So, I’ve thrown a lot of money at my 2006 Prius in the past several years and am wondering what I can expect to go wrong next. I’m hoping someone can look at my list of past car repairs and tell me what is not on the list that you would expect to see in a Prius with 236,000 miles. I keep hoping I’m done with repairs for a while, and then another expensive problem crops up…. 236,000 (current) Control arms and possibly axle need replaced 232,000 Front struts replaced 230,000 Front brakes replaced 218,000 Rear brakes replaced 215,000 Muffler replaced 214,000 Both front wheel bearings replaced 214,000 Hybrid battery replaced 193,000 Left front wheel bearing replaced 196,000 Front strut replaced third time under warranty 191,000 All struts replaced 187,000 Front brakes replaced 183,000 Purge flow valve replaced (needed to pass emissions check) 149,000 Left front wheel bearing replaced 138,000 Water pump replaced 132,000 Front brakes replaced 132,000 Small battery replaced I bought the car at 132,000 miles. I do know, from Carfax, that before I bought the car, she was in a minor accident involving the left front. I wonder if something is slightly warped out of shape from that accident, and if that’s why I’ve had to replace the left front wheel bearing three times. So, what should I expect to go wrong next?
This is like spinning a roulette wheel and asking which number will come up next. I don't personally understand why ANYONE thinks that nursing along a really OLD vehicle like you are doing is a good idea. My guess is: Major engine work or total failure.
What part of the world is this car driving in. Looks like you're going through wheel bearings a bit I don't know if it's because of the part selected or you're pounding them down dirt roads gravel roads next looks to me like the ABS pump and accumulator one of the common repairs on this car especially getting up in the mileage. I don't see the inverter pump in your list Lord knows that's coming and if it is in the list sorry I didn't see it The water pump is mechanical that generally will only happen once possibly twice if you going to go for the $600,000. I don't know if I see struts twice or you replaced one and then replace the rest of them or how that worked he'd like to have the front struts and the rear shocks struts at least pairs and at least from the same manufacture possibly that sort of thing they are relatively inexpensive now and generally easy to change. I don't know if you do this work yourself or what's going on. I have a few cars so I keep a set of loaded hubs with ball joints and what have you ready to go in my shed under the carport wherever so when the wheel bearing goes out I can just swap it on there as an assembly and 45 minutes and everything is good that's with hand wrenching and an electric impact when it can fit in there and be used. But that's really about it other than some of the quirky electrical things the dash display things like that usually the car will continue to work there's been a few instances where other things have happened are people believe things were going on I don't know. My car drove fine without the display and anytime the display goes out I still drive my hundred miles a day without issue just remember to keep the gas full.
areyou hard on the car? you're replacing the brakes too often for a prius. next, i would expect the brake actuator, mfd, inverter, 12 volt, engine if she burns oil, battery if the replacement isn't oem, and lastly the tranny. not necessarily in that order. but this is not unusual for a 17 year old car at that mileage and climbing
Too many wheel bearing and strut replacements. Perhaps whoever is doing this work is using cheap parts instead of high quality ones? I just replaced the first (front) wheel bearing at around 130K miles, assuming the replacements lasts as long as the original I would expect it to fail at roughly 260K. "Water pump" isn't specific enough. Guessing inverter pump as those seem to wear out after 70K or so. You are about due for another one of those. (Only install OEM pump, no other options are acceptable!) No tire changes? What the heck kind of tires are good for 100K miles? How is the car for rust? I believe Ohio salts its roads and many a car in such states has rusted out long before a major mechanical problem did it in. Honestly, other than the high strut and bearing replacement rate that car has been pretty reliable. It wouldn't surprise me at all that a car with >200K miles now needs control arms, axles, ball joints, or anything of that sort as eventually all of that wears out, and >200K is a lot of wear.
OP is northeast OHIO, I've had the joy of working on a handfull of cars from the Cleveland area. If his car is anything like those, expect to be replacing brake lines, fuel lines, radiator supports, even body mounts and fuel tank due to rust and corrosion. I think Ohio likes to mix a little snow and ice with their salt during the winter. Absolutely brutal......
