Suspect wheel bearings

You're in DC I've lived there in Maryland your car should come apart relatively easy but should come out bearing should smack out whatever not a big issue sounds to me like you may have a drive axle problem so be prepared to replace CV joints or complete axles I would have both of them at the ready I didn't even look at your mileage doesn't really matter to me. Or you can stop the whole show and go and get the axle shafts as you need them whatever makes you happy I'd rather have them in return them or I put them on the shelf and keep them regardless and they go on next time usually wheel bearings aren't really doing the grinding thing they tend to groan and that sort of thing oh a very low moaning groan that gets louder and louder and louder with time until you just stop driving it because it makes so much noise you think the harmonics are going to damage something that's how loud it can get and still not hurt anything You're just wearing out the wheel bearing that you're going to replace anyway In remote instances maybe out in Africa in the bush or an extreme heat or something crazy You could get the whole hub assembly brake rotor and all that smoking hot where you smell it

 

I can't see the time unless I go to YouTube and all I'm watching from your link so you're talking about when he's holding it in his hand and spinning it oh good That's wonderful so then you're going to be ordering the wheel bearing and doing all that stuff All I'm saying is maybe you want to make sure where you get your parts from they have a drive axle too maybe not It's your car so proceed as you feel necessary again I haven't looked at your stuff and I don't see your mileage or whatever is probably in the very first post when I don't know I'm sure it's over 100,000 are getting real close when you have your bearing out inspect your drive axle boots inner and outer very well that's the best I can tell you at high mileage if I'm already pulling the bearing out I'll probably put a new axle in just because of the high mileage and right after I get it all back together then I have to take it all apart next week next month to do this I might as well put it now usually to be honest with you when I'm doing what you're doing I usually am at high enough mileage say about 200 plus thousand I usually put a strut lower ball joint sway bar end link of course the wheel bearing which I already have loaded in a hub assembly sitting on my floor left and right for both Gen 2 and Gen 3 because I don't like to sit here and bash stuff out of the car I'd rather change a whole hub assembly with the lower ball joint in the end link put on a new axle all at one time and blast the nuts on set the strut get my alignment straight and now I know that does not have to come back apart for probably 200,000 more miles and I can just leave it alone I don't like to work again in the same area same part of the car again just because I was trying to save $60 My time is probably worth a little more than that.

 

Yes you can always do that too You had it a part once you could have just put the stuff in there then but that was out of sight and out of mind I'm sure. You can just take it apart and spin the pieces and see what you're replacing and like I say I just find it cheaper these days to replace the stuff on the given sides I'm working on I have it all apart that's half the battle Don't put old parts back in that you have to remove all that mess again to change when it starts making a racket. I mean that just seems very sensible pleased to me anyway. When you had it apart the last time for whatever the end link business and all that another $140 aside and you could have knocked all of that out or some something similar to that and then that takes care of you for another 15 years or better But I'm very fast I can blast all that apart and you know 28 minutes generally speaking most people that will take them quadruple that time because they're not about this kind of stuff so once you know how to handle air guns and how they work and how they do you can blast stuff apart really fast but it back together really quick but if you don't know what you're doing you'll be breaking bolts stripping studs and all kinds of nonsense creating a whole lot more work for probably not yourself but a machine shop so when you're not accustomed to these kind of things you have to kind of go slow the first few times till you get a feel for what's going on.

 

The Chinese brand that I purchased it look like very good copies or whatever you would call them of the units that everybody likes here I can't think of the brand that came on the car somebody will be along in the minute Toyo or something like that. I found a Chinese copy which are stamped numbered marked that look very good and very close to original I can put them side by side and almost every detail seems to be there and there's no way I'm paying close to $200 a pop for a wheel bearing I can change them out very quickly and it's no big deal so I don't know how that's going to work out but I'll try and get you a part number I did buy my own from Amazon about 2 years ago I recently went to look to see if they were still a seller or a thing and I believe they are and I have some pictures if you supply me an email I'll send you pictures of the raw parts in 4K pictures of all the little details I did not have a $200 plus factory unit new in-house to film it side by side against so far so good so I'm not complaining these things were I don't know in the $50 range or something like that and they're very quiet so far I am not changed my driving style or anything like that they seem to be doing well on the dirt roads and the driving I do with my generation too as a service vehicle

 

Maybe one weekend when you're just assing around if you ever do any of that kind of stuff you should shoot down here to Central North Carolina 27243 where I'm at You could spend the whole weekend here working on your car with tools jacks whatever if you don't have any of that stuff you could even spend the night here if you wanted I have no idea there's a hotel right up top of the street too I am in the county You can do what you want out here set fires literally they didn't know no problems We have big bonfires out here all weekend long work on our cars shoot off fireworks whatever we want to do as long as we want to do it you'll never see the share for the fire department or anybody out here bothering you I usually have a set of loaded hubs off and ready to go on right this very second I don't I just used them this weekend but I'll be loading up another set here shortly might be a thing.? My number's been posted up here a bunch of times if you're interested I'll post it again just let me know

 

Yeah sounds about like it I guess

 

If you're over 150 k or somewhere near that then you got noise in the wheels a good place to start is hub bearing assemblies I mean you can get them reasonable now they hold up reasonably well they're not that hard to change unless you're in The hardest of climates. That's where I would start It doesn't sound like drive axle business a rock stuck between something yeah that's usually more turns into a grading possibly squealing if it's the right kind of rock material but anything is possible but needs to be against something that's rotating to be in between the backing plate and the rotor would be a stretch and a pretty big rock that would probably get flogged out of there after it does its damage that would be in the front in the back you have drum brakes so unless something's caught in between your I don't even know what not much back there really with the way the drum mates up to the backing plate dust can get in there and come out of there but rocks and things that are going to make noises like that not so much. I live on a dirt road and I have a gravel driveway of course the street at the end of my gravel driveway is blacktop where I park my car sits a pressure washer and and the garden hose that's hooked up to a four horsepower well pump and a spray nozzle that'll hurt you if it hits you and I spray these cars off regularly especially the wheel wells to make sure dust break dust all that stuff is getting relieved regularly and when I do usually a little black water runs down the rims and all indicating the brake dust I'm knocking out. I do this pretty regularly with all four cars I just like to keep the mess clean so when I have to pull the wheel and look at something I'm not looking at an inch of dust

 

That is predominantly in the rear get two rear hub bearings they're the cheaper of the two axles. So that's good there go ahead and get a set of shoes and maybe a set of wheel cylinders just because if you change the wheel cylinders well doing the brakes. And the rear you want to disconnect the battery or take the relays out to work the rear brakes or you can leave the fob 15 20 ft away from the car so it doesn't call up anything the car that is. The works fairly straight Forward and easy with no special tooling required Even the rear drum brakes you don't need the spring tool you can use your curved cotter key pliers which are side cutters essentially channel lock sells a very nice 8-in curved set at home Depot for about $23 as you will need to have these in your arsenal for other work later might as well have a decent set.

 

Can you get the rear up on a jack and spin the rear wheels and take a video of that?

 

Timken! Don't go cheap! They won't last.
Moog would be your 2nd choice.

 

Fair enough. If it were me I'd probably go with Moog or Timken from Rock Auto, for no other reason than I've had good experience with Moog stuff (and the pics say made in Japan), and I've heard Timken was good and possibly the OEM manufacturer. If money weren't a big issue I'd just go OEM.