Brake pads and rotors replacement

I changed ALL the brakes and rotors with new equipment.

MAKE SURE the BATTERY is disconnected and use NEW fluid( DOT 3 synthetic or 4).
Either know how to turn back the pressure cylinder that puts pressure on the pads with regular tools(kinda like MacGyver style), or rent/purchase tool...(have it before you start !)
Bleed as much old fluid out of system/lines and be cool, NEVER in a rush, that's when errors happen !

There is a trick removing rotors off of the hub! Install a bolt/metric on holes(2) in old rotor between wheel studs, and slowly pressure rotor from hub(I used just one bolt/screw. IT WILL COME LOOSE this way, it's the best way. Beating on it(rotor), won't loosen it.

(Don't know if i'll get in trouble but... Bought my stuff at BUYBRAKES,COM
Centric Premium Disc Brake Rotor)

 

If you are simply changing pads and rotors, there is no need to open the hydraulic system at all, hence no air gets in, hence no need for bleeding anything.

If you do open any hydraulic lines, you should have a good reason for it, and then you're into a bigger job:

In earlier generations (and maybe with Gen 4 but I can't say for sure) you can sometimes get away with folk approaches to bleeding if you have only worked at the wheel ends of the lines and worked as carefully as possible so only a little air is there and none has traveled up the lines to the head-end parts.

If air gets into the head-end components, the car's built in bleed procedure (started either with Techstream or another scan tool that can do so) is what's needed to get all the air out. That's also the case if the reservoir level gets low and any air enters during a folk bleeding attempt.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to have a capable scan tool on hand for that.

 

For Gen 3, there is a published fluid replacement procedure you can follow without a scan tool, if you are careful and everything goes right.

Key is that fluid replacement does not mean bleeding, so it's only fluid replacement if there are no bubbles in there to start with, and you make absolutely sure none get in during your job.

If some do, that turns it into a bleeding job, so even if that isn't the plan, you might want to have lined up where you will go for a suitable scan tool to run the bleeding procedure if you turn out to need it.

Pressure bleeders and vacuum bleeders are cool, but neither will make fluid or bubbles go through closed internal valves that you can't tell the computer to open in the right sequence.

 

Here's some relevant Repair Manual info.

 

See the “3rd gen rear brake…” link in my sig too, for some tips and tactics. Should hold true for 4th gen.

 

Don’t understand carrier to knuckle bolt. I’d only put loctite on bolts if it’s specd. Typically torque values are with clean, dry threads. If you opt for anti-seize or other lube, you should reduce torque. There’s table guidelines for what percent to reduce.

 

What do you think about opening the brake fluid reservoir cap to relieve any pressure when pushing the caliper piston back in before installing new pads?
I did this and no air seems to enter system.


iPhone ?

 

Where did you get the cap adaptor?


iPhone ?

 

The brake fluid reservoir is not air tight; no need to take cap off. Just keep an eye on the level when retracting pistons, in case it’s been topped up, and accordingly prone to overflow.

if you’re intending to do a brake fluid replacement no special cap needed. There’s a repair manual procedure without Techstream, @NutzAboutBolts has a good video (he bleeds in an order that varies from repair manual; I stuck with the manual order). It’s video #18 here:

Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

It’s a good strategy to baste out reservoir and replace fluid before starting. Don’t drop it too low, to where you may introduce air. That would be hard to do: there’s a screen within the reservoir which hampers basting.

Also see brake fluid replacement link in my signature. On a phone turn it landscape to see signature.

 

Thanks for all the info.
I was also looking for a brake fluid reservoir adaptor cap for my motive pressure bleeder if you happen to know where to get one.
Been looking a while and can’t find one but noticed in part of this thread some have has one


iPhone ?

 

Pressure-bleeding equipment seems like more of a waste of time.

If all you are doing is fluid replacement (there's no air needing to be bled out, and you don't introduce any) you don't need it; the simple procedure in the manual works fine.

If you actually need to bleed and there's air in the head-end components, it won't do the job; there are valves in those components that simply are not open unless you are using the scan-tool-initiated procedure to bleed.