Do these bus bar connections look corroded enough to cause HV errors?

i would say yes, but that looks more like rust. any green on them?

 

Hopefully you didn’t clean the nuts with vinegar and salt.

 

The busbars mostly corrode where you can see it, and where you can see it is where it doesn't matter. With the nuts torqued correctly, the contacting surfaces (where it does matter, and you can't see it) are under enough pressure to stay gastight, and protected from corrosion. Those areas tend to still be shiny when revealed by removing the nuts and bars.

If you've been playing whack-a-mole for a while, replacing an individual module or two now and then, it sounds like the rest of the pack hasn't been getting any younger, and you've just got more moles this time 'round.

 

Well, if you are adventurous and wearing protective gear, you can remove the module and grab the stud with vice grips and see if it will unscrew. Getting it to seal again might be a challenge.

Me, I wouldn't as KOH is a potentially nasty electrolyte.

If you are getting a P0A80 then the battery ecu is seeing too much voltage difference between blocks at some point during use. Assuming that the voltage sense wires and ecu connection are ok, then your battery modules are problem.

Doesn't matter how many you replaced when- some have different capacities and/or state of charge than others.

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What's your price for telling us what the code was, then?

 

I recognize the handwriting on those module stickers. If you need new fasteners, McMaster Carr has stainless available under item # 93033A106. They are almost exactly identical to the OEM, just very slightly smaller in flange diameter. A pack of 50 is currently less than $12.
Very important to torque these fasteners correctly to 48 inch-pounds. (Equivalent to 4 ft-lbs). Some people/shops use 60 inch pounds, but the Toyota repair manual states 48. 60 is safe, but it's easy to go too far and damage the stud threads. There's no easy reliable repair for that, except replacing the module.

 

in LA? no idea. has the car ever spent time in a moist environment?

 

I've seen the nuts get the zinc coating stripped off when using solutions for removing previous corrosion. Unfortunately, once the zinc is removed, the bare steel underneath can rapidly rust if exposed to moisture/high humidity.

 

Those codes are typically "the same" as P0A80, just with higher threshold values. ie, a "minor" voltage difference for a certain amount of time will set a P0A80, but having a greater voltage difference (for longer?) sets P30xx, "battery block xx becomes weak". The exact criteria are "Toyota's intellectual property".

If your repair works, then great. Experience of many forum members seems to indicate that it most often doesn't.

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