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Gen 4 into Gen 3 swap fail

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by C-in-DC, Jan 14, 2023.

  1. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    mmm if it's been sitting for a year, after having water in the cylinders...
    The walls may be pitted. Is the head still on it?
    The way to tell is to either run a bore scope in the spark plug holes and look.
    The best way is to remove the head and look at each cylinder.
    You never had to add oil between oil changes? What mileage intervals did you change the oil at?

    If it wasn't burning any oil between oil changes, maybe just a new head gasket.
    And have a machine shop check the head for warpage and MAYBE they can machine it
    if it's not too bad. That would be the least expensive way of doing it. Easy since the engine is out.
    Keep the receipts and sell it as used with a new head gaskets and take photos of everything.

     
  2. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    culprit of the cylinder 1 misfire was a hole in the intake. Took it to a friends shop who Sealed it with Jb weld. Code cleared.
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Cleaning got a little too zealous?
     
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  4. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Head gasket issue started this time last year. It finally died in December. The head is still on the block. I plan on taking it to a machine shop. $275 seemed like a good price for testing and machining. They won’t hone the block though.

    I never had to add oil between changes. I changed it every 3,000-4,000 Miles.

    Where would I sell the engine online? Would anyone really buy it? I’ve seen some online for 500. My other thought is buying another Prius with a bad engine, swap it in, and flip the car to recoup the money for all the parts (spark plugs, egr, ex manifold, one coil, fuel injectors, etc)
     
  5. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    2nd car sounds like a good idea. Unless you find someone who needs an engine....

     
  6. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    Yea I was paranoid did the same I put in 3 holes. you really just need to bleed the system like ten times never never letting get over 195 during the process as it can run away from you and shoot to 210 real fast. always using the ac to keeping the fans running keeping the car cool. Dialed in to me is 195 to 201-203 under stress test and normal operation should be 195-197.6 to 199 and back down.to 195.
     
  7. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    After research, I’ve decided to just scrap the engine at a metal yard. It should fetch at least $80 because it’s aluminum. Machine shop would’ve been $475 machining testing, honing etc plus 120 for the head gasket. I’ll end up spending a hellacious amount of time and money and giving someone a 230,000+ engine. Not worth it for the money and not worth doing wrong to someone else with a high mileage engine.
     
  8. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    @johnnychimpo

    I’ve noticed pressure in the Degas bottle since the jiggle pin was cut. I hear the coolant swish through at start up. So far, I have NOT seen a drop in coolant level at the degas bottle. Is this something you noticed after modifying the thermostat? I’m hoping the jiggle pin removed and the secondary hole is creating the pressure and not another blown head gasket.
     
  9. ZBrink

    ZBrink Member

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    How did everything turn out? Did you ever get the new engine all squared away?
     
  10. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    so far I’ve driven about 23,000 on the gen 4 engine. Did have a Bunch of other issues with the car. Mainly egr, cat, wheel bearing etc.

    The engine occasionally shakes momentarily when it starts up. I think that might be because I didn’t tighten the flywheel bolts enough or it could be a leaky engine valve stem. It doesn’t feel the same as the death rattle from the blown gasket and I don’t get any cylinder misfires. But who knows.

    Hoping to clean the EGR soon and replace the coolant just because I’m paranoid.