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Strange Red Triangle Behavior

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Fractal20, Feb 12, 2023.

  1. Fractal20

    Fractal20 Junior Member

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    Hoping I could get some advice on some issues with my 2007 Prius that I have been having. It started last week with the red triangle coming on a couple of separate times. The car was still driving fine, so I still drove it in town (just a mile or two).

    Then yesterday, I when I tried to start the car the red triangle came on along with all the dashboard lights and the car would not start. The power button also stayed orange rather than green. If I tried to put it in drive nothing would happen and it would stay in park. It also would take a few times hitting the power button to turn it off. I tried turning it on a couple of times, and eventually the green lights, like park, drive, neutral, along with the the fuel gauge would flash, and the gas gauge went to a single bar.

    I did a brief Google and it sounded like that specific flashing green lights and the single gas bar is related to issues with the 12 volt battery. So this morning my plan was to take out the 12 volt battery and take it to an auto parts store to see if they could test it, but I wanted to try to starting it again. At first it had the same symptoms, e.g. where the red triangle came on along with all the dashboard lights and the car would not start. The power button also stayed orange rather than green. Then some warning came up on the dash about issues with "P" and to park on a flat service. But then suddenly the engine started and all the warning lights turned off. Everything seems to be working correctly.

    One thing I should mention is I live in a very cold place, and it has been regularly between -10 and -20 degrees at night the last week or two.

    Any ideas? I would assume if the 12 volt was dead or near dead that it would not have started this morning (I also replaced the 12 volt a year ago).

    Thanks for your time!
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You need to have the 12 volt low tested they can do this at Menards or advance Auto with the battery sitting in the car You need to take the plastic tray up so they have access to get to the battery Don't do this all up front at the charge points or the jump point at the battery always You need to find out if your battery can pass a load test and then maybe you'll flip the car on and see what your inverter's putting to the battery when it's supposed to be charging the battery 13.5 on up to a maximum of probably 14.5 and all that before you go any further you have to have somebody that knows what they're doing confirm that you're 12 volt is up to snuff not 11.5 volt not 11.7 12 volt is up to snuff and is capable of powering the computers the headlights and the stuff it needs to doesn't matter if it was replaced a year ago. You need to know now because -10 and 20 is nothing to play around in.
     
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  3. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    Buy a digital voltmeter (they are inexpensive) and learn how to use it. If your 12v Battery voltage is low (< 10v) it will not be able to run the pumps and initialize the computers and you will see the symptoms that you wrote about. A charged 12v battery will be over 12v and the battery voltage when your Prius is ready to run will be about 14v (slowly charging the 12v battery).

    JeffD
     
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  4. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    The dash lights mean there's an error code that's been stored that will tell you what the problem is... Just guessing at the problem is not as effective as knowing the exact problem. You really gonna spend all that money on a new 12v when you don't know if that will fix it? Maybe charge up the 12v while you buy one of these devices to read the error codes with your phone and an appropriate app: Hybrid battery diagnostic and repair tool for Toyota and Lexus
     
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  5. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    If you don't drive the car very often, the battery will "self discharge" very slowly over time, there is a tiny "phantom drain" from the car AND the extreme cold will further temporarily reduce the capacity too.

    So you probably need to fully change the battery manually, at the very least, and consider attaching a battery tender when not driven for more than 2 weeks at a time, or only for short trips over any period of time.

    BUT.....your symptoms also sound like a bad connection on the main battery cables, which can get worse with cold too.
    The negative cable connection to the frame/body is often trouble.

    So, get your battery charged and tested. The longer you leave it low, the more it will be damaged.
    And get those cables checked; BOTH ends.
     
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  6. Fractal20

    Fractal20 Junior Member

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    Thanks everybody for all the feedback!

    I took the battery to NAPA. It tested okay, but needed to be charged so I left it for a couple of hours to get trickle charged. I just put it back in. When I started the car, it initially had similar symptoms. All the orange lights were on (no red triangle though) and if I tried to put it in drive, it would just go to neutral and the engine didn't start at all. I turned it off and on a couple of times and then it turned on like normal, no lights and the engine started and it went into drive.

