My dash is lit up like a Christmas tree!

Whenever I hear of the dreaded Christmas-tree lights in a Prius, my first question is, "How old is the 12-volt battery?"

Wouldn't hurt running a battery-tester on her. When the 12-volt starts going out, out comes the Christmas tree!!

 

We may have a new winner in the genre of "all the things I've tried in lieu of getting the trouble codes."

Will your Solus thingy show you the trouble codes? Can you post those here?

If it won't, the codes from all the brake/skid related lights (probably not the PCS though) can be retrieved with no more than a piece of wire:

Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat

The hazard-flasher business probably won't have an explanation in terms of codes. I'll guess that's something electrical, maybe just jostled when you avoided the bozo. The hazard-switch circuit is wired to the brake actuator (as an input, when things aren't b0rked), and at least you're not getting the shorted-to-speed-signal flashy business, but simply pulling that line to ground is all it takes to make the flashers flash.

Even the trouble codes you have, which likely won't be directly about that, may shed some light on it, such as by indicating what else may have been jostled when you avoided the bozo.

 

9 years? Holy moly! My wife noticed hers in her 2017 will be 6 years old this year and wants me to replace it (it, still, tests fine)...so what Momma wants Momma gets!

 

YOU are not doing anybody any favors encouraging folks to go directly to trouble codes and trust them to solve every problem in the world.

It has been pointed out to YOU several times that you can NOT rely on trouble codes if your 12 V system has low voltage.
This is pointing that out to you yet again.

Check the 12 V battery and it's main connections first.

 

Yes, isn't it remarkable how many times I've been represented as telling folks to trust codes to solve every problem (which is kind of rich, considering), and how many times I've been pressured to agree with you that low battery voltage makes the trouble codes so unreliable it's not worth even knowing what they are, and how many times that representation and that pressure has come from, specifically, you, or your former screen name of several years back.

Your grasp of what you're talking about has little improved over that long stretch, and you'll understand if I don't invest the same effort toward helping with that as I may have in years past.

Turning again to more solvable problems ...

That is probably a worthwhile step, especially in light of the hazard-light behavior. Something flaky right there at that connector isn't the only possible cause, but it would be simple, and it's not ruled out.

It sounds like you might be thinking there's one Service Engine Soon, or service, light that should be on whenever there are trouble codes anywhere, but that's not how the Prius works. There are a couple dozen different ECUs and they set their own codes and light their own lights. The engine light will be on chiefly if there are engine codes. The brake system has its own codes, and works the ((!)), ABS, BRAKE, and VSC skiddy-car light.

(There are some exceptions. The engine light, a/k/a MIL, maintenance indicator light, is also specified to turn on for certain codes from the power management control ECU, which ordinarily uses the triangle light. And the brake system can set certain codes, and light its own lights, for certain issues that aren't in the brake system.)

Seeing those lights on and having a scan tool tell you there aren't codes can be a pretty common experience depending on the scan tool you're using. Not all of them can talk to all the car's ECUs. The brake system, in particular, has a way to give you its codes with no scan tool at all, and I don't hesitate to use any time a scan tool is giving odd results.

Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat

A quick battery voltage check is easy to do and not a bad idea, even if it is less often the source of all badness than Sam seems to think. I would be even more suspicious of it if you said you had a C1241 code (or 41 blink code), as the brake system will set that for you if it sees its supply voltage or any of several internal voltages going out of conservative limits.

Which brake service mode are you thinking of, and how are you planning to check?

 

Just replace your battery

 

There is no "grasp" involved.
It is the TRUTH.
The truth will set you free.

None is so blind as those who WILL not see.

So......as long as I am here and you continue to fail to mention low voltage as a possible cause of multiple warning lights that show up all of a sudden.......I will correct your oversight for the benefit of others.

What you are doing is NOT generally helpful.

 

As would be seen, I imagine, in a comparison of the number of people we've been able to talk through complete resolutions of their issues. A good evening to you too.

 

I'm not sure I'd know that exact sound by heart, but the pump's ordinary normal sound might be likened to a joy buzzer, or an uninspired rattlesnake. Is it like that?

The C1345 and C1368 are related. C1451 makes me crabby; here's why. Are the five codes in your photo the only ones, or does that Solus screen scroll to show more?

What is the current situation with the hazard lights?

What voltages did you read, and what were your loaded and idle conditions, by the way? Better off just posting them, around here; just saying "there where it should be" is like a red cape to a bull ... you may find out what I mean.

When you say "the ECM agrees", do you mean you looked at the battery voltage PID in its data list, or just that it hadn't given a code about it?

To my knowledge, the ECM is not one of the ECUs that will voice strong opinions about the battery voltage. The brake/skid ECU is one of the ones that will, and so will the Transmission Control ECU (which is a very grandiose name for the one that moves the single metal thingy in and out of the transmission when you park and unpark).

 

I would defer the rear speed sensor for later; I don't share the belief that it would account for the locked-out behavior.

C1451 very much does lock out the pump from running. That's what C1451 is for. So ordinarily I would steer you at that first, because nothing else is happening while C1451 is there.

Only problem is, you clear C1451 by doing the bleed procedure, and you said you couldn't get that working.

Also, the specific history of your issue has some unusual bits. C1451 doesn't normally appear by itself; it appears when you go into ECB Invalid Mode using a scan tool. But I didn't hear that you did that.

C1345 doesn't appear unless the system wants to learn its linear solenoid offset. That's generally a once at installation thing, or if you have just cleared the offset to learn it again. (It may be that a started but not completed bleed procedure leaves it in that state.)

And this story began when you maneuvered violently to avoid a bozo, and there is this hazard-lights business, which is definitely not normal, and suggests an electrical connection might have been jostled. Honestly, if it were my car, that would be floating to the top of my investigate list, as I might see what else could have been jostled. Have you had the cowl off to look at that connector yet?

You might have missed my question about voltage in #16 ... I edited that probably while you were posting.

Have you popped the hazard light button itself out of the instrument panel and unplugged it, to see if the lights stop flashing? (I'm going to guess they don't, but it's still a guess until you try it.)