VVT Oil Filter? Poor MPG'S?

I am also curious - I haven't yet seen mentioned what SIZE hex head is required? I received the P0011 error and figured this would be a simple way to troubleshoot the issue, but the hex bolt I am looking at seems very rounded out on the inside. This car has only ever been dealer serviced, and I can't remember them ever mentioning changing this filter, so I am wondering how it could have become so rounded out. I tried fitting an H7 in it, but it's way too loose, and H8 seemed like maybe it might fit but rotated freely when I turned it with my hands, and an H9 was way too big. Or is the hex bolt deeper than I can see and I really just need to jam one of these sizes further in?

 

Hi Driver! Yeah...I did this not long ago and posted the results on the Red Bullet forum pages. I should have posted it here too, I guess I forgot. Below is my post and picts so you don't have to go hunting for it. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

"Hey all. Well...as promised, i got the VVTI filter changed and just wanted to share with everyone how it went and some tips. Sorry for the delay in getting this out there to yas.
As you probably already know....8mm hex socket works best. The shorter the better. The hex part of mine was long...so i went to the grinder and shaved that baby down...wasnt going to get this far to just be stopped by a hex head length. We take no prisoners. Lol. So...what i found most helpful when changing out the VVTI and the filter was to remove 3 things:

1. the top right clip that holds the electrical line immediate to the right of the oil dip stick. It's attached to the air filter and thats easy to clip off. Squeeze the ends and gently pull out.
2. The clip to the left of the dip stick, which is a little tricky. Just get a tiny flathead screwdriver to get to the bottom end of the clamp and push it up so u get the bottom released, then just get the top clamp.
3. Remove the screw holding the oil dipstick in place. It's to the left of the stick. WD40 it a little because mine was tough. Once removed u can move the dipstick just enough to get to the VVTI and filter much easier...just done move the dipstick too much.

The VVTI filter was not wanting to be bothered at all. Lol. Spray it with WD40 just a little, let it soak in. I used a long handled, fixed socket wrench and attached the hex to that. Then i used the back end opening of a bigger wrench to just get more leverage to pry it loose. I advise a breaker bar or rig something like i did to give u leverage. When loose, just be careful as u take the screw out b/c the filter may not be attached securely to the inside of the screw like it should be. Mine was immaculate, but i changed it and the washer anyway. The washer was stuck on the screw, so i just sharpened a small flathead and preyed it off, cleaned the inside of screw good, put new washer on, stuck new filter in the screw, then carefully got it back in its home. Reconnected everything and good to go.
Hope that helps u guys if u wanna do this. Really rather simple...just tight spots and ya gotta go slow to avoid dropping things. Lol. "

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You might've been looking for this post : VVT Oil Filter? Poor MPG'S? | Page 2 | PriusChat

Maybe @edthefox5 can comment on the torque spec used.

 

Yes, excellent! Great writeup CSuirp!

Thank you both!

 

No prob Driver. Glad it helped ya! Thanks SFO too.

 

This thread guided me down the filter replacement and I wanted to contribute my experience and thank everyone that contributed to it.

2008 Prius - 211,000 miles - I bought this a month or so ago and I've done the following work to it:

- Complete hybrid battery reconditioning (1 bad module replacement and then two weeks reconditioning using two 8 port RC chargers/dischargers)

- New aftermarket cat and resonator pipe
- New upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced cheap aftermarket spark plugs (they were new) with the original OEM plugs
- New MAF sensor
- New engine air and cabin air filter
- Cleaned the intake

At this point in the process, I went from red triangles of death, battery codes, engine codes, 28-32 mpg at best, erratic high idling, etc. to now 45-47 mpg, car runs very well, Dr Prius app tells me the battery health is 90% + - New Condition

However, I still felt like the engine didn't have the power it needed when I needed it. I wasn't sure because I've never owned a Prius so I went down the path of this little tiny filter replacement.

This filter replacement really restored power to the Prius, I can definitely tell a difference which blows my mind really. Ive never even heard of such a thing before this car and I've worked on LOTS of cars in my lifetime.

What I wanted to share was mostly around the 8mm Hex tool that is needed for removal. The previous posts talk about using a quality tool and not a Harbor Freight one. That is the most important thing to do with this process, WHICH I DID NOT DO. So the first thing that happened was it slipped when I attempted to remove it and jacked up the bolt.

I then pulled out my e-Star / Star bit kit that I have for my BMW's and found that the T50H bit fits PERFECTLY for this bolt. In fact, I wish I would have know that before because it has much more BITE to it than the Hex.

This is the kit


This is what happened to the bolt


Comparing the two bits


Side view


Look at how dirty / nasty this was. I bought a brand new one from Amazon for $10


Again, thanks for everyone's input on this!

 

So this is worth doing on a gen 2 prius with 190,000k and no symtpoms?

 

Asking same question here. Location if yes. Thank you

 

The post with the Gen3 filter location (below) doesn't offer easy access. Hoping @Mendel Leisk can update us with any new knowledge.

 

Also, be careful and observe the torque specs when removing/reinstalling the cam bearing cap.

 

Hey guys I just ordered the filter 15678-21010 and metal washer 90430-14008 to do this job but I’m a bit confused by talk of an O-ring — is there an O-ring that needs replacing too? Does it come with the filter? If not, does anyone know a part #? Thanks!

 

Observation/comment: These numbers might be different by model-year?

Toyota parts website says my 2006 uses:
*Washer #90430-14009, which they call a ‘gasket’. (90430-14008 shows as a ‘drain plug’)
*Filter #15678-21010
*Plug (w 8mm hex inset) #90341-14013
*VVT #15330-21011

I don’t remember anybody posting these screen shots of the Toyota parts pages, so I thought I might contribute these here. Have fun!

 

HELLO!

A quick question: What oil do you use? How many miles did the car had when you changed this filter?

 

Three videos to document removing and replacing the VVT solenoid and the screen filter in a Generation 2 Prius.

Removing filter:

Installing filter:

Remove and replace VVT solenoid:

By the way, I noticed a *definite* improvement in acceleration response with the new parts. I must have needed it! Already changed both batteries with OEM, have still been chasing performance.

 

The outcoming filter looked pretty good to me. What was that mileage?

 

Mileage is just short of 139,000. It does look real good, but I had the part and so replaced it.

I wonder if the fact it wasn’t attached to the plug and just kind of floating in there means if it was being bypassed and that’s why it looked so good? There was some gritty looking residue on the open end of the filter shown in the video that concerned me a bit. Was glad I had that pick-tool, for sure!

 

I'm pretty sure if good oil has been used, and changed at reasonable intervals, that could stay looking that good for a long long time.