Prius 2008 C1241, C1378,B1650, B1660, Is it worth repairing?

P3000 is not a focus for you at this time.

The P3000 has 5 INF codes (a/k/a sub-codes or Detail Codes) that will focus on the area of concern. It is more of a secondary code though when other codes are present. Out of interest, you could look at the sub-code to see if that makes sense. Click on the snowflake button to access the FFD where you will find the INF code.



INF codes are:
123 - Abnormal signal input from battery ECU (HV battery system malfunction)
125 - Abnormal signal input from battery ECU (High voltage fuse blown out)
603 - Abnormal signal input from battery ECU (HV battery cooling system malfunction)
388 - Abnormal signal input from battery ECU (discharge inhibition control malfunction)
389 - Abnormal signal input from battery ECU (a drop of high voltage)

If you have INF 389, I would strongly advise you not to try and start the car anymore unless you can charge the hybrid vehicle battery, although this may be a moot point given your other codes.

DTC C2318
The auxiliary battery voltage is applied to terminal +B of the transmission control ECU when the power switch is to IG-ON. The transmission control ECU outputs DTC C2318 when the input voltage is 9.3 V or less for 1 second or more.

Other than checking that your 12 V auxiliary battery is in good condition and that it is fully charged, you can park this one. In addition, it would be advisable to ensure you have a continuous supply of 12 V power (by leaving the charger on the 12 V battery) while you continue the diagnosis of the car. It is critical to have a good 12 V supply during the diagnosis stage.

That leaves you with the main codes on which to focus - P3024 and P0A80.

You cannot really say that, what you can say is that there is one cell in block 14 (a block consisting of 2 modules) that most likely has failed, which is what P3024 is telling you. P0A80 is a secondary code which just means general HV battery problems in this context. Block 9 is not looking so good either, but a top balance can help with that.

It is unfortunate, but fixing the other problems may just have pushed the HV battery over the edge. You might be able to buy yourself some time with a "Hail Mary" pass - i. e. top charging the HV battery and seeing what shakes out. It likely will be a waste of time.

You should replace the HV battery unless you like working on your car replacing failed modules from now on. If your car is in otherwise pristine condition and you want to keep the car for another 5 - 10 years, then you should replace the battery with a new OEM battery. DIY would be the cheapest route at $1650 - $1950 (plus taxes) for the battery after you take off the $1350 core deposit which is returned to you when you return the core. You will need up to $3,300 upfront, to begin with.

If your car is less than pristine and/or you don't intend to keep the car for the foreseeable future, you could try a second-hand battery but this is a crapshoot. The success of this option is finding a reliable and conscientious "rebuilder".

Good luck with your decisions and moving forward.

 

There are a few here on PC that offer such, but I've only tried @TMR-JWAP and saw no reason to look elsewhere.