Yellow Break warning light On dashbord 5 second after motor start

I don't know what you've done or how you've done it so I will attach some information about how the repair manual says to do it. It will be up to you to compare that with what you've already done thus far.

In regards to the SPIRAL CABLE, the steering wheel must be fitted correctly to the steering column with the spiral cable at the neutral position, as cable disconnection and other problems may occur. Refer to the information about the correct installation of the steering wheel.

I have attached:

• the procedure for removal and installation of the steering column. You will only need to do up to step 14 for the removal and pick up again at step 27 for the installation.
• the procedure for removing and installing the position sensor.
• the procdedure for initializing and adjusting the steering zero point.

The last procedure shows the screen images from the handheld tester, you should find a similar process in techstream. You shoiuld not have to use a paper clip at any point when using Techstream.

If it were me, I would drive the car finally stopping on a flat surface where you can work with the car's front wheels perfectly straight ahead. If the steering wheel is off-centre at this point I would then remove the steering wheel and the position sensor. I would check the position sensor is centred as per the installation procedure then go ahead and reassemble everything placing the steering wheel on level. With everything together I; then do the zero-point calibration.

I don't know if that helps but that's all I've got at this point.

 

You mean, literally, the car drives straight ahead with the steering wheel pointed that way?

If it is consistently so, the wheel just isn't put back on the shaft right. Put the wheel back on looking centered when the wheels point straight ahead. There is no sensor calibration procedure that will change this; the car is not steer-by-wire. The steering linkage is mechanical. The angle sensor is used for other purposes, like stability control.

Do, however, when you have the wheel off to recenter it, make sure the spiral cable is also in the center of its travel range when the wheels are straight ahead. If it isn't, you could break the cable the next time you turn a tight corner.

But I am especially concerned by your comment that "the steering wheel is centred when parked but after the first turn it gets completely off".

If the wheel is always off by the same angle and consistent, it just needs to be put on straight. But if it actually has a 40° range of motion that can correspond to straight-ahead wheels, you have a much more serious looseness in the mechanical steering linkage, and that should be fixed right away. I visited my sister once and her car was like that, you could drive straight ahead with the steering wheel almost anywhere within a quarter turn depending on which way you turned last. She was driving it like that was no big deal, and I read her the riot act, and she went to an alignment shop and got several worn linkage bits replaced and it was fixed.

Again, electronic calibrations are a distraction where that is concerned; the linkage is mechanical. And (here comes the riot act) the thing you really don't want is for it to go from 'loose' to 'disconnected' ... while you are driving.

 

I always remember that there are two skid ECU calibration procedures whose non-Techstream versions are identical except for whether the parking brake is on or off. I tend to forget exactly which two those are, but the linear solenoid and the yaw/acceleration zero might be the two. And at least one of them has a 'clear' step that has to happen first (unless the unit is fresh from the factory and never learned anything before). So if you happened to do the 'clear' for the solenoid offset (with or without realizing it), that would explain needing to learn it again.

Strictly speaking, as long as you never removed the center console or disturbed the yaw and acceleration sensor down there, you probably had no need to go through a calibration procedure. There isn't any needed when you change the steering angle sensor, which the ECU automatically calibrates (relying on the properly-calibrated yaw sensor), as post #17 explained.