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I am going insane - 2012 Gen 3; please help.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Basil_Leaf, Apr 12, 2023.

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  1. Basil_Leaf

    Basil_Leaf New Member

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    Hey guys,

    I made an account just to post this... Here are the details:

    Car: 2012 Gen 3, 134k miles

    Issue:     After following nutz drain and fill of the ICE coolant, car is not blowing hot air during maintenance mode. After getting up to temp, car shuts engine off and throws check hybrid system warning. This is accompanied by a check engine light. I haven't had the chance to get the codes.

    When hot enough, coolant begins to surge out of the reservoir, followed by a rapid clicking/popping sound from the reservoir. Turning off the car causes the coolant to stop surging; followed by a sucking sound and a click from the black plastic housing attached above the EGR.

    I believed the issue was the water pump, but after replacing the pump and the thermostat, nothing has changed.

    I can provide any additional info if needed; I've been trying to fix it for the last 2 days and I'm covered in dirt, antifreeze and tears.

    I'm gonna assume that it's because my head gasket is allowing exhaust in to the coolant; but was hoping you guys maybe had a few other things I can try before admitting to myself what's probably going on.
     
    #1 Basil_Leaf, Apr 12, 2023
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Well you answered your own question about head gasket. If you know you have a problem with the head gasket, all the other things you mentioned are just symptoms. You should check if you have enough coolant in there and the coolant cap is tight.
     
    #2 JC91006, Apr 12, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2023
  3. Basil_Leaf

    Basil_Leaf New Member

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    Well I suppose I don't KNOW; I am assuming the worst though.

    Any idea why it would happen all of the sudden though? The car was running with zero issues, all I did was drain and replace the coolant.
     
    #3 Basil_Leaf, Apr 12, 2023
  4. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Sounds like you've got an air bubble in there.

    Might also have a gasket issue making the bubble worse, but you should be able to get back to where you were.
     
    #4 Leadfoot J. McCoalroller, Apr 12, 2023
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  5. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Air bubble. Sounds like a big one. Squeezing the radiator hose while it's running can help push the air through the system. But it'll take a while. Keep an eye on the reservoir and make sure it doesn't get too low and make another bubble.
     
    #5 jerrymildred, Apr 12, 2023
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    @NutzAboutBolts video does not use the same fill procedure as the repair manual. The latter recommends to fill to the “B” line on reservoir, install the cap and run in maintenance mode.

    FWIW, I followed the video too, no issues. I did leave the vent open while filling (vent on early 3rd gens, incorporated in temp sensor junction, just above EGR components), had no issues. But maybe just lucky.
     

    Attached Files:

    #6 Mendel Leisk, Apr 12, 2023
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  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    How FAST did you refill the tank?
    I've done it 3 or 4 times on my Prius, and have never had a problem.
    I think the most important part is to fill SLOWLY! Very slowly.......
    Poor a cup or two, then wait. Repeat, repeat, repeat....
    Once the tank starts to fill, start squeezing the lower radiator hose.
    Then fill slowly again. When the tank is filled to the "B" mark, start
    squeezing the upper radiator hose, and hold it for a few seconds each time.
    Once the level stops going down, ready the Prius, and let the engine run until
    it shuts off. Turn the Prius off.

    Clean up and put all your tools away. Check the level and add to the "B" if needed.
    Then drive the car for 5 minutes or so close to home making sure the engine is cycled
    several times.
    Then park it on level ground and
    give it 10 minutes and check the level. It will probably be right at the seam.

    I've only done this at least 100 times on several cars and only once or twice have I ever had
    air in the system.

     
    #7 ASRDogman, Apr 12, 2023
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  8. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    Did you note the coolant level before draining?

    I followed the Toyota method as @Mendel Leisk kindly shared and didn't have any issues, level dropped from B to Full perfectly, (no valve for air release available, and I found it impossible to reach/squeeze the radiator hoses).

    I didn't even use proper Phosphate enhanced coolant, but mileage is only 35k mi currently, (forgot what it has back then).

    Contrary to consensus here in PriusChat I have bottles of K-Seal waiting to be added at the first indication of coolant loss. (Have used it on my wife's Panamera). I do follow instructions carefully...
     
    #8 jzchen, Apr 12, 2023
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  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    K Seal? No No No. Don't do it, you must resist!
     
    #9 JC91006, Apr 12, 2023
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    :confused:
     
    #10 Mendel Leisk, Apr 12, 2023
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  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Really not a lot of extra arm clearance there.
     
