I know, not supposed to exceed 1000 watts or something. I was running 700 watts, but recently revised my stereo and now it is 2800 watts. I upgraded the battery to a much larger battery and added a voltmeter. I haven't noticed any charging issues. Here's my train of thought: The amps don't pull 100% current all the time. When they exceed what the dc to dc inverter makes, the battery can drain a bit. Then the inverter charges the battery when current demand drops. So has anyone else gone with over 1000 watts? (I'll post my new stereo install when all the cosmetics are done....it's a bit crazy $10k stereo)
Yep all the old stuff applies here too stiffening caps amplifiers unless you're running them wide open right regularly I mean you shouldn't really see any problems other than heavy high wattage used in these type of cars tend to flex the body and the plastics to the point of constant rattling sitting at idle and things like that so you'll spend a lot of time with the sound deadening material and glue and putting something in between interior panels and metal just to avoid rattling and vibration as best you can especially for when the stereo is off.
The rattles and flex has been an ongoing battle. I put 8's in all four doors with 200 watts going to each. I'm still working out rattles. XS batteries offer high amperage discharge rates, so it ends up similar to a capacitor. They have a few batteries that can be jammed in with minimal effort.
I used second skin and NVX butyl mat. I applied it inside the door and on the skin and inside of the panel. I also used closed cell foam in a few places. I'm redoing my sub box because I decided to ad a second 10". After the pair is installed I'll use foam to eliminate buzzes from plastic panels.
Yeah I don't get to spend a lot of time in the stereo world anymore My uncle worked for Hirsch Hoouck labs . In the '60s through '80s Lenny Feldman and Julian Hirsch did all the testing for all the good gear that stereo review reviewed for about 36 years Great guys good people My uncle was in the crew of people that pretty much invented four channel records and audio turntables that had cartridges on them and records that had four channels in them so left and right front and rear this is way back in the early '70s I believe I still have his record collection of four channel records which is I about 800 deep I think mostly progressive jazz and things like that stuff that I didn't listen to in the day. Those were some fun times
What I was getting at- do you use any special technique or tool to identify the natural resonance of a door or cabin? How do you test the results of the matting for tuning? I've done plenty of custom car audio, but never any high wattage stuff, so I had relatively little clean-up to do in terms of rattles.
I have a 10 channel Helix dsp, but I'm still waiting on a mic. It has auto tune, just set the mic at the listeners head position and it can adjust time delays and eq settings. As far as testing results of the sound deadening, I simply listen for vibration/buzzing to stop. Nothing else beyond that.
Yeah that's how I do it. I was curious if anyone was using measurement tools that might have spared me from disassembling/reassembling my doors 5 times lol. It was still worth it!
Single 18" Skar EVl running on a skar RP-2000 1d, 1-ohm, with a 9 farad cap i get stable 14v, never headlight dimming or anything of the slightest
Most any good stereo should be able to blow holes in the doors of a generation 3 All you have to do is kick them with your foot I imagine a large enough kicker speaker Paul to produce dents on the backside of the door on the sheet metal side not the door panel side I mean just leaning and accidentally pushing a body part against the door panel produces dents really easily it was almost shocking to me on the three on the two not so much.
