Transmission Phase codes

So the Prius is in P-Lock, the battery is fully charged(new) but still getting actuator codes.

C2300, C2304, C2305, C2306

B+ is at 12.65V

But the U,V,W Phase voltages are at .31V. Are these supposed to be at 9-12V? Smart ignition is in IG mode.

Any thoughts?

 

Yes, I've run the reports. This whats happening now.

 

Ok, here is the detailed report.

 

Sorry Doug, I started a new thread since the codes, symptoms, and topic are different. Now it s a P-lock issue with a new battery.

 

Is there a way to get around the P-lock? Can you simply remove the HEV fuse? Will the car run ok? I saw one guy jumper his connector from the HEV 7.5AMP fuse to the blue wire on the primary fuse block connector. I'm at wits end and need to find a knowledgeable tech.

 

SFO, This is really useful information. The sub code is 581. I'm assuming the HVC-ECU is behind the glove box and the Trans-ECU is located under the glove box behind the plastic cover. Do you have to dissemble the dash to get to the harness?

Thanks for this though.

 

This Prius has an interesting history. It was purchased in Vero Beach, FL and lived there for 4 years. It was inherited by my wife and lived just north of Boston until now. So basically it seen just about everything temperature wise. IT only has 82K on it and is great condition less this finicky electrical "Prius Flu". Seems it cant decide which symptom it doesn't like.

I started tracing the harness out according to the procedure outlined in the P3102/xxx Trans-ECU Malfunction doc. It seems disconnecting the harness plugs at the trans ECU and HV ECU reset the errors causing the P-Lock. The car ran ok for a while and once it warmed up I got a whole new set of codes, including the infamous P0A80. Block 10 is out of range reading 1.5V below the max reading. The rest of the blocks are within tolerance running from 16.76 down to 16.71, then block 10 at 15.27V. I have other readings that show the blocks well within the 1.5V tolerance but my guess under load and at op temp its showing its age. I do find it amazing its having so many trouble code issues with this condition.

The last drive I took it did not run all that well. Here is the code list:
P3000/123
P0A80
P3020 Battery Block 10 is weak.
C1259
C1310

 

So the decision to move ahead is to replace the HV battery. Im not sure its the only thing going on here, but it seems certain it is one issue. The battery is 10 years old, it does not load test well, it has one block (block 10) that falls 1.5V or greater out of sync, but not at all charge levels.

I have decided to order a refurbished battery pack with a 24 month warranty from Hometown Hybrids in Houston, TX. $995 including shipping both ways.

I'll let you all know how this one goes.

 

So long story short, it seems the problem was the HV battery. All trouble codes have resolved. Amazing how a weak battery can throw so many weird codes.

The folks from Hometown Hybrid were very responsive. They ship Fedex Ground, so I knew exactly when the battery would arrive, and the Fedex guy gave me his phone number and swung by to pick up the core when I called. The battery came with a very informative packet of material to help with safety and installation. They do a solid job on the purchase and warranty paperwork and make it easy with DocuSign. So far its a good value in my book at $995 including both-way shipping and a 2 year warranty. TechStream shows the battery in well balanced shape within voltage tolerances as expected.

The only rookie mistake I made was the inter-lock. It threw a P0A0D code on first start attempt. I had not slid the lever down hard enough to engage the safety interlock pins. Luscious Garage has a good video on this, I'm sure its a common mistake.

I'll keep you all posted on how well this battery works out but for now, thumbs up for Hometown Hybrids out of Houston, TX.

I'm still working on that leak in the rear quarter sumps. It should be obvious, and I know where it classically leaks, but damned if I can find it. Finally our Prius is back after a 3 week fiasco. A final note, I have to let the Toyota guys off the hook. They thought it was the HV battery but just could not produce the TS diagnostics to prove it. Regardless, I saved $2500 doing it myself. (yeah, I know its not new cells). Good enough.