Car stalled while driving tons of codes

have you cleaned the hybrid battery cooling fan?

checked inside the battery for corrosion?

 

You have a clump of codes about one thing, and another code about another thing.

The P0101, P0171, P3190, P3191, and P0A0F are a clump.

The first four are from the engine control module (ECM), and the last one is from the power management control ECU.

P3190 and P3191 are about the engine producing too little power (one is about too little power in general, the other is specific to starting attempts, and says it never really made enough power to be considered a successful start). The P0171 is about the fuel-air mixture being too lean (which can be one easy reason for too little power from the engine), and the P0101 is about a discrepancy between the amount of power the engine's being asked for, and the amount of power you'd expect it to make from the amount of air going in. The P0A0F is just the power management control ECU saying "wait, what? I asked the ECM for some power and something must be wrong over there."

So all of that stuff indicates general gasoline-engine poor-power issues, and the good news is mechanics have had to troubleshoot those kinds of things for gasoline engines for decades, and don't need to be hybrid geniuses or anything. Should probably start by going back very carefully over all the recent work done on MAF, EGR valve, throttle body, spark plugs, etc., with close attention to all the electrical connections, and all the joints in the intake system where unmetered air might be leaking in. This kind of problem can be tedious to find, but can often be fixed for not much money when found.

The other code, P0A80, is an unrelated thing. The traction battery in the back of the car is going. That's a more straightforward problem to solve, but the solution does involve a sum of money.

One thing to be careful of, while troubleshooting engine no-starts: each start attempt uses some charge from the traction battery. It's hard to recover once that gets too low. Also, if it has been brought very low as a result of many start attempts, that might have exposed any developing weakness in the battery and brought on the P0A80 a little sooner than it might have been seen otherwise.

 

How are you judging that? Do you have a scan tool that can show you the actual traction battery state of charge? If so, what is the current state of charge?

 

is the battery still under warranty?

 

Ah. Yikes. I'm not sure how to interpret the bars—I believe the whole range of the MID's bar graph is essentially zoomed in to cover the intended range of charge states, from maybe 40% to 80% or so, actual state of charge. So I prefer to get the SoC figure directly from the ECU.

But if Dr. Prius is showing it as 15% ... that's lower than I ever dared to let one get.

Might want to see if you can line up a high voltage charger somewhere, in case it ends up being needed.

 

Well, that's a walking, talking P0171 right there.

Had it been running ok before, then suddenly changed?

I remember a bulletin, T-SB-0041-15, about updating the ECM firmware to be less likely to cause an accidental backfire that pops hoses off the manifold. It's applicable to the 2012 and 2013 v, and after the update, the ECM calibration shown in Techstream should be at least 34725200 (for a v).

If that's what happened, then the purge vacuum switching valve, 25860-37020, probably also needs to be replaced.

I should go get that firmware update myself. I keep procrastinating....

 

I do believe that is the purge vacuum switching valve right there, so what happened was probably what's described in the TSB. I'm glad the car started right up, but that valve may have taken some damage; the TSB would have you replace it, in addition to updating the firmware.

 

Firmware update should be covered by the TSB at no charge but your time.

 

I've never known that something in a TSB is done for free. Recalls and warranty extensions, sure.

When I have a firmware update because I saw it in a TSB, usually they charge about an hour at their shop rate.

You can help them out a bit if you show up without a lot of stuff in the hatch area. Their procedures require them to get to the 12 volt battery back there and attach a backup power source so nothing can make the update fail mid-flash.

If you have extra accessories wired to the battery that they don't know about, it's good to make sure those won't come on and draw power during the update.

Since you had the kablooey happen already, the TSB work should also include replacing that purge valve because it may have taken damage. If beyond the applicable warranty coverage, they'll also charge for that small part.