You forgot to mention the potholes, TMR-JWAP…. Thanks everyone for the responses! (Although I’m afraid to look up the price tags for the potential repairs you’ve listed. I know the inverter is a bad one, I don’t know about the rest….) If I go through brakes a lot, it may be because I don’t drive on the highway, so I brake more times per mile than others do. It’s only the left front wheel bearing that was replaced three times in 10 years, and I am guessing (although my mechanical knowhow is nil) that this may have something to do with the accident the car was in before I bought it. Per CarFax, the accident involved “left front impact” and “minor damage.” Maybe something near the wheel bearing got warped slightly out of shape? I don’t know, just a guess from an ignorant layperson.
Driving through crap (deep water, snow with salt, potholes) will mess up bearings. So will an unbalanced wheel. Has the car ever had its alignment checked while you owned it? I would have thought though that anything in the alignment bad enough to kill the bearing would have really done a job on the tire first. I still the think the most likely problem is the use of poor quality bearings in the repairs.
It cost me a grand plus to fix that problem while food delivery. I noticed the mileage incurred while dashboard is off does not seemed to add to the odo? Originally I thought somebody trying to fraud odo? And illegally sell the car which can result to fine and imprison?
I do not know. Possibly? Eh engine rebuilt? They said 350 to 400K since it two engines but wth do I know vs GM tech fans or Fjord? Definitely another aux battery, tires, the usual wear and tear components that have rubber and other weak shits.
You're right you don't see it posting but if you put plug up a proper scan tool to the car the mileage is stored so they'll be no frauding anybody frauding yourself maybe but.
I’m an ignoramus when it comes to all things mechanical. Is there a way to gauge the condition of the inverter and the brake actuator? Meaning: could the mechanic (or Toyota dealer?) check out those parts and tell me either “it’s on its way out and may fail soon” or “it’s in good shape, no need to worry”? Or are these parts that fail suddenly without any way to foresee the failure? If I knew that the inverter or actuator was on its way out, I would forego the new control arms and axle and go car shopping instead. But if I were reassured that those parts are still in good condition, I would spend the $1300 on arms and axle and cross my fingers that it’s the last repair for a while. (I’ve spent more on repairs than I did buying the car ten years ago!) This is probably wishful thinking, and I’ll just have to take my best guess. I like this car, and it will be hard to give her up. Thanks all for enlightening me!
Unbolt the hood on the inverter on your generation 2 and if you get a chance look at a video of a generation 3 generation 2 is real heavy material inside of it a lot of Hitachi parts etc The newer one is a little more dainty than that oh well I've only seen a few Gin twos getting inverter Gen three's get updated some get replaced Not so much in the Gen 2
The inverter RARELY is a failure point on a Gen 2. Really really rarely. I would just make sure the inverter cooling water pump is functioning properly. The brake actuator on the other hand can be a common failure at higher miles. If you don't have techstream, all you need to do is listen for the pump to run. Put the car in ready mode and let it warm up so the engine turns off. Press the brake a couple times until you hear a low hum, which is the actuator motor running to pressurize the accumulator. It should run for just a couple seconds and then turn off. Take your foot off the brake once you hear the brake motor start humming. Now wait. If, after one minute, you don't hear the motor start again, it's in pretty good shape. A leaking actuator will cycle the pump motor every 10 seconds or so.
What was the service history like on previous cars? Did you go through brakes and suspension parts this often? I suspect your car is badly tweaked and will continue to eat brakes, wheel bearings, struts, etc. Take it to an alignment shop, not your current shop and talk to them. If the news is bad sell this one and find another Gen 2 with better history. These are pretty tough cars but do have some stuff that wears out by 200K miles. But 3 sets of wheel bearings and front brakes in 100K miles is not typical.
Unless using total junk parts it could be a thing. People see $40 wheel bearings and that's a sale they have no clue they have to put them on five times then they might catch on
Thank you! This is very helpful. The “low hum” is more of a buzzing sound. It does not start buzzing again after I take my foot off the brake, so I guess that’s a good sign. At my last wheel bearing replacement, I brought up the fact that it was my third time replacing the left front wheel bearing. The mechanic said that the previous shop may have been using lower quality bearings, and that he would install a better quality one this time around. So hopefully this one lasts….