The typical consumer will just blow you off, seeing little benefit for such a large uncertain expense. They will dismiss the "new tech" as unready and choose to wait. Know your audience.
I'm sure you felt it was ok. You have a better way now, correct? What you had was not kosher.... But there could be times when the freezer is running bc it just had the door open while she was messing around in there. And now the it's running for an hour or more and your EV is sucking it up at the same time at whatever you think it draws. When I measured my L1 EVSE it was nutz on at 12A ± a small amount.
And I typically say to my 'audience' , "Think about it next time you're pumping gas on a dark, cold, and stormy night and the next time you're scheduling an oil change for your gasser". Should I point out where some of the Gas Dollars end up? All you can do is talk to Luddites. Some people hate change at any cost. Even though the change will have a big pay back in X amount of time. I'm sure. But still not 'Kosher' or 'To Code'. You dodge that bullet! Good for you!
Nope, that is the cheapest quote I got from 4 different contractors. For one thing, our 100Amp Main is completely full no room for another breaker even using tandem breakers. Upgrading our main to 200Amp will cost roughly $6K. Even a simpler subpanel installation will cost ~$2000. But I am afraid that 100Amp is not big enough if we need to charge a BEV above 32A. 16A is likely the limit without upgrading to 200Amp. Then there is the issue of a detached garage that is ~50 feet away from the house where the main panel is located. Currently, single 20A circuit services this outbuilding off from the main panel, but the line is buried under the blacktop driveway. Installation of a dedicated 240v circuit to the garage will require tearing up the blacktop and digging a new trench to lay down a larger conduit for the new line to reach from the panel to the garage. All of this will cost anywhere from $5k to $10K.
Totally agree a perspective EV buyer needs to look into their the electric supply situation. Any idea why your PP takes more than the <6hrs at Level 1 Toyota claims? Level 1 charging is less efficient. Mostly because of the overhead. The energy use running the charger and accessories like fans is a constant over time. Level 1 means that use is going on longer. Now, take a Bolt EV charging at 120V and 8 amps can gain 3 miles per hour. Work night night charge time will be at least 10 hours. Assume a range of 230 miles at the start of the work week because of degradation and not going to full. The commute is 60 miles round trip, and 30 miles regained each night. Arriving at home at the end of the fifth work day leaves a range of 120 miles. It will take the full weekend to get the range back to 230 miles. This would be cutting it too close to be comfortable in a single car household. It also wouldn't work with a shorter range BEV like the Leaf, nor a less efficient model with the range of the Bolt. The later might work with a dedicated 12 amp outlet, but the former will need a Level 2. But the example isn't typical for most Americans. The 60 mile commute is a bit more than the 41 mile average, and 59% of households have more than one car. For a single car household, I'd say Level 2 is a must with a BEV. Otherwise, I'd suggest really looking into what the car's use pattern will be, the models being considered, and the local public charger situation. Upgrading the 60 amp service to 200 was one of the first things we did upon moving in 20 something years ago. We need to go beyond just helping people with charger installs.
No. A 12A L1 charging is perfectly adequate for our current needs. So, should I pay $2000+ for a sub panel plus $5000+ for the excavator to install a 240V outlet on a dedicated 16A circuit in our garage? Don't think so. Not for the sole purpose of charging a BEV. The total cost difference of installing a 16A or a 50A is not that big at that point. But for other reasons, such as converting our aging oil boiler central heating to a whole house heat pump system, and installing a heat pump water heater, then I must upgrade our electrical system to 200Amp. And if I have to do that then as might as well, install a 50A dedicated circuit to a garage to take advantage of a consolidated home improvement loan.
The warm place is in the EVSE "brick," not the plug or receptacle. The outlet is not hot, but as I'd already said, I'm replacing the inexpensive outlet with an industrial grade one anyway to eliminate that possibility and to enhance the safety. If nothing is hot at the connector then it's a defective EVSE. And CCID = charge current interrupting devices. All EVSEs have them internally. Since the problem waited six months to show up I suspect it's prematurely worn contacts inside the EVSE.
I knew EVSE's have GFCI. I didn't know about all EVSE's being able to lower the current if things get hot in the box.... I bet you're right about the contactor having resistance/heat. What else could cause the heat? Good luck pleading your case and getting a warranty replacement. Keep us informed about that process!
Thanks! I doubt that all of the EVSEs can reduce power. I expect that most just shut off when they overheat. Anyway, I just finished replacing the POS 14-50 receptacle with a Bryant (made by Hubbell) industrial one. Upgraded the conduit to take #6 wire and installed #6 while swapping out the 40A breaker for 50A. It did not help one bit. It reduced power after only about 10 minutes. The hot spot is near the bottom of the back of the "brick." The cable gets pretty warm, too, right where it exits the bottom of the unit. So, probably Monday, I'll see if the dealer can make a friend. If not, I'll be shopping for a wall mount EVSE. In fact, I'll probably get one before long either way and keep the replacement portable one for travel. One guy on the Bolt forum said he just got his replaced and the new one was just as bad.
I would recommend Emporia. It's from a company based in Colorado, UL listed, and doesn't cost an arm and leg like other smart chargers. I've had mine for 1.25 years and it's been working great. I have it hardwired to run at 48 A but I can change the Amp on the fly with the app.
Still enjoying the Bolt EUV. Now that summer has arrived, I really like being able to precool the cabin on shore power and not have to wait for the battery to charge up again while the cabin bakes like with the Prime. In a couple weeks we're heading north in the EUV to go to Ohio.
One more thing. Two weeks ago, I registered the car with Recurrent | Buy, Drive & Sell Your Electric Car, Positively. They monitor the battery's condition a few times a day. So far, it's looking good. Hopefully, in another day or two it will start giving charging reports. Not enough data yet for that.
Just curious what the difference is in the precondition functions between these two cars? Are you saying that the Prime on a 3.3kW EVSE the AC uses more than 3.3kW of power during Precondition? Do both Gen 4 and 5 Primes have a Heat Pump system? I have a friend that is really interested in getting a Prime, Good Luck finding one, right?
It wasn't possible to precondition the first Volt on Level 1. The PP will do so, but by alternating between the HVAC and charging. Depending on the temperature, it might have to do so with Level 2. Compared to a Bolt, a Prius is more of a greenhouse.
Thanks for the update. I'm still considering getting one, in fact I ordered an EUV Premier from a local dealer with a refundable deposit. They told me it will likely be ready by mid-July/August. I test drove an EUV a few weeks ago, and it did seem a lot better than the Bolt I test drove in 2019. That seemed to have a very cheap plastic interior, but the EUV I drove is much nicer. Do you find there to be similar cabin space in the EUV compared to the Prius Prime? To me it seems like your passenger would be a little closer to you in the EUV, but I think both cars have similar width.
Wish we had Recurrent up here. With the way I charge the battery, I bet my SOH will be higher than other owners of similar vintage.
I think you mean it will use more power while doing a Precondition than the L1 can provide. It's always 'possible to precondition' plugged in or not. (But you can only do it twice in a row before visiting the car and powering it up.) And of course it depends on the outside temp and what it has to do, cool or heat. I owned a Volt. I now have a Bolt with a L2 - 16A EVSE, so when I ask for a precondition in 10° F temps while plugged in it will use some battery power initially. As the cabin warms up the power usage goes down and the EVSE then will keep up with demand and recharge the pack some. As for cooling the cabin, that takes much less power and the EVSE will always provide more than the AC is using.
Prius Prime has a precondition setting. It would maintain battery-temperature well above freezing using a dedicated warmer. In the dead of winter, I'd see it up near 50°F. So even without firing up the HVAC, it would already be warm.