    Is it normal to have such oddities when the battery is reconnected? Any suggestions? Just drive it and see if any error codes are generated and then get them run?

    Thanks again everybody.
     
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yes, it is normal. drive it and see if anything comes back. hopefully, the battery was the problem.

    even though it tested okay, keep your eye on it, it may not be.
     
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  8. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If it need to be charged, a couple of hours on a trickle charge isn't going to do it.

    It should be left charging until the charge cycle completes and will likely take something like 18 to 24 hours if it was close to fully flat.
     
  9. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    NO. See my post #5 above.
    And.....sometimes batteries test "good" when they aren't really.

    P.S. No battery store uses a "trickle charger"........for anything.
     
  10. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I guess one could perceive these things as oddities if they did not know to expect them.
     
  11. nicoj36

    nicoj36 Active Member

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    Just replace the battery to be safe and avoid getting stuck somewhere
     
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  12. Fractal20

    Fractal20 Junior Member

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    Hi all, an update and more questions about the battery:

    As for the battery, I am really hesitant to fork out the money on a new battery unless I can be sure the old one is bad. I don't know what the charger is like that NAPA used, I just assumed a "trickle charge" and I am assuming that people don't hold their tester in high regard based on the responses here. e.g. the fact that their tester said it was good but needed to be charged, them charging it for a few hours, and then their testing it and saying that it checks out doesn't mean much. (Also, they said the amps were reading much higher, like 500-600 then is listed on the battery... which seems weird?).

    If I push off replacing the battery (again I just am hesitant to spend the money when I'm not absolutely sure it's bad since I had to buy a new one just a year ago) is there any sure signs that it is definitely the issue? Or are symptoms of a 12 volt battery going bad too varied and intermittent to really know?

    Now for the update. I drove the car across town (~2 miles), and the red triangle and the oil light came on. I wasn't familiar with the oil light so I looked it up and saw that over filled oil can cause it. Indeed, the oil was about an inch above the upper mark on the dipstick! I last got my oil changed about 5 months ago. Lesson learned to always check that. Though I'm not sure if it is strange to not have an issue with that until now?

    It was the evening at this point so I left it there. Today I went back to the car and it turned on like normal with no error lights (it is finally warm, and by warm here I mean 32 degrees). Since NAPA is on the way to the oil place, I stopped there and had them test the battery and they still claimed it was looking fine. Since there were no error lights they couldn't read the codes.

    I guess a few questions

    1) Is there any symptoms that definitively point to the battery being dead at this point? I'll head to NAPA to get the error codes read as soon as any come back on.

    2) This is partly just curiosity at this point, is it odd for the the over filled oil to not cause the oil light to come on until 5 months later?

    3) To Sam Spade 2, you said the it sounds like the connection on the main battery could cause these symptoms as well. Can you point me to a resource on how to look into this? I did a little Googling and couldn't fine anything. Then went on to mention the negative cable connection to the frame/body could also be an issue. Just to be clear, I'm assuming you mean the negative cable connection on the 12 volt battery right?

    Thank you everybody!
     
  13. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Yes.
    Sometimes it costs MORE to try and "do it yourself".
    Often the fee for a diagnosis is money well spent. Sometimes not.

    For instance, having the oil just a bit high on the dipstick is not likely to be the cause of the oil light coming on.......especially after it has been like that for 5 months with no apparent problem.

    I kind of hate to mention this but.......if the oil level is actually going UP, that could be a blown head gasket.
     
  14. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    You say that you replaced the 12v battery one year ago. Did you buy it at NAPA or someplace else? You have a warranty on the battery if it turns out to be the problem.

    Take a look at post #3. Do you have a digital volt meter? If not, you should buy one and check your 12v battery when the car has been off for 12 hours.

    When the car is turned on, the 12v battery is slowly charged from the high voltage (traction) battery. If you only drive the car a few times each week and for short drives, the 12v battery does not get fully charged. Also, the longer the car sits unused, the 12v battery will decrease in voltage. Once your voltage drops too low, your car will not go into "ready" when you step on the brake pedal, and you will not be able to start the car. So, it it a good idea to have a digital volt meter to check the state of your battery.

