That's definitely been up north or something Why are wheeling and clean it up and see what you got it's bearing just has to press in and not be sloppy or fit in there snugly and not be sloppy doesn't have to look pretty I wouldn't reuse that just because the way it looks but then I moved out of the North a long time ago
Using that knuckle, the bearing would last for somewhere between ~0.01miles to ~30Kmiles. If you keep it, make sure you add me as a beneficiary to your health insurance. The machined bearing surface provides support for the bearing. With that surface pitted/"worn", the bearing would "move around" in the knuckle. Fatigue would eventually happen, then failure. For a good example of how much stress/force is put on wheel bearings, just read about the people ended up using a POS fake/clone wheel bearing, and how they have to replace the wheel bearing every 3-6 months. Buy any bearing part directly from a Dealership, or play Russian Roulette. Yes, people do "win" playing Russian Roulette with parts. Does that make them smart, or lucky? There are some new knuckles on ebay, going for steal. Search for: 2009 Knuckle Prius If you buy one, make sure the bearing fits snugly in the knuckle. Imho, even a fake/clone knuckle (if they exist), with proper machine surfaces, would likely be fine (for non track/race cars). If you think the car has ~10+ years left in it, then buy the Dorman part for ~$200, from Rockauto. I don't know why Amazon and RockAuto are so much higher. Good Luck!
Wait a minute out here where I am these these 04 to '09s or what have you are plentiful front ends are sitting there ready to be picked apart most of them not even have damage in the front ends and this is the southeast United States We don't really have rust and rotten all that carrying on so there's some salvage yards in Georgia USA that are so large and have so many Priuses they go for a mile in one row so I don't think there'll be too much of a parts problem if people really want to look The seller's on eBay some of these places are in Conyers Georgia remember that name junk yards down there are huge folks I'm telling you they're so big you could go down there and walk around for weeks and not cover the whole place look online you'll see they have pictures online good luck . I've never seen such bad alum oxidation on a vehicle like this.but
Not unusual for aluminum parts in close contact with steel (then exposed to road salt and water). Just scrape - wire brush (remove) the corrosion where the bearing assembly will touch. Once "cleaned" (it ain't gotta be perfect), I put a healthy coating of antiseize (or bearing grease) inside the bore of the knuckle before installing the new bearing. If the bolts look ok, then I put some loctite blue on them and torque to spec. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
The part is trashed if you dont have the money to, or dont want to buy a new knuckle. What do you think your friendly neighborhood mechanic would tell you if their shop dropped the bearing and saw what you saw when you snapped the pic attached above !
I mean to me it's only totally trashed if the bearing after cleaning won't stay in its seat properly and has out of spec tolerance as far as the fit in that race. So if you're within spec and it fits well let it rip other than that you should be able to get the knuckle or arm assembly for near nothing I have them laying on the floor here with new bearings lower ball joints and all that fitted to them so when I go to change one out all the new stuff is attached to it shove it on the car bolted up put the wheel back on and go so I have two of these for each series of car the generation 2 and the generation 3 so when I'm ready to swap out struts bearings arms lower ball joints most of it's in a sub assembly ready to go . It's just easier for maintenance and vehicle service to do it this way.
Eric South main removing Prius bearing and cleaning knuckle 9 minute mark Igor beating the hell out of the knuckle and cleaning mounting surface 4 minute mark Not sure I would want to reuse the knuckle the way he's been banging on it for 25 minutes. Lots of knuckles in the desert south salvage yards for $40-50. Or your local salvage, pick the relatively rust free versions. @UNCLBONZ after cleaning his knuckle with a wire brush, unfortunately he didn't have a before photo. The dreaded front wheel bearing howl | Page 2 | PriusChat Hub and bearing doesn't just sit in the knuckle, its also supported by the 4 bolts through the knuckle.
@alftoy bout 20 years ago I had an 94 dodge intrepid driver side shaft with a bad CV - stuck to the hub. 8:38 in your linked video. youtu.be/RRYf2oW0p-k?t=525 I worked on the shaft for two weeks off and on with hand tools heat and a maul, beating on it. Called a dealer that I used for parts and asked if the mechanics had any tricks for getting the stuck shaft out. I could hear the guy on the phone ask a guy in the shop my question and heard in the background the guy in the shop laughing. I'm thinking "Oh Sheet"! long story shortened a bit, I sprayed marks on the shock and knuckle mounts. pulled the knuckle and shaft out and asked the local truck fleet service if he could press the shaft out of the knuckle for me and they said sure. When I went to pick up my pressed out knuckle and shaft, the mechanic/desk clerk told me it took everything their 40 ton press had and when it let loose he said it sounded like a shotgun blast. Passenger side took me 20 minutes of actual work plus the day at fleet service to have it pressed out.
Not sure the bearing would move around. The hub bearing is also held in place via 4 bolts through the knuckle. As in this post.
The bolts are not a support device for the hub. Bolts are not designed to withstand shear forces like that. The bolt holes are not an interference fit for a bolt shank. The bolts keep the hub clamped to the knuckle (tension force, as designed) to allow the knuckle and seating surface (interference fit) to do its job of locating the hub and withstanding the vertical shear forces. The seating surface for the hub/bearing IS important but it doesn't have to be perfect. Excessive play in the seat clearance will allow the hub to move around, eventually shearing the bolts. IF testing this is desired, I recommend you grind off the center portion of your wheels and just let the lug nuts support the tire/car. See how long it takes for the lugs to crack and a wheel to break off.
True, common sense dictates a friction fit and the bolts holding it in place. Grind off the center portion? Not akin to removing the bolts and see how long the hub stays in place. C'mon Jim, a little common sense please. I probably could've said "also held in place" to be more specific.
Huh? That's not what he said at all. Reread what he said. He said it correctly and concisely. I would've gone more off track, and without a tight center interference fit, I would've talked about the flexing/torsion at the bolt mount points, and the flexion in the bearing body itself. It's likely that one of those areas would be the cause of the failure. Imho, mu best, pull it from my *** guess, is that the flexion in the bearing body would cause premature bearing wear. And, the bearings would fail first. Machining surfaces is expensive. Machining round holes is even more expensive. The inside of the knuckle wasn't machined so that it would look nice. It was machined to very tight tolerances. Also, fwiw, with a pitted machined surface in the knuckle, there would be less heat transfer from the bearing to the knuckle. Therefore, for long drives (or speeds above ~90MPH), the bearing would heat up. That would cause bearing wear. How long would the bearings last? That's very dependent on the driving conditions. For only city driving, it might not have any effect. For 100mile+ highway drives every day, it would definitely have "some" effect on bearing wear.
I decided to just replace both knuckles with new Dorman units. The other side wasn’t much better. I got new bearings, ball joints, struts, tie tods etc, may as well get new knuckles. I guess I’m accustomed to the iron knuckles on other cars that don’t wilt like these aluminum units do.
I've never noticed the hub-to-knuckle interface being an interference fit. With a new hub and knuckle, if I'm not mistaken, it's a slip fit. Then the corrosion grabs it and makes it a bear to get out.
More accurate, yes. Let's just go with "not flopping around like a fish out of water". I haven't worked on one yet, where I haven't had to tap it into place with a hammer or pull it in with the bolts, even after cleaning. But, I don't typically deal with the amount of corrosion our northern friends experience.
