Hybrid battery is out, anything need swapped to new one?

Yes, quite a few items need to be swapped over. They may not want or allow you to work on a high voltage battery in their parking lot. Especially if you show up without proper protective equipment. (High voltage rubber safety gloves for instance)

You could spend an hour in the parking lot trying to figure out what you need to swap over. It's be better if you prep if all ahead of time.

I work on hybrids for a living.
Off the top of my head, here are some of the items you will need to swap over
- entire electronics end of the battery (computer, contactors, etc)
- 3 bolts that hold electronics end of battery (2 on one side, 1 on the other)
- 3 nuts that hold electronics end of battery case in place
- 1 wider-flanged nut that holds ground cable
- 2 bolts that hold fuse holder in place
- black plastic assembly that clips on top of battery near electronics end
- 2 rubber vent tubes
- 1 whitish vent tube junction
- 1 metal case end plate
- 1 bolt that holds on end plate
- 1 whitish small rectangular clip that holds on the end plate
- 1 long black rubbery/plastic piece that protects the sharp edges of the pack when assembled.

Do not turn in your core until you have fully assembled the new battery. You will be very sorry if they send back your core with pieces you need to complete the job, and you end up having to pay money for parts you have away.

Lastly, please use an inch-pound torque wrench to properly tighten the nuts on the battery and contactor posts. Don't be lazy and simply try to guess. An inch-pound torque wrench will cost you under $30. These are high voltage connections. You don't want to have them overtightened or undertightened.

 

The picture shows the wires on the end ha going loose. The triangular-ish computer end is definitely missing.
Search for magid 00 high voltage gloves o. Amazon should get you some results. I also get leathers just to protect them from getting cut.

 

They will inspect it.
Make sure to send it like you received it.
Wrap wire connectors.
Remove positive lead
Remove negative lead.
Write year, make, model, and odometer reading on case. (I usually put it on a piece of tape). Or they may just have you report it to them.
Be sure black battery module post covers are on.

 

@ericbecky Do you happen to remember if the lower air dam also needs to be swapped over to a replacement? I installed an OEM replacement but I don't remember if it included a lower air dam (it did not include the upper one). You and other folks on the forums mentioned needing to swap the upper air dam ("black plastic assembly that clips on top of battery near electronics end") on top of the battery. But I'm not sure about the lower one (underneath on the same side).

 

Hmm, I don't recall a lower air dam. do you have a photo of the part? I also don't recall swapping out anything that looks like the air dam on the underside.

 

Most prudent would be to just resign yourself to a second trip, to return your old battery. Think of it as shake-down cruise for the new battery?

typically that’ll be a 1/4” drive torque wrench. And yeah there’s some good cheap ones. Tekton for one. Torque values should be in attached.

There’s lots of made-in-China options; see mine is “Titan”…