    #11 ChapmanF, Apr 12, 2023
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  12. Basil_Leaf

    Basil_Leaf New Member

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    Wow, this actually makes a lot of sense. I certainly did not go anywhere near that slowly! I think ill drain it again tonight and try to refill as slowly as possible. Maybe the thing I was lacking is patience?

    In any event, I ordered an OBD scanner and will be picking that up this afternoon. Im dedicated to getting my old girl back, so ill update the thread when I have some more information.

    Just want to say thanks for getting back to me guys! Ive been lurking here for a long time but its amazing to see how helpful the forum is when I myself needed something.

    Thank you!
     
    #12 Basil_Leaf, Apr 12, 2023
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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Maybe drain into a clean container and reuse?

    with 2012 you probably don’t have the aforementioned bleed valve. Just for giggles you could pull off one of the topmost hoses (at hose junction just above EGR components) and leave it disconnected while filling, till coolant comes out.
     
    #13 Mendel Leisk, Apr 12, 2023
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  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    On the other hand, Toyota added no such instruction to the refilling procedure, when they revised that tee to be without the valve; they just removed the steps where you'd fuss with the valve.
     
    #14 ChapmanF, Apr 12, 2023
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  15. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I've watched a Toyota video of them vacuuming out all the air and forcing in the coolant.
    I guess that's the way they do it. All you need is that $10-20,000 machine! (y):whistle:

     
    #15 ASRDogman, Apr 12, 2023
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  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You can get a UView AirLift for under $150.

    I used that technique once. I didn't find it enough of an improvement over the procedure in the manual to justify dragging out the compressor and paraphernalia to do it that way again.

    You can't do it partially; if you didn't get a complete flawless fill on the first try, you can't just try again. As the vacuum collapses the hoses, the coolant from the first try will be slurped and sprayed out the venturi. So if you line up all the dominoes just right the first time, happy day, else you drain and start over.
     
    #16 ChapmanF, Apr 12, 2023
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  17. Basil_Leaf

    Basil_Leaf New Member

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    Well, after picking up my OBD scanner from NAPA and running a scan; all I can say is this experience is a good reminder to myself to always have every tool I could need to do a job.

    Here's the result of my OBD scan:
    OBD.jpg

    And after researching the code, realizing it was an electrical issue I grabbed a fuse diagram and went to work... AND WHAT DO I FIND?

    FUSE.jpg
    engine.PNG

    Engine Water Pump Cooling System.


    Yeah, that's important.


    I've replaced the fuse, waiting until after work to finish filling and firing it up. Thank god; I see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!
     
    #17 Basil_Leaf, Apr 12, 2023
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  18. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Good diagnoises and trouble shooting work!

     
    #18 ASRDogman, Apr 12, 2023
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  19. Basil_Leaf

    Basil_Leaf New Member

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    One final update for anyone still following my saga.........


    :D:D:D:D:D:D:D
    SHE LIVES!!!!!
    :love::love::love::love::love::love::love:

    ​
    Huge appreciations to everyone who helped diagnose this with me! I genuinely was about to throw in the towel, but I was tossing and turning all last night and decided to give it a final try.

    For anyone who is lurking around with a similar issue, just as I was before creating my account; here is a breakdown of what I think occurred.

    1. Drained coolant as per the tutorial video from NutzaboutBoltz.
    2. Refilled coolant way, way too quickly. This gave me the false impression that the system was full to the "B" mark so I began maintenance mode.
    3. With a ton of air, and not enough coolant in the loop, the water pump ran dry, evidenced by the condition of the impeller when I removed the pump later on. It looks like running dry like that caused it to literally melt. PXL_20230410_065542707.jpg
    4. The motor seizing must have overloaded the fuse and went John Wick on it.
    5. Me being dumb didn't even think of that as an option; and had no knowledge of what the CEL code actually was.
    6. Pump isn't receiving power, I'm constantly boiling coolant and the heater core has zero flow.

    A good learning experience to say the least! So happy my head gasket is still alive (for now). Going to change the oil and clean the EGR again, as I am now traumatized. ;)

    I guess it was time to change the pump/thermostat anyways, so I guess it was actually a lucky break? :whistle:
     
    #19 Basil_Leaf, Apr 12, 2023
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  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Maybe the fuse is just the “messenger”? What’s the miles? <134k.

    The engine coolant pump has a propensity to fail, best replaced by 150k at latest. Thermostat too. < It’s time.
     
    #20 Mendel Leisk, Apr 13, 2023
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