    If you do not drive the car very much and have access to 120v, you should buy a good trickle charger and connect it to your 12v battery (at the battery in the back OR at the fuse box in front under the hood). Then you will not have any problems with the 12v battery getting low and the car not starting.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #14 Brian1954, Feb 20, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2023
  15. Fractal20

    Fractal20 Junior Member

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    I do have a digital volt meter I will test the battery tomorrow after it has been off over night. I was doing a little Googling about testing the battery. Somethings suggested also turning on the brights and stereo and to keep measuring the voltage over 15 minutes or so. Would you suggest something like that?

    Thanks Sam Spade 2 for all the help. I would love to take it in, but I live in a pretty remote small town and there is nobody here who deals with hybrids really. So that is mainly why I am hoping to be able to diagnose problems myself, though of course it would have to be pretty minor for me to be able to do anything. I'll cross my fingers about the head gasket. So you think an inch high on the dipstick isn't necessarily that bad?
     
  16. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Just measure the battery voltage in the morning to determine the state of charge of the battery. More testing can be done later.

    What is your normal driving pattern? How many days each week do you drive the car, and how long are the drives? How many days does the car sit unused between drives?





    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  17. Fractal20

    Fractal20 Junior Member

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    In the winter the car just gets driven around town. I'd estimate 5 out of 7 days a week it gets driven, but only 2-4 miles each day usually. And as mentioned before, it is cold here, and we just had a couple of weeks with the low often being in the -10 to -20 range. So it certainly makes sense that the battery is draining. Outside of the winter, it gets driven further, but when it is snowy it just makes sense to use my wife's RAV4 for trips out of town.

    Of course, I've also wondered how the harsh winters are on the hybrid battery system as well...
     
  18. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    2 to 4 miles of driving in the winter is not enough to charge the 12v battery. So over time, the 12v battery is draining down and will need to be charged. I assume the battery that you bought one year ago was the recommended AGM battery equivalent to the OEM battery. I am guessing that your battery is still good, but you should charge it a minimum of one time each week during the winter.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  19. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Just to be clear, when you checked the oil, did you wait five minutes or more, remove the dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert the dipstick, remove it again, and then look to see where the oil came up to on the dipstick?
     
  20. Roll Eyes

    Roll Eyes Junior Member

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    Recently, in the second half of the year 2022, I did not drive my Prius for 4 months and left the battery hooked back in the hatchback. I did not disconnect the battery and put it on a trickle charge, for the 4-month period I did not drive the Prius. As I wasn't driving the Prius and some components, even if the car was not driven, consume power, the battery was dead after 4 months, as expected. One day when I decided to reuse the Prius, I jumpstarted the Prius, drove it and parked it in my garage, left it overnight with the engine on in the parking mode in my garage, and was able to bring the 12 volt battery back to life. By starting and leaving the Prius in parking mode overnight, I do not think it even consumed half a gallon of gas.

    I read somewhere that the Prius, when the engine is on and running, manages to recharge the battery itself. You do not have to drive for the Prius to charge the 12 volt battery. As long as the Prius's engine is on and running and you leave it in parking mode, it recharges the battery. It worked for me, and that was how I brought back my Prius's dead 12 volt battery back to life. After bringing the dead battery to life, I took it to Auto Zone and have the battery tested. The battery passed the test and looked good. I am still driving my Prius using the same 12 volt battery.

    In my experience, harsh winters do have an affect on a Prius 12 volt battery, especially if the battery was used for 2 or 3 years. The dead battery that I said I brought back to life was not able to start my Prius on the mornings of a couple of days this winter, when it was extremely cold, and I had to jumpstart the Prius. The same battery was able to start the Prius when temperatures were higher the very next day, without any issue.

    A relatively new battery, i.e., a battery that was used for about an year or less than a year, should be able to start Prius without an issue in harsh winters.

    P.S. I bought an used Prius that came with an old battery. I have yet to replace my old 12 volt battery with a new battery, to have my own real experience and understanding of how the new battery functions and its capabilities in a Prius.
     
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