Inverter Pump Replacement Sounds like it is straining

Did the coolant level go down for that inverter If it did fill it back up to where it's supposed to be and watch it again when it comes on it'll bleed all the air out and it'll stabilize you wanted to stabilize it the full mark

 

Is it a Toyota pump? Hope so aftermarkets suck.

Does not sound good. Sounds like the pump is shorted. Did it stop making noise if so it has blown the AM2 fuse in the black fuse box under the hood.

Did you bleed the system?

You need to hook a clear hose to that bleeder valve and put the other end back in the reservoir under the fluid. Open the bleeder valve and run it topping the reservoir off as you go along till you see no more air bubbles trans versing the hose. Then you know it is air lock free.

This is a very easy bleed system.

 

To be honest usually the inverter pump doesn't really airlock because the pump can be on moving whatever's in the hose pretty much at any time so it doesn't tend to airlock I've never even used the bleeder sticking there in the front of the inverter to bleed the inverter system because the pump does it for you automatically All you have to do is fill the reservoir and put the car on. And when the pump seems to be running and you don't really see any agitation reach down and squeeze the hose or hose is on the pump and see if you feel the pump and coolant moving it's not really all that smartly. The pump I replaced the inverter pump with moves the water or coolant very smartly but I've never seen the pancake inverter pump really move the water very fast not even the pump I started out with when I got the car.

 

Your process is wrong.

Shut the car off.

Take the inverter coolant reservoir cap off.

Dump all the coolant by removing the dump bolt.

With dump bolt removed take a garden hose and stick it in the reservoir. Flush out the inverter loop the flow out of the dump hole should look exactly like the velocity of the flow in the reservoir. Depending on your hose pressure you may have to adjust the flow into the reservoir to achieve this without over flowing..

Shut hose off let it drain. Install dump bolt. Install Toyota LLC till reservoir is full. Turn on the car.

The level will drop a little continue topping off till steady.

With a clear hose attached to the bleeder valve put the hose end back into the reservoir under the fluid. Open the valve.

You will see alot of bubbles traverse the hose. Keep topping off the reservoir till no more bubbles. No bubbles close the bleed valve.
Remove the hose put the cap back on the invert reservoir and drive away.

The next day before you start the car check the coolant level in the inverter reservoir. Top off if needed.

Check level every day for a while. Takes a while for it to settle in.

I have done this 3 times over its 15 year life no issuse very simple. OEM fact pump lasts about 60-70000 miles in my car.

If you bought a new "Toyota" pump on eBay and it was significantly cheaper than its online price of $100 + shipping then I can almost guarantee its a fake. Use Olathe Toyata parts online. There great and the real part.

 

... Beware of counterfeit parts even from "reputable" sources like Amazon.[/QUOTE]

Are you measuring both inverter coolant temp's with a scanner or app? What are the F or C readings?
De-pressurize the coolant tank via the cap to lower the inverter's solid-state switching temp's.

 

Are you measuring both inverter coolant temp's with a scanner or app? What are the F or C readings?
De-pressurize the coolant tank via the cap to lower the inverter's solid-state switching temp's.[/QUOTE]
In the Gen 2 with the knot factory pump moving the fluid even on the hottest day this past summer in the hundred neither of the two hoses coming from my inverter loop wherever warm enough for me to not hold on to for as long as I wanted to so I would say under 104° not even the temperature of my hot tub after a good run down the highway or what have you 30 minutes of driving in the 100° heat maybe a tad longer and neither of the hoses are warm enough that I have to let go of them so I figured that's quite reasonable before when the pump was failing and wasn't moving like it was supposed to 30 minutes under the same condition would yield about 140 or so something like that I could hold on to it but not for a real long time

 

Correct

The inverter coolant when working at max performance is about 100 degrees cooler than engine coolant. Lives around 90 degrees.

But….on a G2 there is a huge heat soak issue when you shut the car since the engine coolant and inverter coolant are in the same box the rad there’s major heat soak so when you start the car back up the inverter coolant gas to get over that soak differential before it can cool the
Inverter and trans.
I have done a lot of thermal investigations on this loop and so has Toyota they saw that and fixed it in the G3 and beyond by making the inverter coolant and engine coolant in separate boxes. Much improved cooling and the g3 needs it with its much more powerful mgs and inverter.