My official Prius Plus mods thread.

I plan to convert my Prius to a Prius-Plus or Pi-Prius with the help of Calcars and Priuschat. I figure that there are Prius chatters interested in this conversion, if not in actually doing it then at least in theory. Once again I am putting my car on the line for you.

I want this page to be a technical discussion about the conversation and not about the merits of, or the financial return of the conversion. Also I want to put detailed information about this modification here. Let me state here and now that I will most likely pay more for my daily driving with the conversion rather then without it. Let’s have those conversions elsewhere. Why do it then? Well, for me it is about getting off of foreign oil as much as possible. For others it is about global warming, and for a few it is about the cool factor of having the EV range.

First I needed to pick what type of conversion I wanted to go with. From what I understand now there are three main ways to convert you Prius. Please correct me if I am wrong about any of this stuff as I am learning too.
1. Prius Plus method
2. PiPrius method
3. Hydromotion method

The Prius Plus method uses a second pack to feed power into the hybrid system, and to retrieve regenerative power from the hybrid system during operation. The Prius Plus method uses a set number of batteries to obtain a voltage of 240 volts and uses a specific charger to charge a battery pack at that voltage. Usually the pack is 20, 12volt batteries.

The PiPrius method uses a second pack to feed power into the system and I am not sure if it can accept regenerative power back into the second pack. That would be a great question to answer here. However one advantage is that it uses a custom charger to both charge the pack and to convert it voltage to the needed 240volts. Another question we need an answer to, is the PiPrius feed voltage into the hybrid system 240volts. The second advantage is you can use fewer batteries as the charger/voltage converter changes the voltages fed into hybrid system. For example you could have 10, 12volt batteries with a voltage of 120volts and convert it to 240 volts. This can save you some of the battery expense but the charger is twice as much.

The Hydromotion method removes the original Hybrid battery all together and replaces it with a Li-Ion pack. Because of this the entire battery control unit (brain) must be replaced with a new one made by Hydromotion, or I guess, you could make your own.

Ok from all this I started looking for similar main parts of the conversion.

1. They all have a second battery pack.
2. They all need a charger.
3. They all need a control system for putting the packs in parallel and taking them out. In the hydromotion case they still need a control system to operate the new pack.
4. Prius Plus and PiPrius need CAN-View and I don’t know about the Hydromotion conversion.

Since I am not shelling out $12,000 for a Hydromotion 10 mile PHEV rage, nor do I want to design my own battery computer, I will not be going that route. So I figure if I go the Prius Plus or the PiPrius method, I can start with buying the parts that could be used in either system. For now lets not get into the resistor level of the parts that would be needed, let’s start with the main stuff.

CAN-View “V4â€

Both methods need a CAN-View so I started there. I have a 2006 Prius so my MFD can’t be used for the CAN-View at this time. For that reason, you need to buy a second touch screen for your car.

Pros. I can use my MFD for what it was intended such as my navigation system and audio controls while the CAN-View is operating on the other screen.

Cons. The second screen costs $351.00 and it takes up more space in your car then just the MFD alone.

You can’t just get any touch screen as each have a different set of USB communications, so you have to choose between the two types of screens the CAN-View has written USB interface drivers for. CAN-View is run as a one-man hobby business and he was nice enough to seek out the cheapest screen on the market and created a driver for it. Then when they became in short supply, he found the next cheapest screen and created yet another driver for it. He is a very nice guy, and very helpful.

Now I was going to get a CAN-View one day anyway so for me that is not part of the expense to convert my car, however it would be for someone else so I have to keep that cost in this equation.

CAN-View for a 2006 A.K.A. “V4â€

Base Cost $299.00
Relays for controlling the second pack $50.00
Serial port for capture of data (Not needed but the information will be beneficial to Calcars so I sprung for it.) $40.00
Shipping could be up to thirty bucks, but for Houston it was $14.00
Touch screen $351.00
Shipping for touch screen I’m guessing $20.00 (I’ll buy the screen next paycheck and update that later.)

CAN-View total $774.00.

If I go for the cheap lead acid batteries I’m already about a fourth of the way there on the total cost of this conversion, and I wanted CAN-View anyway.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(elecblue @ Dec 1 2006, 01:09 AM) [snapback]356120[/snapback]</div>

Yes, I am in Houston. Did you "Complete" the PiPrius conversion, or do you still need to install the voltage regulators? I should receive my V4 early next week, but I still have to order my screen for it. I would love to chat with you regarding the PiPrius as I may have to go that route if I am able to get the battery pack I want.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sub3marathonman @ Dec 1 2006, 08:59 AM) [snapback]356171[/snapback]</div>

Simple answer is, Yes! You figured out what most, including myself, couldn’t on their own. That is what a Prius Plus is. Twenty batteries for 240 volts charged at night with a cheaper "Delta Q" charger and no DC to DC voltage converter. The “Delta Q†charger charges the whole pack at the same time, so you only need one charger and only one outlet in the garage.

Look here is the deal I decided long ago to get a CAN-View, so for me that is just a given. Once I have it, what is the cost of the conversion for me? Well, about $700.00 less then someone, with a 2006, who did not have a CAN-View already.

