The overhead light switch, the switch above the dash, in our 2017 Prime has retired. It's time to replace it. Does anyone know how to get to the switch to get the old one out and the new one in?
Can't speak to a Prime directly, but often there's not much to those switches, other than a springy copper piece that slides, and so not much that really can go wrong with them that's very hard to set right. Again, I don't know if that's true in a Prime.
In my 1985 Toyota Corolla LE, the upholstery guy fried out/broke the dome lamp when he was changing the roof upholstery which was hanging on my head. He did an excellent job otherwise. I replaced both the lamp/switch assembly and bulb. On that car, it was very easy. Subscribe to TIS for a day and download the instructions. Is that one of the left/right map-light switches or the dome-light switch that turns on both map lights?
Toyota Technical Information System, $20 for a two day subscription. I'll do it. The trick with the switch is getting the plastic parts off...in one piece...that surround the switch. Putting in a new switch likely will be easy once I get access to it.
Yeah, I subscribed to them a few times and downloaded several sections of the repair manual. The last time I did that was when I removed and reinstalled my rear bumper cover.
If you mean the three-position light switch in the map lamp assembly (roof console box assembly), I’m not sure this is available separately as a service part; Figure 81-21, Interior Lamp, lists only the complete assemblies, part number 81208-47200-B0, with telematics (“SOS” button), or 81208-47070-B0, without. The Repair Manual (more info) covers removal and installation of the assembly, but it’s not difficult. The assembly is secured by four clips, and you use a molding remover—identified in the manual as Toyota 09061-1C340, equivalent to KTC AP201-W (page in Japanese), but any similar tool would do—to pry it out. Current editions of the Manual recommend precautions against electrostatic discharge (ESD) when handling the assembly, with a wrist strap and anti-static mat grounded to the car. This wasn’t mentioned in earlier editions, so I imagine it was added due to warranty claims experience; an automotive assembly such as this would usually have been designed for ESD immunity.
I just fixed this by following the youtube video with ID# ETv0WX4BsX0 (can't post links sorry) and also squeezed the contacts a little to apply more pressure, and replaced the dielectric grease. For $198 cheaper it's worth a try. If that doesn't work or you don't want to mess with it, I also have a whole map lamp unit I bought off eBay that I won't be using, happy to sell cheaper than anywhere else.
