12.7v at the battery. 12.5v at the thick white wire, and 12.5v at the jump post. And i have double checked all fuses inside and out. Im thinking maybe the ecu took a crap but im just making guesses at this point. Ive checked all my ground points and they look clean and tight. All my positive points are the same.
Do you only have one key FOB? It sounds like exactly what would happen if your key just didn't work anymore for whatever reason. Does the brake pump go off when you get near the driver side door, or only when you open the door (after it's been sitting a while)?
Hey Eddie25, yes sadly there is only one key fob. And wierdly enough the pump can be heard everytime when the driver door gets opened. Never really heard it go off as i approached it, but it does run when the pedal gets depressed too. But even when the pedal gets depressed, no amber light shows up on the start button. Ive tried pressing the fob on the button without the brake pedal and still no response. I have tried calling a locksmith to get a new fob but his machine couldn't program the fob. It refused to connect. The dealership is my last resort as i would like to figure this out personally. But if i have to, it is what it is.
12.5V is perfectly fine, well within the normal range. Though when off, I'd be concerned about the 0.2V difference between battery posts and front jumper posts. When asleep, it shouldn't be drawing enough current to create that much drop. Is there a poor connection somewhere in there?
Hey sorry for not replying any sooner. Had to step away from the car for a bit for family related issues. But i did check for a draw and i could not find anything super significant. I have so far checked junction connectors and ground points. Cleaned a few ground points just to have a peace of mind. I did actually check the hybrid battery and it check out as well. My main issue. is that it does not want to go into accessory mode or even ign-on mode. all it does is say, step on brake pedal and push power button with key fob. no amber light comes on and no green light comes on. when the power button gets pushed, it just repeats the message, over and over. the orange triangle also starts blinking while the message is being repeated. key fob still doesn't unlock or lock the car. But it does lock and unlock using the door lock. ive only got one key fob. and the ive had a locksmith try and program a new fob but he could not get it to program. The main harness is good. ive check for continuity between the certification ecu to the power button, and the power management ecu. at this moment ive ran out of ideas of what it could be and playing parts roulette till it works is turning into a viable option.
I get the same differential with my gen3. Voltages are different everywhere. Techstream reports different voltages too so just keep your 12 volt charged. Service Manual says 11 volts to start engine. Converter keeps battery at higher voltages when running.