That being said you now have to get a pack with a voltage of 240 volts, or you have to get better more expensive batteries put in series. Since the better more expensive batteries cost so much you may only want ten of them, so you have to get yourself a DC to DC converter.

So now that we have come full circle you have to decide for yourself on a cheaper conversion now using 20 batteries, or a more expensive charger that is also a DC to DC converter so you can use fewer batteries, to off set its cost.

On top of all that how much do they weigh? What are their dimensions? Will they fit? Will they be too heavy for the springs? Do they get hot during charge or discharge? Can they be charged cold or do you have to provide heating for them to take a good charge?

Thank you both , this is exactly why I wanted to post on Priuschat. There is a lot of factor that need to be ironed out for my conversion and I am still learning. This helps.

 

To be honest, I don't know right now. The V4 can come with relays on the board for an extra 40 bucks. They are controlled by parameters as requested by Calcars.org. I asked Ron of Calcars it I need the relays and he said yes. Truth be told when I get this all figured out I will post what it is doing and if it is really needed. I see you have a 2005 so you can use the V3 that way you won’t have to buy a second screen, but you will have to buy a separate board with the relays on it.

We will figure this all out soon as a group.

 

sub3marathonman,
You know you might have found a cheaper way to do this conversion and we can elaborate on that. For someone like me or you that might work with automatic switches that can isolate the batteries for charge and a special 40 pin plug that plug all 20 chargers in at the same time. However, I can't picture most people getting home and connecting 20 chargers. It is something to consider though.

elecblue,
It is the low 40s, or upper 30s here in Houston tonight.

 

Moving On!

I just received my CAN-View "V-4" today and it is so small as compared to the V3 I saw before. I would guess 1"hight by 4"wide by 5"long. I could plug it in right now, but I need for the screen to come it first. I am opting for the more expensive screen as it has an auto on feature and that should come in handy.

So the screen is the next step and I hope to get that here in about a week. I would like the thank Norm as he worked with me as I wavered back and forth on whether or not to get the USB programming port added. I ended up with it after all. I may decide to change the mounting location to under the dash as I think the wiring may be easer that way, but I can worry about that next week.

 

Picture Time!
V4
[attachmentid=5844]
Inputs/outputs
[attachmentid=5845]
[attachmentid=5846]
This is the screen I need to order. (Lilliput629GL-70NP)
[attachmentid=5847]

 

Thanks the Lilliput is a touch screen and I do most of my mods so they can be removed without a trace. I've been thinking right in front or to the left of the steering wheel, but as I am right handed I may move it later.
Thanks.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(elecblue @ Dec 5 2006, 11:06 PM) [snapback]358319[/snapback]</div>

Yes. You can see them on the board. They are the six black boxes closest to the relay connector.

Once my CAN-View V4 is installed, I only have two other sections for this project, the Battery, and the control system. The control system I need, will change depending on the batteries I get. However, I want to document the installation of the V4 first. Due to the separate screen needed for the 2006 and higher models, I am rethinking the placement of the CAN-View box. I am leaning toward an in or under dash mount for my project as there is no need to tap into the NAV system any longer. By doing this, the monitor cables will not need to be lengthened, and the cables overall can be shorter thereby saving money, and time.

 

John in LB,
That is a great idea, however there are some issues with that. First, without a plug the power still comes from your gas tank. The batteries would be charged by the engine to 80% and then used, down to 60%. That would give you an EV only range that would max out at about 3.5 or 4 miles with that second pack. Next there are heating and cooling issues with this type of pack upon charge and discharge so you will need to account for greater cooling. Finally, you would be carrying more weight so you efficiency would go down slightly.

This has been done and I don't have the link right now but it is being tested.

What I am trying to do is to get everyone to switch to pure EV cars. Being a reasonable man, I know that is not going to happen in our culture, so I am working on the next best thing. Cars that can, for most people, run all week on pure EV to get them to and from work and also to do some errands. Then whenever needed the same car can be used for longer trips without stopping to recharge as the U.S. does not have a "quick" recharging station infrastructure yet. These conversions turn most hybrids, not just the Prius into PHEVs. For some, like myself, I will be working on obtaining a new house where I can put photovoltaics and small wind turbines on the roof for charging my car. For others they can just plug in where ever they park.

We have been told that nobody wants those stupid hybrids! As we have seen, those auto manufactures that have produce quality hybrids have had their profits skyrocket. Obviously, we are willing to do things that are better for the environment if “reasonable†alternatives are presented to us. While I feel that a $36,000 PHEV conversion is not only “unreasonable†but “insane,†we have to start some where. I am working on converting my Prius PHEV to use in shows and demonstrations whenever possible. However, I will still need to use it as transportation to and from work witch will allow for a lot of data to be collected.

I can only afford to do a PHEV10 conversion but my commute is about 30 miles each day. At this time I have not picked my battery pack yet, but if I do have to go with a lead acid pack, I hope to keep the price as low as $2,500 with a little ingenuity and recycled parts.

Your question, one I had myself, shows you might be on your way down the path to a PHEV one day. Prices on Li-ion should drop as production and demand increases. Until then we have reasonably priced lead acid batteries.