New acquisition/Brake warning lights won’t go off

It could mean hundreds of things. We'll just wait for the codes.

 

Looks brake related, was there any damage to the wheel/suspension areas, or rusting of related sensors etc? (given your location)

 

Sooner you can convey visible damage, sooner we can get started... Same with error codes....

 

The brake system, very conveniently, is one of the systems you can get the codes from even if you haven't got Techstream working yet and even if the scan tool you are using tells you there aren't any:

Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat

 

Techstream, because Torque can only talk to the ECM, HV battery, and hybrid control ecu's on a Gen2.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Do you hear a whirring pumping sound like an electronic pump working If you owned an ABS motorcycle or piece of power sports equipment you pull the brake and you hear this motor worrying away it's the same when you put your foot on the Prius brake pedal You hear the whirring You take your foot off the brake It should stop within 20 seconds or something around there. So when you get out of the car after you've been driving it and you close the door locking it or not you hear that whirring pumping sound within 30 seconds generally speaking that should stop If it goes on a little longer than that the pump is starting to run more than it used to generally speaking and that usually happens because there's a small internal leak in this thing called the accumulator which is where the pumped up fluid under pressure sits waiting for you to hit the brake pedal and then shoots that pressurized brake fluid to squeeze calipers and wheel cylinders and then when that pressure is released the pump immediately comes on to pump more pressure back to the accumulator or some similar circumstance happens and now you're hearing this pump run longer and longer and then you get these three Amber lights on alerting you that things are not happy with ABS traction control and VSC vehicle skid control generally now there are other things that can make this happen but if this kind of mileage where the car is located things like that is something to be keeping an eye on. You can take a mechanic stethoscope and after the brake pump stops whining you can stick your stethoscope end right on the accumulator cylinder and with your listening ears on and your mouth closed and nothing running you listen to that accumulator for a little pissing noise that's fluid leaving the accumulator or something similar when it's not supposed to when you replace that accumulator pump assembly and you listen to it again and it's working properly you won't hear that leaking down and your pump will be back to running to 18 to 24 seconds or so and shutting off Good luck.

 

... but you are never more than a simple jumper wire away from the blink codes.

 

Ah yes, sorry forgot abut the jumper wire.

I did the jumper wire method just now, here is what I got. I triple checked so I think I got it right:

(!) 67, 68
ABS 42
VSC 45

That is what I got, looks like 42 on ABS and 45 on VSC just means check the (!). I am searching right now for what 67 and 68 mean.

 

68 blinked on the ECB light is C1202, and that is an issue with the brake fluid level (or with the switch and wiring that senses it).

67 on the ECB light is C1368, and indicates that something didn't go right in learning the linear solenoid valve offset.

It would be odd for that one to just go away by itself: usually you have to tell the brake system when to do the offset learning, or it could happen at the end of the bleeding procedure if you do that.

Is there any chance you just had the 68, and miscounted the blinks one time it went by?

Edit: hmm, wait, I was responding to scotb's post, and I think scotb really meant to post that in a different thread.