Corroded terminals, bus bars, and voltage sensor wire harness

All those wires and connectors the orange ones can be cleaned up with CRC electrical cleaner or battery terminal cleaner it turns yellow or something when it mixes with battery acids and the like it'll clean those up real nice The nickel plated bus bars are okay they do pretty well you should get the nuts that go with them a relatively cheap like $23 a set or something they do okay if your daughter has a rock tumbler you can put the copper ones in the rock tumbler with some fine rock or media and that will clean those up nicely but I think I'd still prefer the nickel plate a jobbies and they look real good too but you need to make sure you get those orange wires with the silver plated holes drilled in them that connect to the mains and all that cleaned up good Make sure their connections are good and not frayed etc . And wire it all back up see what ya get . But do it quickly few days etc

 

The longer it sits the worse things get

 

Looks entirely normal... The battery chemistry technology Toyota uses is 40 years old and 40 years ago corrosion with car batteries was an issue. Primary point of failure is where your photo's wiring plugs into the battery ECU. Open up the ECU and clean out the corrosion growing on that plug on the inside to avoid P3000 related error code shut downs.

 

Agree with cleaning up the wiring to the ECU. Also cleaning up all the connections (bus bars and nuts) can only help. How old is your 12v battery? And keep in mind your traction battery is 10 years old, you might be on borrowed time…

 

Yeah it'll take a while for your mileage to go up course without knowing what the battery is trying to do but if you took it out on a decent run somewhere where you can be out in the county not necessarily on the interstate your car should tell you if that battery is charging pretty well that's bouncing around from empty to full and acting silly then not so much you don't have the Ah you should

 

Post the Dr Prius result. The bar graph showing blocks, with volts and ohms.

 

How old do you think those error codes are? How long do they take to come back after you clear them?

 

Yeah... The first time you check out a car's error codes there's usually ones in there that are glitches from long ago that are no longer a problem. Let us know what comes back? Also learn about how to restore battery capacity: FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) | Hybrid Automotive You can build your own gear to do this for $100: Build Hybrid Battery Maintenance Gear For Under $100 | PriusChat

 

It's really simple and as usual PriusChat has too many cooks in the kitchen confusing everything...

All you need is a high voltage trickle charge that feeds electricity to a 220v DC system at near 1/2 amp... Then use light bulbs to deep cycle/discharge to restore lost capacity 3 times after each full charge & balance. Any questions you have, just post them here and I'll walk you through it!

 

Yeah... High Voltage is no joke and proceeding with caution is the correct approach. However, once you get one built, you'll look back on it and realize it was no big deal and lack of experience in building one was the only real challenge.

 

Hi @Matthew Holloway, I just started down this path myself, and should be completely done by Sunday. See What type of connector does a Prolong Charger/Discharger use? | PriusChat

Do you live in Oahu? You are welcome to stop by and see my completed build. You are also welcome to borrow my charger/discharger to see if it works for you, before investing in building one yourself, or buying a pre-built prolong setup. All you have to do is build your own harness, less than $20 in parts.

 

I'm in Manoa, right behind Punahou School. Let me finish up charging up my Prius this weekend, then, hopefully, I won't be needing my setup for another 6 months, and you can borrow it after. You'll probably need a week anyway to source your the parts for the harness, since shipping to Hawaii takes forever. Do you need help with it? It's pretty straightforward, just a cable with a female Ideal Disconnect (from Homedepot) on one end, and ring terminals on the other. I also highly suggest an inline fuse holder with a 2A DC fuse as close as possible to the positive battery terminal. The hardest part was actually getting the lengths correct so it fits neatly.

Just watch my progress on the other thread to see when I'm done, and message me when you have finished building the harness.