If it isnt the bearing... what is it???

It's a sealed bearing assembly so over tightening it unless it's severely overtightened. Shouldn't really hurt too much is also a pretty big nut. I can't imagine what happens if you jack the front wheels off the ground and let the tires rotate or drive the car with the front end up in the air does it still make the noise?. I mean some of this stuff can be pretty difficult to diagnose but maybe you can record it I don't know both my Gen 2's with 300 plus thousand they creek and groan when the suspension rises and lowers acceleration and deceleration. But that's all struts and maybe end links I'm trying to hold out to see if the wheel bearings would go bad because I like to do wheel bearing struts and end links all at the same time so there's no reason to take the front end apart again pretty much you can also put inner and outer tie rod ends on the rack or replace the rack at that time if it's deemed necessary and that pretty much completes your whole front end if I can do that at one time it's a great thing

 

CV joints are noisy when turning one direction, but not the other. More of a pulsation noise though.

 

A different wheel bearing. They are ventriloquists. Many stories of replacing the wrong one.

Sometimes somebody has to use a set of chassis ears (name of tool) to work out which one it really is.

 

Usually I do the axle as set always. I've never replaced just one. Even cars that I work on I always convinced the customer friend to just do them in pairs it's silly not to going to have the car apart jacked up anyway might as well hit the two front or the two rear

 

I have had "no doubt" about which bearing was noisy too many times over the years. I gave up trying to ID a bad bearing from just listening in the driver's seat.

I use Chassis Ears (remote microphone system) during a road test, spin the wheels by hand on a lift, "drive" the car on a lift & listen for noise or feel for vibration, or have a helper stick a head out the window during a road test.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Another vote for Chassis Ears. I had a bearing where none of the familiar tricks could identify the bad one (didn't run measurably hot, didn't feel loose, didn't spin roughly with the corner jacked up and the weight off, noise didn't change in the predicted way when cornering), but a short drive with Chassis Ears identified it in seconds.

 

As recounted in #7, the common idea that you can identify the failing bearing according to how it sounds when you turn corners is anything but dependable. It can give you the complete wrong idea.

 

Hello Ocean-State person, and fellow New Englander!
I can save you a lot of money and time.
Instead of buying more similar bearings, just send the money directly to me - I take PayPal! ;-)

Fwiw, buying wheel bearings, and many other automotive parts, from ANYWHERE other than directly from a dealership, is like playing Russian Roulette with 90% of the chambers filled.

Code:

https://www.autoserviceworld.com/carsmagazine/counterfeit-bearings-seized-at-toronto-airport/

https://www.worldtrademarkreview.com/global-guide/anti-counterfeiting-and-online-brand-enforcement/2019/article/counterfeit-automotive-parts-increasingly-putting-consumer-safety-risk


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVA4RYql9KU
Toyota Counterfeit parts EXPOSED!
Feb 6, 2021
The Car Care Nut


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpDJNDb6b9A
Don't Get Burned Buying Counterfeit Ford Motorcraft Parts!
Feb 14, 2020
FordTechMakuloco

I suggest that people go, in person, to their local dealership.

Fwiw, your local parts store isn't any better.
First, the knowingly sell cheap garbage that has a high return rate.
Second, "the company gets 'taken/fooled' by 'unknowingly' buying counterfeit parts". LMAO!
The States and Federal government has stopped suing the big automotive parts stores for selling counterfeit parts, so that every court in the world would be backlogged for 100 years with those cases. Iirc, they stopped the constant law suits around the 90's, when the States and Federal Government decided there were better usages to spend their limited resources.


Consider how much you paid in parts and labor already (and travel, gas, lost time, etc). Verses, getting a part directly from a dealer, and having an OEM part, that will very easily last another 10+years.

Your money, your choice.
Good Luck!

 

You're more than likely need a wheel alignment check, if spindle was detached from strut to remove wheel bearing...

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Not really. Smart people are continuous learners. Assumptions get you every time. Or at least some of the time. Bet it won't happen to you again.

 

I normally order from RockAuto, RockAuto drop ships, they do not stock most parts. As in, they send order to Timkin/SKF/NSK etc. and those companies do the shipping.

If I know the OEM supplier that's what I order from RockAuto.

 

That's incorrect, Goggle.
Iirc, RockAuto has never stocked any parts, nor has had any warehouses.

 

Where did I say RA and warehouse? What is drop ship? Do not stock?